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decorator_crab
Aug 30, 2007, 11:12 PM
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A climbing partner and I were recently teasing each other about who would redpoint our mutual projects first. Lots of fun give and take, but as we tried to raise excuses and inequities, a question came up.
When does the 'project clock' start ticking? If I top roped something 2 years ago, did not think about it, and then chose to start working on it, does that make it a multi-year project? Does it count as a burn?
My personal opinion is yes to both questions. Even if years go by where you don't have a conscious intent to redpoint that climb, once you get on it once your "Project Clock" has begun to tick. And it will not stop until you get the tick.
My friend disagrees. He cites a couple examples, where he followed a couple routes clean before he started to lead, and is now trying to lead them. This is how the whole thing started, I was teasing him about multi year projects because he top roped these climbs years ago and has just now really started to work them. My point, more to annoy him than anything else, is that he got to see the climb on top rope preview, doesn't matter that he did not have the skills to lead it. He claims that it does not count because he was incapable of the lead at the time, and had no intent to lead it for at least another two years.
Yes, yes, I am fully aware that this is supremely unimportant wanking, but I thought it was mildly interesting. Also, the climbs I am thinking of are in fact crack climbs, but I thought you sport climbers might know more about this sort of thing.
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artm
Aug 31, 2007, 12:18 AM
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The clock begins ticking the minute you touch hand to rock.
Your friend sounds like a gear wanker.
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rockjunkie2
Aug 31, 2007, 2:22 PM
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I agree with artm but here is a funny video from a couple of years ago where me and a friend made a bet on a route.
http://www.craghead.net/newmoviepage2.php?movie=60
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lena_chita
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Aug 31, 2007, 2:43 PM
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Once you touch the rock on a particular climb, it counts as a start of a "project" IMO.
This is why I have a bunch of "redpoints" for routes that I have led cleanly the first time I tried to lead them-- but have toproped, either cleanly or not, at some point a couple of years earlier.
The alternative is to claim the "alzheimer onsight" and I think I'd rather go with "redpoint" claim for now. Maybe in 40 years or so the other claim would begin to look better.
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microbarn
Aug 31, 2007, 3:13 PM
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now clickable:
good movie
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rjtrials
Oct 5, 2007, 3:44 PM
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lena_chita wrote: Once you touch the rock on a particular climb, it counts as a start of a "project" IMO. This is why I have a bunch of "redpoints" for routes that I have led cleanly the first time I tried to lead them-- but have toproped, either cleanly or not, at some point a couple of years earlier. The alternative is to claim the "alzheimer onsight" and I think I'd rather go with "redpoint" claim for now. Maybe in 40 years or so the other claim would begin to look better.
It's 'Alzheimer flash.' You have some idea what the climb entails, so its not onsight. But really, a beta flash is easier than the alzheimer flash...
RJ
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chossmonkey
Oct 6, 2007, 3:35 PM
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artm wrote: The clock begins ticking the minute you touch hand to rock.
What about when touch hand to cock looking at that route just to the side of the warm-up you are flailing on?
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artm
Oct 19, 2007, 11:06 PM
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chossmonkey wrote: artm wrote: The clock begins ticking the minute you touch hand to rock. What about when touch hand to cock looking at that route just to the side of the warm-up you are flailing on?
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chossmonkey
Oct 22, 2007, 4:21 PM
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artm wrote: chossmonkey wrote: artm wrote: The clock begins ticking the minute you touch hand to rock. What about when touch hand to cock looking at that route just to the side of the warm-up you are flailing on? creeee peeee
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artm
Oct 22, 2007, 7:12 PM
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chossmonkey wrote: artm wrote: chossmonkey wrote: artm wrote: The clock begins ticking the minute you touch hand to rock. What about when touch hand to cock looking at that route just to the side of the warm-up you are flailing on? creeee peeee And you love it.
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chossmonkey
Nov 1, 2007, 12:30 PM
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What if you go to onsight a route and mEATBOMZ the talus in the process. Is the project clock still ticking?
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snoopy138
Nov 1, 2007, 2:26 PM
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chossmonkey wrote: What if you go to onsight a route and mEATBOMZ the talus in the process. Is the project clock still ticking?
