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downshift


Oct 7, 2001, 8:32 AM
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Has anyone climbed any of the following in Ontario  (North_America: United_States: Wyoming: Western_Wy_: Upper_Bridge_Bands: Hideout_Wall)
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In trying to add more to the Ontario route section I been thinking there a few places that have the potential for being good for climbing. But, since I haven't been to them in ages I can't remember the quality of them.

Here they are:
- Ball's Fall of Beamsville
- Rockwood just South of Geulph (top of geulph line)
- Anywhere in the bronte creek valley
- Anywhere along the Escarpment around Grimsby
- Around the old Rock crusher (now torn down)in Dundas

Anyone have any ideas???



[ This Message was edited by: downshift on 2001-10-13 08:04 ]


fiend


Oct 7, 2001, 1:59 PM
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I've done some wandering around the Dundas cliff line and most of it looked pretty chossy, short and glass strewn.

I'm definitely interested in any new areas around here though, let us know if you check any of these places out.


downshift


Oct 7, 2001, 2:07 PM
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I posted what was in the guide for Dundas (Spencer Gorge area) I have climbed there once but that was five years ago. It was small but not too bad. It's a good afternoon out.





[ This Message was edited by: downshift on 2001-10-07 14:10 ]


c_plante


Oct 8, 2001, 11:05 PM
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There's a few spots along the bruce trail in the dundas area that are okay, if short. For the most part it's overgrown, and unfortunately eroding. If we want to climb some of these spots we'll either have to do it quick, or conserve it somehow. Between Highway 6 and the Strawberry House there's a few spots.


downshift


Oct 9, 2001, 5:10 PM
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c_plante:

Is Dundas worth an exploritory trip??? What about Rockwood... Have you been there lately?



downshift


Oct 9, 2001, 5:21 PM
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Had another thought about spots. I heard there was a small gorge around Brantford or Paris Ontario that has a nice waterfall in it. (It's featured in a Tea Party video) Has anyone been there... Is it climbable?

[ This Message was edited by: downshift on 2001-10-09 18:11 ]


c_plante


Oct 10, 2001, 12:22 AM
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Downshift:

Dundas is worth the exploration, I mean, it is in a big valley after all.

As for the paris waterfalls I've been there, there's a lot of rock pretty much everywhere, and a lot of water. There's also a lot of old buildings worth buildering, and there's quite a bit of rock surrounding the waterfalls. Worth checking.


passthepitonspete


Oct 10, 2001, 12:22 AM
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John Kaandorp is the guy to contact re. routes in the Dundas valley. He lived in Greensville for many years. He now lives up in Allenford, west of Owen Sound. In the phone book, under him or his wife Christine Mitropolous. He can tell you virtually everything about the area. There is definitely some stuff worth doing! That little crag downstream of Webster's is pretty good!

I am not aware of anything climbable in the Bronte Creek Valley.

JK also did some climbing at Rockwood. I know he put up a climb called "Bermuda Shorts" in June of 1982 when I was (shudder) on my honeymoon in Bermuda. (Thank goodness I'm divorced - I'm now enjoying my post-divorce rennaissance).

You guys should come over to Oakville sometime - lots of climbing slides and notes from our adventures - the ROCC (Roving Ontario Climbing Coalition) circa early 80's.

Cheers, "Pass the Pitons" Pete



c_plante


Oct 10, 2001, 1:08 AM
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Oakville? Downshift and I are in burlington, we climb twiss rock mostly. But hey, I'll climb anywhere that's close.


stewbing


Oct 10, 2001, 5:04 AM
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Where are you thinking in Rockwood? I know a guy that was approached by the Rockwood conservation Park about developing the actual Park, we went down there and the majority of clean rock was way too short to develope, some very cool caves, maybe some bouldering oportunities there not much else.


downshift


Oct 10, 2001, 8:51 AM
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Pete:

I'd be up for an expedition to Oakville anytime. I'd just have to grab a mini van to be incogento.

stewbing:

I was thinking Rockwood would be great for bouldering (especially in the conservation park) I just had no idea if the locals would be receptive to it and if there was anything worth doing. Do you have any beta on some bouldering???

Thanks for the info guys... Do you know of any other places in the area that aren't mentioned in the Route list section of Ontario?

[ This Message was edited by: downshift on 2001-10-10 08:52 ]


stewbing


Oct 10, 2001, 10:16 AM
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Downshift,
I think the Conservation Authority would be receptive, they are the ones who contacted my friend. There is an office on site, usually with a Conservation officer present, run it past them, and I don't think there should be any access issues. No specific beta on bouldering there, there are all kinds of areas to look at though, one specific area is to go past the ruins and follow the path to two large caves that look like they have some real possibilites for bouldering.


c_plante


Oct 10, 2001, 3:13 PM
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hey... is rockwood north of dundas? Because if it is, Downshift we hiked that area the one time, and there were all those old buildings and whatsuch... Um, with the sulfer springs water tap?


downshift


Oct 10, 2001, 5:09 PM
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stewbing,

I guess I'll have to check out Rockwood before the winter hits and get some bouldering in.

c_plante,

Rockwood pretty much at the end of Guelph line way north of Burlington. The sulfer spings water tap, that's Dundas but close to Ancaster.

