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vortenberg
Nov 1, 2007, 3:15 AM
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Just curious. What is the hardest 5.9 you've led?
Cheers
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dudemanbu
Nov 1, 2007, 3:16 AM
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unconquerable crack, 5.9+ ragged mountain, ct.
(This post was edited by dudemanbu on Nov 1, 2007, 3:39 AM)
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flint
Nov 1, 2007, 3:22 AM
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Where Lizards Dare. Fortress Wall. 5.9+. Red River Gorge.
From the online guide book:
j-
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rjtrials
Nov 1, 2007, 3:58 AM
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Turbo Dog, Foster Falls, TN
5.9++
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lucander
Nov 1, 2007, 4:01 AM
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MF at the Gunks. Three distinct hard 5.9 moves and you can't say you did it until you climb at least to the GT.
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stymingersfink
Nov 1, 2007, 4:20 AM
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Ionic Bonding 9+ (P1, P2 goes 11a ) in BCC. Pumpy little fucker, the second pitch is actually easier than the first. Still a nice sandbag for that cocky 5.10 leader to be cajoled into.
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drfelatio
Nov 1, 2007, 4:23 AM
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flint wrote: Where Lizards Dare. Fortress Wall. 5.9+. Red River Gorge. From the online guide book: [image]http://www.redriverclimbing.com/RRCGuideV2/image/img/lizards.jpg[/image] j-
I haven't climbed it yet, but Where Lizards Dare is definitely on my to-do list. I haven't heard a single person claiming its 5.9 rating isn't sandbag. Gotta give it up for old-school trad ratings!
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stymingersfink
Nov 1, 2007, 4:29 AM
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stymingersfink wrote: Ionic Bonding 9+ (P1, P2 goes 11a ) in BCC. Pumpy little fucker, the second pitch is actually easier than the first. Still a nice sandbag for that cocky 5.10 leader to be cajoled into.
Wait, I just realized that this route doesn't count... it's a clip-up installed in '90 by Brian and Jonathon Smoot.
Umm, Trad routes I'd have ta say High Dive 9+, also in BCC. Not really a sandbag though, as standing at the bottom looking up one would ask themself "9+... Well, it is kind of a long second pitch"
Whereas with the first one I mentioned you'd be all "5 bolts??? I can see four of them from the ground and the first pitch is only like 50' "
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unreleasedenergy
Nov 1, 2007, 4:52 AM
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Contortionist,
Junkyard Wall, NRG
it spits out people that have climbed it before all the time. its one of those don't-breathe-wrong cruxes. A clean lead is a bit of a crapshoot, governed by humidity and the amount your sweating through the chest jams and chickenwings
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vegastradguy
Nov 1, 2007, 6:13 AM
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its a toss up for me....
the upper pitches of Touchstone were burly as hell, but that may have been exhaustion. 5.9 wide forever, as i recall....
Nadia's Nine, a well known sandbag in RR.
Deep Space, a burly ass DNFU chimney system. blow it and you fall 40', bounce off a ledge and then into the void below....
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shrug7
Nov 1, 2007, 2:57 PM
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Ant Killer Drapers Bluff, Soill.
Larger pic
(This post was edited by shrug7 on Nov 1, 2007, 2:58 PM)
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rock_fencer
Nov 1, 2007, 3:21 PM
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Ant Killer is so much easier than say Ant's Line @ the gunks. that being said. MF is pretty good. There is a 5.9 whose name i cant remember at T-Wall thats pretty ridiculous by golden locks.
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brokenankle
Nov 1, 2007, 3:32 PM
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The first two pitches of George's Tree at Lumpy Ridge. The two pitches link with about 200' of flaring/bottoming fingers, with some steep OW at the start of P2 for variety.
Edit: I thought about it some more: Lower Progressive at Veduawoo is pretty stout for the grade too.
