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estwing
Jun 9, 2002, 11:43 PM
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Hi, I am considering getting into trad climbing, and was curious as to how many pieces of pro you need to climb single and multi pitch.
I was thinking of beginning with a set of B.D. Stoppers #3-13, and W.C. Rockcentrics #3-9. How far will this gear get a fearfull newbie(to trad) off the ground? What pieces would you add(not too many cams please)?
While I am at it, how would you go about racking this gear? I had thought two biners for the stoppers, and one biner for each hex, is this excesive?
Thanks for your help.
Sam
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maculated
Jun 10, 2002, 12:01 AM
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I posted the same question and here's the response:
http://www.rockclimbing.com/forums/viewtopic.php?topic=7223&forum=20&29
I've been very happy with my rack, but I've been expanding, I have a lot more biners, now, some hexes, more slings and another cam (thanks to booty!)
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bmgard
Jun 10, 2002, 5:26 AM
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Ya nuts and hexs are a great way to start. That is what i started with. I'd say go ahead and buy the full set of nuts. I have two #1, and two #2. I don't know what the climbs are like in your area but I've found them usefull. Don't forget to get slings and quickdraws if you don't already have them) Extra binners are always good. And get a few (at least 4)locking biners.
Of cousre the best thing to do is just keep track of the gear you use most often off your teachers rack and then decide. Also it can't hurt to look at a guide and see what is reguired for the climbs you want to do.
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dustinap
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Jun 10, 2002, 6:58 AM
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It's all to subjective. If you're doing 1 pitch trad thats lets say 100 feet with good natural anchors at the top, you could probably get a way with 10 nuts, a few hexes and a few cams. If it's multipitch trad in the valley, probably 10 nuts and a lot more cams and or hexes. If it's at Indian Creek, you'll need a bucketload and a half of cams.
A beginner trad rack could look like this though:
36 D or other strong carabiner
10 slings[20 carabiner's used here]
10 nuts[1-2 carabinres used for racking]
hexes[optional/necessary]
cams[opional/necessary] depends on money
Probably 10 carabiners to rack hexes/cams on.
This leaves you with a few extra carabiners.
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kagunkie
Jun 11, 2002, 2:38 AM
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Nuts! lots of nuts like two sets up to size ten.eight cams and ten draws eight spare biners and six over the shoulder slings. two or three tri cams will round it out nicely too.
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kagunkie
Jun 11, 2002, 2:38 AM
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Oh yeah I unlocked this topic as requested.
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kagunkie
Jun 11, 2002, 3:24 AM
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Seperate your nuts on three biners large medium and small and mix them up just a bit in case you drop one biner you dont loose all of a given size. Cams should be racked one per biner for ease of access and the added convenience if no quick draw is needed you can clip the rope in faster. Tri cams can be racked all on one biner
Youll need a good gear sling, I recommend black diamond adjustable it has worked for me very well. This is just my preference so its not the only way to rack butit has gotten me through probably a thousand pitches, carry cams on the sling and the nuts and tri cams on your harness on your strong side and quick draws on the other side along with your eight or ten spare biners. Also two extra locking biners and your nut tool can be carryed along side the nuts. Having the cams on the shoulder sling enables you to avoid too much weight on your waist and allowes you to move their bulk out of your way when needed. Throw your over the shoulder slings over your opposite shoulder from your rack tie in wake up your belayer and go up.
Have fun.
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sparky
Jun 13, 2002, 4:47 AM
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my poor friend and i have climbed 3,4 and five pitch routes with nothing but a single set of stoppers, not the easiest thing to do but possible
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shilo
Jun 13, 2002, 8:30 AM
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I have a single rack of wild county nuts, and I sometimes lead, But I borrow some more nuts when I multi pitch.
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rushjunkie11
Oct 11, 2002, 2:46 AM
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I've climbed 8 pitch slabs with only a set of nuts and a set of hexes.
I went two years on these before getting cams and tricams.
One thing i'd reccomend is plenty of slings. It may just be me, but i run through long slings quick.
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rushjunkie11
Oct 11, 2002, 2:47 AM
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I've climbed 8 pitch slabs with only a set of nuts and a set of hexes.
I went two years on these before getting cams and tricams.
One thing i'd reccomend is plenty of slings. It may just be me, but i run through long slings quick.
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nlunstrum
Oct 13, 2002, 3:48 AM
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A set of nuts, hexs, and a half set or so of medium sized cams should do. That's about what I started with, plus the three smallest tri-cams(if you like those). The Robots or DMM's are nice and inexpensive.
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arlen
Oct 13, 2002, 4:19 AM
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Stoppers 3-13 and Rockcentrics 3-9 are a solid foundation--the smaller pieces may be usable, but they're rarely needed. You'll know what to double up on by (1) hearing your curses echoing off the cliffs, or (2) just noticing which ones are scratched up after a season. Shame alone will add cams to your rack, so no need to agonize over which ones.
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krustyklimber
Oct 13, 2002, 4:44 AM
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Rushjunkie you went two whole years without cams???
Sorry just kidding.
Some of us old duffers went many many years without them, I myself climbed for twenty-two years before I bought my first cam... and I still yell at my buddies when they fall on them?!?!
Jeff
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javabean
Oct 14, 2002, 8:07 PM
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I found that most of the beginner trad routes (1-3 pitches 5.7/8) with hands-jam crack sucks up a lot of hex, I once climb a route (5.8 Slot Machine, Squamish) that takes my whole set of hex, nothing else. I would say at least get few medium size hex if you don't have any cams.. sometimes nuts are too small...
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holmeslovesguinness
Oct 14, 2002, 10:16 PM
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Unfortunately it is pretty hard to suggest the perfect beginner rack, as the routes you climb most often will really dictate what you should have. The best thing to do is climb with someone who has a lot of gear to make up for what you lack
But still, it sounds like you are on the right track - a lot of folks start out with a similar rack (I know I did). Lots of biners and runners is always good. I think I also started with a #1 BD Camalot and a #4 Friend as my first cams. I've picked up extra stoppers here and there to double up on the ones I seem to use most often (small-medium sizes) and have picked up a few more small to mid size cams when I could afford them.
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