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big_red
Aug 2, 2006, 6:36 AM
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Registered: Dec 29, 2005
Posts: 109
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Hey just thought you guys might like a couple pics...I buddy and I were practicing our solo aid leads on some textbook Alaska Limestone (see: 1/2 of your weight tests rip off whatever ledge you had hooked) Well here are a couple pics I took...route grade: who knows
This one seriously 1/2 second before I took about a 20'ish ft fall off of this placement....you can actually see the crack where the ledge broke off...
http://i81.photobucket.com/...223/bennance/aid.jpg
This is right after the fall heading back to where I was. I wanted to dial the route so no jugging back up to the last placement for me...had to traverse about 15 feet left of the fall line to get some solid rock...nothing like some pendulum potential when hooking haha
http://i81.photobucket.com/...ennance/IMG_0625.jpg
Well you might like 'em you might not...but pics are always fun...go climb something
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teth
Aug 2, 2006, 1:10 PM
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Registered: Jun 22, 2006
Posts: 51
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Cool. I like seeing those closeup shots of hook placements.
Teth
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blankslate
Aug 2, 2006, 2:59 PM
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Registered: Jan 14, 2006
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awesome pics! i'm trying to find someone in the NY region to practice aiding with me, with little luck so far. pm me if you're interested. i will also post to the partners forum...
-blankie
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ptpp
Nov 2, 2007, 4:26 AM
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Registered: Nov 1, 2007
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Good grief, no wonder your hooks pop! Look at his photo, and how he has rigged the hook:
The sling is rigged wrong! It's rigged from the inside out, with the knot on the inside. So knott only is the knot [which you can't see] possibly pushing the hook off the rock, but the sling when weighted is being pulled away from the rock.
You need to rig the Talon with the knot in the sling sticking out on the outside of the hook, and the part of the sling that takes your weight comes through the inside between the three arms of the hook. This way weighting the hook pulls the hook into the rock, not away from it.
So push the webbing out, turn it 180 degrees, and stick it back in. Make sure the webbing is only an inch or two longer than the bottom of the hook - you don't want to lose any more height than you have to.
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stymingersfink
Nov 5, 2007, 4:10 AM
Post #5 of 7
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Registered: Aug 12, 2003
Posts: 7250
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ptpp wrote: Good grief, no wonder your hooks pop! Look at his photo, and how he has rigged the hook: The sling is rigged wrong! It's rigged from the inside out, with the knot on the inside. So knott only is the knot [which you can't see] possibly pushing the hook off the rock, but the sling when weighted is being pulled away from the rock. You need to rig the Talon with the knot in the sling sticking out on the outside of the hook, and the part of the sling that takes your weight comes through the inside between the three arms of the hook. This way weighting the hook pulls the hook into the rock, not away from it. So push the webbing out, turn it 180 degrees, and stick it back in. Make sure the webbing is only an inch or two longer than the bottom of the hook - you don't want to lose any more height than you have to.
actually, it looks like the sling is threaded through the hole, then tied into a loop. Also not recommended.
If this is actually the case, untie the knot, pull the webbing, tie the webbing into a loop, then follow PTPP's directions from the above post. A simple overhand works better than a water knot, IME. Leave a little tail on the sling.
Most hooks    should be threaded in a similar manner, with the exception being the Leeper Cam-hooks, which operate best when the loop is tied through the hole in the hook. Doing so with the cam hook will allow you to load a different part of the sling each time, spreading out the wear point and extending the life of the sling.
Which brings up another point... with your Talon (and any other hook), keep an eye on the webbing where it passes through the hook. When it begins to show wear, replace as necessary.
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big_red
Nov 23, 2007, 3:22 AM
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Registered: Dec 29, 2005
Posts: 109
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Well I guess mine were rigged wrong... the knots were on the inside. All of them have since been flipped around and the slings shortened. Thanks a bunch... still pretty new and trying to figure it all out.
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