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vortenberg


Oct 31, 2007, 8:15 PM
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your hardess 5.9
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Just curious. What is the hardest 5.9 you've led?
Cheers


dudemanbu


Oct 31, 2007, 8:16 PM
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Re: [vortenberg] your hardess 5.9 [In reply to]
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unconquerable crack, 5.9+ ragged mountain, ct.


(This post was edited by dudemanbu on Oct 31, 2007, 8:39 PM)


flint


Oct 31, 2007, 8:22 PM
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Re: [vortenberg] your hardess 5.9 [In reply to]
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Where Lizards Dare. Fortress Wall. 5.9+. Red River Gorge.

From the online guide book:



j-


rjtrials


Oct 31, 2007, 8:58 PM
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Turbo Dog, Foster Falls, TN

5.9++


lucander


Oct 31, 2007, 9:01 PM
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Re: [vortenberg] your hardess 5.9 [In reply to]
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MF at the Gunks. Three distinct hard 5.9 moves and you can't say you did it until you climb at least to the GT.


stymingersfink


Oct 31, 2007, 9:20 PM
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Re: [vortenberg] your hardess 5.9 [In reply to]
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Ionic Bonding 9+ (P1, P2 goes 11a ) in BCC. Pumpy little fucker, the second pitch is actually easier than the first. Still a nice sandbag for that cocky 5.10 leader to be cajoled into.Wink


drfelatio


Oct 31, 2007, 9:23 PM
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Re: [flint] your hardess 5.9 [In reply to]
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flint wrote:
Where Lizards Dare. Fortress Wall. 5.9+. Red River Gorge.

From the online guide book:

[image]http://www.redriverclimbing.com/RRCGuideV2/image/img/lizards.jpg[/image]

j-

I haven't climbed it yet, but Where Lizards Dare is definitely on my to-do list. I haven't heard a single person claiming its 5.9 rating isn't sandbag. Gotta give it up for old-school trad ratings!


stymingersfink


Oct 31, 2007, 9:29 PM
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Re: [stymingersfink] your hardess 5.9 [In reply to]
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stymingersfink wrote:
Ionic Bonding 9+ (P1, P2 goes 11a ) in BCC. Pumpy little fucker, the second pitch is actually easier than the first. Still a nice sandbag for that cocky 5.10 leader to be cajoled into.Wink

Wait, I just realized that this route doesn't count... it's a clip-up installed in '90 by Brian and Jonathon Smoot.

Umm, Trad routes I'd have ta say High Dive 9+, also in BCC. Not really a sandbag though, as standing at the bottom looking up one would ask themself "9+... Well, it is kind of a long second pitch"

Whereas with the first one I mentioned you'd be all "5 bolts??? I can see four of them from the ground and the first pitch is only like 50' "Sly


unreleasedenergy


Oct 31, 2007, 9:52 PM
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Re: [vortenberg] your hardess 5.9 [In reply to]
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Contortionist,
Junkyard Wall, NRG

it spits out people that have climbed it before all the time. its one of those don't-breathe-wrong cruxes. A clean lead is a bit of a crapshoot, governed by humidity and the amount your sweating through the chest jams and chickenwings


vegastradguy


Oct 31, 2007, 11:13 PM
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Re: [unreleasedenergy] your hardess 5.9 [In reply to]
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its a toss up for me....

the upper pitches of Touchstone were burly as hell, but that may have been exhaustion. 5.9 wide forever, as i recall....

Nadia's Nine, a well known sandbag in RR.

Deep Space, a burly ass DNFU chimney system. blow it and you fall 40', bounce off a ledge and then into the void below....


shrug7


Nov 1, 2007, 7:57 AM
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Re: [vortenberg] your hardess 5.9 [In reply to]
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Ant Killer Drapers Bluff, Soill.



Larger pic


(This post was edited by shrug7 on Nov 1, 2007, 7:58 AM)


rock_fencer


Nov 1, 2007, 8:21 AM
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Re: [shrug7] your hardess 5.9 [In reply to]
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Ant Killer is so much easier than say Ant's Line @ the gunks. that being said. MF is pretty good. There is a 5.9 whose name i cant remember at T-Wall thats pretty ridiculous by golden locks.


brokenankle


Nov 1, 2007, 8:32 AM
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Re: [vortenberg] your hardess 5.9 [In reply to]
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The first two pitches of George's Tree at Lumpy Ridge. The two pitches link with about 200' of flaring/bottoming fingers, with some steep OW at the start of P2 for variety.

Edit: I thought about it some more: Lower Progressive at Veduawoo is pretty stout for the grade too.