(This post was edited by brokenankle on Nov 1, 2007, 3:53 PM)
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j_ung
Nov 1, 2007, 3:46 PM
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Jaws is up there for me. Bridge Buttress, NRG. MF at the Gunks, too.
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shrug7
Nov 1, 2007, 3:52 PM
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Never climbed at the Gunks, yet... But from what I have heard/read is that they are rated closer to Devil's Lake 9's then anything down in Soill/RRG.
That's still a great freaking line though. 
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rockgoat
Nov 1, 2007, 3:58 PM
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Any 5.9 in the Mocanaqua area of PA.
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jdouble
Nov 1, 2007, 3:58 PM
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Clean & Jerk, J Tree
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LostinMaine
Nov 1, 2007, 4:19 PM
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Frosted mug (or was it Labatt-Ami, I can never remember which is which) on the Beer Walls in the Adirondacks. Committing climbing on the lower section and ultra pumpy crack/corner climbing to the top.
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munky
Nov 1, 2007, 4:27 PM
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Apricot Jam in Linville Gorge. When I first led this thing I had only followed routes up to 5.9 on gear, I could lead 5.11 on bolts, but never any multipitch, and I had only placed gear on a few routes in 5.5-5.6 range. What an epic f-ing day. I did it onsight but linked pitch 1 and 2 with horrendous rope drag. I remember thinking the ending dihedral of "pitch 1" was as hard as anything I'd climbed before. And then on pitch 2 (really pitch 3) I got completely off route and couldn't hear my belayer, nor could I budge the rope. I had traversed way too far off to the right and had so much rope drag I was stuck. I built the shittiest anchor of all time and prayed for all I was worth while my more experienced partner began to solo with a mountaineers coil to my high point. I finally led us off the thing via a crazy thin crack under a roof. I finally topped out with the sky under a crimson cloak minutes from near darkness. TOTALLY EPIC and made me love climbing more than ever!!
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blueeyedclimber
Nov 1, 2007, 4:50 PM
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The hardest 9 that I have climbed was actually an 8+
But, if I must choose, then maybe Inverted Layback at the Gunks.
Ants Line I thought was easy compared to some other 9's.
Josh
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onceahardman
Nov 1, 2007, 5:19 PM
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its frosted mug. small inside corner at the edge of an outside corner. labatt-ami is 5.6. adirondacks have pretty stout ratings in general.
there is a WAY harder 9 (to me) across the street at the spider's web. "on the loose" (9+)...i think it might be a henry barber route. 120 ft handcrack, overhanging all the way, what a PUMP!
at pok-o-moonshine, psychosis (9+) spits off plenty of 5.10+ leaders.
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ryanb
Nov 1, 2007, 5:43 PM
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Damnation, on Castle Rock, near Leavenworth, WA.
5.9+ put up in the early 60's 30 something meters, cupped hands to fist to OW to ledge easing to run out stemming in a flare narrowing to a 6+ inch crack.
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kmc
Nov 1, 2007, 5:50 PM
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On the loose was a pumpy route, but I think that Bloody Mary at Poko O is harder for the grade. Haven't been on psychosis though, Ill be sure to check it out next time Im up there.
As far as not having done MF until you take it to the GT, I disagree. I know that is what most people say that, but I never really agreed, well is worth doing at least once. Its just that one roof right of the belay, and then nothing else too exciting afterwards. Now if they had just placed the bolted anchor slightly higher above the roof, that would be a stellar pitch with three great cruxes on it, as opposed to a stellar pitch with two great cruxes.
~Kevin
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vegastradguy
Nov 1, 2007, 6:07 PM
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jdouble wrote: Clean & Jerk, J Tree
well, hell, if you count Clean and Jerk as 5.9, I'd say that route probably wins!
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hansolo
Nov 1, 2007, 6:09 PM
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Tits and Beer at Looking Glass NC has gotta be one of the hardest 5.9's out there.
Crescent Arch on Daft Dome in Tuolome was also pretty hard for the grade, but it was no Tits and Beer.
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