The project clock stops for nothing. Not even a m34TDECKing.
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artm
Nov 1, 2007, 2:59 PM
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snoopy138 wrote: chossmonkey wrote: What if you go to onsight a route and mEATBOMZ the talus in the process. Is the project clock still ticking? The project clock stops for nothing. Not even a m34TDECKing.
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chossmonkey
Nov 1, 2007, 3:35 PM
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artm wrote: snoopy138 wrote: chossmonkey wrote: What if you go to onsight a route and mEATBOMZ the talus in the process. Is the project clock still ticking? The project clock stops for nothing. Not even a m34TDECKing. number 11. you're only as good as your last route.
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caughtinside
Nov 1, 2007, 3:58 PM
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chossmonkey wrote: artm wrote: snoopy138 wrote: chossmonkey wrote: What if you go to onsight a route and mEATBOMZ the talus in the process. Is the project clock still ticking? The project clock stops for nothing. Not even a m34TDECKing. number 11. you're only as good as your last route. ouch!!!
Sorry chossy. Looks like you're only as good as a 10 inch abrasion on your ass.
And the project clock ticks on.
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artm
Nov 1, 2007, 4:04 PM
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caughtinside wrote: chossmonkey wrote: artm wrote: snoopy138 wrote: chossmonkey wrote: What if you go to onsight a route and mEATBOMZ the talus in the process. Is the project clock still ticking? The project clock stops for nothing. Not even a m34TDECKing. number 11. you're only as good as your last route. ouch!!! Sorry chossy. Looks like you're only as good as a 10 inch abrasion on your ass. And the project clock ticks on.
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caughtinside
Nov 1, 2007, 4:20 PM
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artm wrote: caughtinside wrote: chossmonkey wrote: artm wrote: snoopy138 wrote: chossmonkey wrote: What if you go to onsight a route and mEATBOMZ the talus in the process. Is the project clock still ticking? The project clock stops for nothing. Not even a m34TDECKing. number 11. you're only as good as your last route. ouch!!! Sorry chossy. Looks like you're only as good as a 10 inch abrasion on your ass. And the project clock ticks on. Sorry dave, you're only as good as a freeway underpass.......
Boulder problems don't count. My last route was a 5 pitch 5.8.
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artm
Nov 1, 2007, 6:11 PM
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caughtinside wrote: artm wrote: caughtinside wrote: chossmonkey wrote: artm wrote: snoopy138 wrote: chossmonkey wrote: What if you go to onsight a route and mEATBOMZ the talus in the process. Is the project clock still ticking? The project clock stops for nothing. Not even a m34TDECKing. number 11. you're only as good as your last route. ouch!!! Sorry chossy. Looks like you're only as good as a 10 inch abrasion on your ass. And the project clock ticks on. Sorry dave, you're only as good as a freeway underpass....... Boulder problems don't count. My last route was a 5 pitch 5.8.
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zeke_sf
Nov 1, 2007, 6:46 PM
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artm wrote: caughtinside wrote: artm wrote: caughtinside wrote: chossmonkey wrote: artm wrote: snoopy138 wrote: chossmonkey wrote: What if you go to onsight a route and mEATBOMZ the talus in the process. Is the project clock still ticking? The project clock stops for nothing. Not even a m34TDECKing. number 11. you're only as good as your last route. ouch!!! Sorry chossy. Looks like you're only as good as a 10 inch abrasion on your ass. And the project clock ticks on. Sorry dave, you're only as good as a freeway underpass....... Boulder problems don't count. My last route was a 5 pitch 5.8. Sorry dave boulder problems do count, you're still an underpass.
If you want to boulder me underpass, you must answer my riddles three!!!
