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jakedatc
Jul 24, 2007, 7:09 PM
Post #26 of 38
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Is there video of Babel? thing does look sick..
When was the last time Dave has been to 45 degree wall? Unfortunately for Daniel he's grown a reputation for inflated grades so he's not the best judge.
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chadcummings
Sep 20, 2007, 4:05 AM
Post #27 of 38
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What about Thrice and Slapshot? they're old school problems that have never be repeated
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Proto
Sep 20, 2007, 8:24 PM
Post #28 of 38
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you hurt...thats free soloing and would get the same yds rating. why are tradnasties posting on the bouldering forums anyway?
dynosore wrote: In reply to: Stack a bunch of v11's and you get a v14. Yet The Diehidral Wall Free goes at 5.14, the difficulty of a single pitch, despite the fact that its 2800' of climbing where most of it is 5.12-5.13. Pretty sure the endurance factor checks in more in the latter As soon as one top boulderer sends "V15", you can be sure another top boulderer will contrive a "V16" If a boulderer did the dihedral wall free, they'd call it V27... |
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rumneydude
Oct 26, 2007, 4:08 AM
Post #29 of 38
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Two years ago I saw and touched the holds of Tonino 78 in Italy... that would be my vote. I don't know if it has had repeats or if the grade has been confirmed, and I did not try it as it is way over my head, but i've also pulled on Dreamtime's (in Switzerland) holds, and Tonino 78 seemed more powerful...
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gobennyjo
Oct 26, 2007, 4:23 AM
Post #30 of 38
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kriso9tails wrote: curt wrote: yanqui wrote: camhead wrote: so, if I do enough v1's in a row, I get a v17, right? Ha. Only if you linked up two hundred and fifty seven different V1s in a row, without touching the ground, and got really, I mean really pumped. In that case you would have a ninja V17. Tim, for fux sake, you'd only have to do 17 V1s in a row to get a V17. You're not so good with math, are you?  Curt Nuh-uh. For every two problems you divide the smaller grade by the larger and add that to the larger grade to get the new one. I swear. 17 V1s would only be around V6.
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kriso9tails
Oct 26, 2007, 9:11 PM
Post #31 of 38
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gobennyjo wrote: kriso9tails wrote: curt wrote: yanqui wrote: camhead wrote: so, if I do enough v1's in a row, I get a v17, right? Ha. Only if you linked up two hundred and fifty seven different V1s in a row, without touching the ground, and got really, I mean really pumped. In that case you would have a ninja V17. Tim, for fux sake, you'd only have to do 17 V1s in a row to get a V17. You're not so good with math, are you? Curt Nuh-uh. For every two problems you divide the smaller grade by the larger and add that to the larger grade to get the new one. I swear. 17 V1s would only be around V6. Wow, so if I climb V0 it is like an udefined rating, so that is like infinity or something, I must be the best climber ever!
Not exactly: V0 is beneath climbing; it's more akin to tripping at the base of a four stair flight and landing on the top step.
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sticky_fingers
Oct 26, 2007, 9:49 PM
Post #32 of 38
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...there's this red problem...at my gym....
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sidepull
Oct 27, 2007, 3:59 AM
Post #33 of 38
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watching the vid of Wheel of Life I was struck by how many opportunities there were for rests - there's a lot of jugs (relatively speaking) on that problem. In contrast, Witness the Fitness doesn't seem to have any place where you could rest until you're out of the cave.
just stirring the coals - the guys at 8a have this all figured out I'm sure.
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Azure
Oct 27, 2007, 4:37 AM
Post #34 of 38
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sticky_fingers wrote: ...there's this red problem...at my gym....
I think I've seen that problem. I heard it was so hard they took it down so no one would die trying it.
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rjtrials
Oct 27, 2007, 2:03 PM
Post #35 of 38
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sidepull wrote: watching the vid of Wheel of Life I was struck by how many opportunities there were for rests - there's a lot of jugs (relatively speaking) on that problem. In contrast, Witness the Fitness doesn't seem to have any place where you could rest until you're out of the cave. just stirring the coals - the guys at 8a have this all figured out I'm sure.
Witness is 35 feet, Wheel is 35 Meters.
I havent done many routes that were that long. I cant imagine climbing horizontal for 5 plus minutes...
RJ
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microbarn
Oct 27, 2007, 3:13 PM
Post #36 of 38
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Doesn't Fred boulder pretty hard?
http://www.rockclimbing.com/...post=1061363#1061363
over at http://8a.nu I found this list:
Grade Name Ascents Crag
8C+ Tonino '78 1 Mont Sibilini
8C+ Country house 1 Vipavska Bela
8C+ Terremer 1 Hueco Tanks
8C+ ?lovek ne jezi se 1 Misja Pec
8C+ Hydrangea 1 Shiobara
8C+ The Wheel Of Life 1 HMC / Grampians
8C+ The Wheel of life 1 Grampians, HMC
8C+ Konec Mira 1 Misja Pec
8C+ MEMENTO 1 Silvretta
since all of them have had only one ascent.....this would imply that no one knows which one is the hardest. Perhaps they are all equal as their grade suggests.
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bootstrapping
Oct 27, 2007, 6:22 PM
Post #37 of 38
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Registered: Jun 17, 2005
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i think we agree that problems can be very different in nature. this applies to routes too.
since ppl grade differently and different areas have different gradings, you would want to look at not only the 8C+ but also the 8C boulders. and sometimes even the 8B+ boulders. ppl disagree about gradings all the time after all. which is fine. climbing should not be about only the grading anyway.
since i unfortunately don't understand metric units and for those in the same boat,
so that ppl don't have to do the conversion:
35 m is about 115 ft
some of those problems in that list have been repeated.
tonino 78, FA by mauro calibani, has been repeated by julien nadiras and antoine vandeputte.
memento, FA by bernd zangerl, has also been repeated by bernhard schwaiger.
the 8a.nu database is not complete. by its very nature, it won't be. (and it has some kinks in it. eg, the wheel of life appears twice on that list.)
there is much hard climbing that is not in the 8a.nu database. not all of the elite climbers maintain a ticklist there. and climbing media, as all media, tends to be somewhat myopic in its reporting. it tends to focus the most on its own nation's climbers, which is understandable. so a lot of notable ascents are not as noticed, and it can be quite hard to get news about them, if one does not make some effort or read multiple languages. i read 1 language. makes it really difficult.
Edit: i don't mean to disparage 8a.nu. it is a good resource. i just wanted to point out that its database won't be complete.
(This post was edited by bootstrapping on Oct 29, 2007, 3:38 PM)
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