[ This Message was edited by: downshift on 2001-10-10 17:20 ]


c_plante


Oct 11, 2001, 2:35 AM
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Okay Downshift in that case we should scope out that area around sulfer springs. I seem to recall rock. But then again, lets face it, until you climb out of the golden horeshoe you'll encounter a whole lotta rock


downshift


Oct 11, 2001, 4:50 PM
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I don't remember much around Sulpher springs. Jarek and I scoped it out over the summer and didn't find all too much. But, then again there could be somewhere we missed.


c_plante


Oct 12, 2001, 2:22 AM
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Anywhere else that you can think of?


downshift


Oct 13, 2001, 7:58 AM
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I know there has to be something on the Escarpment that runs parallel to the QEW between Hamilton in Niagra. The guides have a big void of that area and I know there is rock face. We just have to get the time to drive and explore it one afternoon. Oh well, something to do in the future.



[ This Message was edited by: downshift on 2001-10-13 08:03 ]


darkside


Oct 15, 2001, 12:09 AM
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FYI Niagara area.
*Balls Falls. Rock is fractured, unstable and not good for rockclimbing at either the lower or upper falls.
*Grimsby. Beamer Park. Despite looking high when viewed from the QEW, the hill slopes up so only the top is exposed and much of this is loose. Not worth the drive.
*Niagara Glen. A nice spot to boulder
*Campden Crag. Short routes, mostly sport.
*Jordan trestle bridge. Sport routes on remains of a stone train bridge.
Check out www.glenbouldering.com for beta on the last three.

Dundas Valley. This raises a RED FLAG. There is absolutely no climbing allowed on lands owned by the Hamilton Conservation Authority with the exception of that currently being negotiated by the Access Committee. There has been a lot of hard work put into this and much more to be done. Unfortunately most of the cliffline on HCA land is composed of loose, unstable rock so the thrust of maintaining access has been for access to the ice. There are enough alternatives for rock nearby such as Rattlesnake or Kelso. HCA lands are closed to rockclimbing for environmental and liability reasons and this includes the Spencer Gorge Wilderness area so help us to help you, by respecting closures. If in doubt about access, drop me a line and I'll try to clarify things for you.


c_plante


Oct 15, 2001, 12:53 AM
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Hey Darkside, is there a place where all these things are posted? Like some obscure hamilton city website type thing? Just wondering where you heard about that, it's good that you told us before we got caught!

Thanks for the beta


downshift


Oct 15, 2001, 8:50 AM
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Darkside:

How long had Dundas been closed. Now I feel bad I used to climb there alot when I was in high school.

Oh do you know what the link is for the Jordan Tressel Bridge?

Thanks!

[ This Message was edited by: downshift on 2001-10-15 08:53 ]


downshift


Oct 15, 2001, 10:54 AM
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 Darkside:

Never mind about the link to Jordan I found it it's:

http://www.niagara.com/~peaks/newclimb.htm

If anyone know the area / has climb it recently please post it on the route list. Thanks.

[ This Message was edited by: downshift on 2001-10-15 11:46 ]


darkside


Oct 16, 2001, 6:05 PM
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c_plante : I know this stuff because I am on the ACCess Committee and we are in the process of working with the HCA at the moment. There is an access page on the Alpine Club of Canada website which I believe can be linked from the main page or use this link. http://www.climbers.org/section/access.html It is only policies at this time but there are some changes being worked on as the info is somewhat dated. The ACC address is www.climbers.org and sometimes things are posted on the BB. There are some recent developments in access in Ontario so you can always direct queries to myself or another access committee member.

downshift : Don't feel too bad as access has not always been the issue it is today. It is a result of increased numbers, myself included, which is why everyone has to do their bit.

I will try to add the Jordan stuff to the route list if I get time but here is a link for Campden. www.glenbouldering.com/campden.html


downshift


Oct 16, 2001, 7:52 PM
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It's good to see back in the days of climbing Dundas I wasn't breaking any laws... Mind you I was a minor back then so I guess it really wouldn't of matter. I'm really impress with what the Access committe is try to do it give me a new respect for the ACC. I stopped climbing a few years back when I had a really bad experience with the ACC. But, things see to be in better shape now and I really must applaude the intiative the ACC is doing for climbers.

Thanks Darkside

[ This Message was edited by: downshift on 2001-10-16 19:55 ]


passthepitonspete


Oct 16, 2001, 9:05 PM
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There's an interesting looking area to the SW of Meaford - I can't remember what it is called, but the 1:50,000 topo map shows a cliff facing SE. Whether it's a climbable cliff or not, I have no idea. I've never been there, but always wanted to check it out. I'd remember the name if you told me. You guys should find a 1:50000 topo map (Elstone Stationery, NE corner of New and Guelph Line in Burlington - he'll have it in stock) and go check it out. Save the big aid line for me! Cheers, "Pass the Pitons" Pete

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