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caughtinside
Nov 1, 2007, 6:58 PM
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artm wrote: caughtinside wrote: artm wrote: caughtinside wrote: chossmonkey wrote: artm wrote: snoopy138 wrote: chossmonkey wrote: What if you go to onsight a route and mEATBOMZ the talus in the process. Is the project clock still ticking? The project clock stops for nothing. Not even a m34TDECKing. number 11. you're only as good as your last route. ouch!!! Sorry chossy. Looks like you're only as good as a 10 inch abrasion on your ass. And the project clock ticks on. Sorry dave, you're only as good as a freeway underpass....... Boulder problems don't count. My last route was a 5 pitch 5.8. Sorry dave boulder problems do count, you're still an underpass.
Gonna have to disagree with you there art. It's the same as the gym. Are you going to tell me with a straight face that gym routes count? Cause you know sure as fuck that the gym doesn't mean shit.
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artm
Nov 1, 2007, 7:05 PM
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zeke_sf wrote: artm wrote: caughtinside wrote: artm wrote: caughtinside wrote: chossmonkey wrote: artm wrote: snoopy138 wrote: chossmonkey wrote: What if you go to onsight a route and mEATBOMZ the talus in the process. Is the project clock still ticking? The project clock stops for nothing. Not even a m34TDECKing. number 11. you're only as good as your last route. ouch!!! Sorry chossy. Looks like you're only as good as a 10 inch abrasion on your ass. And the project clock ticks on. Sorry dave, you're only as good as a freeway underpass....... Boulder problems don't count. My last route was a 5 pitch 5.8. Sorry dave boulder problems do count, you're still an underpass. If you want to boulder me underpass, you must answer my riddles three!!!
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artm
Nov 1, 2007, 7:05 PM
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caughtinside wrote: artm wrote: caughtinside wrote: artm wrote: caughtinside wrote: chossmonkey wrote: artm wrote: snoopy138 wrote: chossmonkey wrote: What if you go to onsight a route and mEATBOMZ the talus in the process. Is the project clock still ticking? The project clock stops for nothing. Not even a m34TDECKing. number 11. you're only as good as your last route. ouch!!! Sorry chossy. Looks like you're only as good as a 10 inch abrasion on your ass. And the project clock ticks on. Sorry dave, you're only as good as a freeway underpass....... Boulder problems don't count. My last route was a 5 pitch 5.8. Sorry dave boulder problems do count, you're still an underpass. Gonna have to disagree with you there art. It's the same as the gym. Are you going to tell me with a straight face that gym routes count? Cause you know sure as fuck that the gym doesn't mean shit.
You're still an underpass.
(This post was edited by artm on Nov 1, 2007, 7:05 PM)
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zeke_sf
Nov 1, 2007, 7:27 PM
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caughtinside wrote: Gonna have to disagree with you there art. It's the same as the gym. Are you going to tell me with a straight face that gym routes count? Cause you know sure as fuck that the gym doesn't mean shit.
-We all pretend gym routes don't be nothin', but we all know that they do. That's what's so fuckin' cool about them.
-Don't talk to me about gym routes! I'm the gym fuckin' master; don't be hangdoggin' or nothin'!
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artm
Nov 1, 2007, 7:29 PM
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zeke_sf wrote: caughtinside wrote: Gonna have to disagree with you there art. It's the same as the gym. Are you going to tell me with a straight face that gym routes count? Cause you know sure as fuck that the gym doesn't mean shit. -We all pretend gym routes don't be nothin', but we all know that they do. That's what's so fuckin' cool about them. -Don't talk to me about gym routes! I'm the gym fuckin' master; don't be hangdoggin' or nothin'!
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zeke_sf
Nov 1, 2007, 7:35 PM
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artm wrote: zeke_sf wrote: caughtinside wrote: Gonna have to disagree with you there art. It's the same as the gym. Are you going to tell me with a straight face that gym routes count? Cause you know sure as fuck that the gym doesn't mean shit. -We all pretend gym routes don't be nothin', but we all know that they do. That's what's so fuckin' cool about them. -Don't talk to me about gym routes! I'm the gym fuckin' master; don't be hangdoggin' or nothin'! Sorry zeke if you repeat the same route two weekends in a row it cancels the route out, which makes you nothing.
Are you just mixing and matching responses, because that one doesn't even go with what I posted or what we are talking about. In fact, I am highly offended at this thread drift. Could I get some moderation over here? Arrest this man!
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