(This post was edited by brokenankle on Nov 1, 2007, 8:53 AM)


Partner j_ung


Nov 1, 2007, 8:46 AM
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Re: [brokenankle] your hardess 5.9 [In reply to]
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Jaws is up there for me. Bridge Buttress, NRG. MF at the Gunks, too.


shrug7


Nov 1, 2007, 8:52 AM
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Re: [rock_fencer] your hardess 5.9 [In reply to]
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Never climbed at the Gunks, yet... But from what I have heard/read is that they are rated closer to Devil's Lake 9's then anything down in Soill/RRG.

That's still a great freaking line though. Smile


rockgoat


Nov 1, 2007, 8:58 AM
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Re: [shrug7] your hardess 5.9 [In reply to]
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Any 5.9 in the Mocanaqua area of PA.


jdouble


Nov 1, 2007, 8:58 AM
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Clean & Jerk, J Tree


LostinMaine


Nov 1, 2007, 9:19 AM
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Frosted mug (or was it Labatt-Ami, I can never remember which is which) on the Beer Walls in the Adirondacks. Committing climbing on the lower section and ultra pumpy crack/corner climbing to the top.


munky


Nov 1, 2007, 9:27 AM
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Re: [jdouble] your hardess 5.9 [In reply to]
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Apricot Jam in Linville Gorge. When I first led this thing I had only followed routes up to 5.9 on gear, I could lead 5.11 on bolts, but never any multipitch, and I had only placed gear on a few routes in 5.5-5.6 range. What an epic f-ing day. I did it onsight but linked pitch 1 and 2 with horrendous rope drag. I remember thinking the ending dihedral of "pitch 1" was as hard as anything I'd climbed before. And then on pitch 2 (really pitch 3) I got completely off route and couldn't hear my belayer, nor could I budge the rope. I had traversed way too far off to the right and had so much rope drag I was stuck. I built the shittiest anchor of all time and prayed for all I was worth while my more experienced partner began to solo with a mountaineers coil to my high point. I finally led us off the thing via a crazy thin crack under a roof. I finally topped out with the sky under a crimson cloak minutes from near darkness. TOTALLY EPIC and made me love climbing more than ever!!


blueeyedclimber


Nov 1, 2007, 9:50 AM
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Re: [munky] your hardess 5.9 [In reply to]
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The hardest 9 that I have climbed was actually an 8+ Wink

But, if I must choose, then maybe Inverted Layback at the Gunks.

Ants Line I thought was easy compared to some other 9's.

Josh


onceahardman


Nov 1, 2007, 10:19 AM
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Re: [LostinMaine] your hardess 5.9 [In reply to]
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its frosted mug. small inside corner at the edge of an outside corner. labatt-ami is 5.6. adirondacks have pretty stout ratings in general.

there is a WAY harder 9 (to me) across the street at the spider's web. "on the loose" (9+)...i think it might be a henry barber route. 120 ft handcrack, overhanging all the way, what a PUMP!

at pok-o-moonshine, psychosis (9+) spits off plenty of 5.10+ leaders.


ryanb


Nov 1, 2007, 10:43 AM
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Damnation, on Castle Rock, near Leavenworth, WA.

5.9+ put up in the early 60's 30 something meters, cupped hands to fist to OW to ledge easing to run out stemming in a flare narrowing to a 6+ inch crack.


kmc


Nov 1, 2007, 10:50 AM
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On the loose was a pumpy route, but I think that Bloody Mary at Poko O is harder for the grade. Haven't been on psychosis though, Ill be sure to check it out next time Im up there.

As far as not having done MF until you take it to the GT, I disagree. I know that is what most people say that, but I never really agreed, well is worth doing at least once. Its just that one roof right of the belay, and then nothing else too exciting afterwards. Now if they had just placed the bolted anchor slightly higher above the roof, that would be a stellar pitch with three great cruxes on it, as opposed to a stellar pitch with two great cruxes.

~Kevin


vegastradguy


Nov 1, 2007, 11:07 AM
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Re: [jdouble] your hardess 5.9 [In reply to]
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jdouble wrote:
Clean & Jerk, J Tree

well, hell, if you count Clean and Jerk as 5.9, I'd say that route probably wins!


hansolo


Nov 1, 2007, 11:09 AM
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Re: [kmc] your hardess 5.9 [In reply to]
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Tits and Beer at Looking Glass NC has gotta be one of the hardest 5.9's out there.

Crescent Arch on Daft Dome in Tuolome was also pretty hard for the grade, but it was no Tits and Beer.

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