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Since the Dr is IN...
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Partner kimgraves


Nov 2, 2007, 4:40 PM
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Since the Dr is IN...
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Hi Pete,

You've had a couple of posts about what a bitchin' send Mark and Richard put up and how far ahead of it's time it was. And K' was telling me about leading an A5 flake on the Reticent where if she fucked up she was dead.

My question is technical not emotional.

You got spanked on WOS but have climbed other A4+-5 routes. How do you hold it together for the 7ish hours it take to lead a really hard pitch? Do you think about your breathing? Do you focus on the moment? What's happening in your head? What explicitly is "fun"? Can you describe the experience and what you bring to bear to the project?

I am a whole lot less then "a theorist", having lead maybe 3 pitches of A2 in my life. But I am really interested in the mind state needed to confront hard aid.

Best, Kim


Partner j_ung


Nov 2, 2007, 5:31 PM
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Re: [kimgraves] Since the Dr is IN... [In reply to]
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I'm also something far less than a "theorist," but for the few aid pitches I've led, I've noticed that time is condensed... utterly... completely... mindblowingly condensed. I once spent over four hours on a pitch and, to this day, I still swear it couldn't have been more than 20 minutes. (Of course, it goes without saying that I was pretty dehydrated by the end of it.) If that's anything close what happens to people on longer, harder pitches, I won't be surprised.


ammon


Nov 3, 2007, 6:04 PM
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Re: [kimgraves] Since the Dr is IN... [In reply to]
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In reply to:
And K' was telling me about leading an A5 flake on the Reticent where if she fucked up she was dead.

The current rating for the Reticent Wall is no harder than A3+. Sorry guys, not too much A5 on El Cap... but, it's there if you're looking hard enough.


stymingersfink


Nov 3, 2007, 7:11 PM
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Re: [kimgraves] Since the Dr is IN... [In reply to]
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kimgraves wrote:
Hi Pete,

You've had a couple of posts about what a bitchin' send Mark and Richard put up and how far ahead of it's time it was. And K' was telling me about leading an A5 flake on the Reticent where if she fucked up she was dead.

My question is technical not emotional.

You got spanked on WOS but have climbed other A4+-5 routes. How do you hold it together for the 7ish hours it take to lead a really hard pitch? Do you think about your breathing? Do you focus on the moment? What's happening in your head? What explicitly is "fun"? Can you describe the experience and what you bring to bear to the project?

I am a whole lot less then "a theorist", having lead maybe 3 pitches of A2 in my life. But I am really interested in the mind state needed to confront hard aid.

Best, Kim
as he was mentioning in the WoS posts, knowing you're going to fall regardless of skill is entirely different than knowing you might fall if your skill is not up to par.

The one you can do nothing about, the other you can always back off from if your ego doesn't get in the way.

I'd have to guess that ptpp's experience skews par a tad higher than yours or mine.


Partner kimgraves


Nov 3, 2007, 7:22 PM
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Re: [ammon] Since the Dr is IN... [In reply to]
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ammon wrote:
The current rating for the Reticent Wall is no harder than A3+.

Just to clearify: Kate never claimed it was A5. She just told me about leading one of the crux pitches. I looked it up on SuperTaco and it said the crux was A5. So it was MY assumption - it had nothing to do with Kate.

Best, Kim


billcoe_


Nov 23, 2007, 9:45 AM
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Ammon (or anyone) can you direct me to a reference what currently your are using to define A3 (and the rest as well)

I think back in the day, A3 was defined as 20-40 feet fall potential, while A5 was rip a full pitch. Now I understand that ledge falls have somehow been integrated. I see Pete using the Bridwell designators as well like PDH (Pretty damn hard) and DFU (Don't F up)

Thanks

Bill


wanderlustmd


Nov 27, 2007, 6:02 AM
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I think (think...) Ammon is referencing to New Wave grades, which, to my knowledge, grade a pitch based on injury/death potential, not fall length/gear quality.

But since the Reticent has seen a few ascents, maybe pin scars are lowering the grade. Couldn't tell ya.


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