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mindlessroller21
Nov 5, 2007, 9:35 AM
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Me and my friend who started climbing together, spent a lot of time at separate gyms, and are now reunited have found that we now have different concepts of what indoor bouldering is supposed to be. I realize that indoor bouldering could cover any style of climbing but i guess this has more to do with why people train in gyms anyway.
my side: i climbed at a gym whose styke slanted towards huge throws and pumpy power moves. There definately were crimps, pinches and and moves that required finger strength but it wasnt the focus of the problems. It encouraged an acrobatic style of climbing and lots of dynamic movement. This made me see indoor bouldering as a way to set routes specifically with the aim of being unrealistic, to set big acrobatic throws that arent going to happen in nature.
my friends side: he stayed at the gym we started at. It is extremely strong on moves that require finger strength. There are a couple good throws in the gym but its generally a slower more static style of climbing. He says that the style I have become used to is pointless because its less like real rock. I say i rather climb a gym with big fun throws because its a chance to climb things that might not just pop in nature
I realize theres no right way and its completely subjective, but i wanted to hear what other people like about their gyms and what the focus of the climbing at your gym is.
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Knox_Harrington
Nov 5, 2007, 12:38 PM
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Its all fake so don't take it too seriously.
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8flood8
Nov 5, 2007, 12:52 PM
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you can find routes outdoor with huge throws and tons of gymnastic movement.
kind of a pointless argument, because i believe the style you are trying to split hairs about is "indoor climbing"
it doesnt matter what the routes are like. You can skip holds dynamically at your friends gym, or he can man-up and hit the dynos at your gym static.
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jaybro
Nov 5, 2007, 2:04 PM
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I really like steep juggy/thuggy stuff. But it's good to have routes that emphasize the stuff I don't do as much.
It's all climbing.
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thomasribiere
Nov 5, 2007, 6:05 PM
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mindlessroller21 wrote: Me and my friend who started climbing together, spent a lot of time at separate gyms, and are now reunited have found that we now have different concepts of what indoor bouldering is supposed to be. I realize that indoor bouldering could cover any style of climbing but i guess this has more to do with why people train in gyms anyway. my side: i climbed at a gym whose styke slanted towards huge throws and pumpy power moves. There definately were crimps, pinches and and moves that required finger strength but it wasnt the focus of the problems. It encouraged an acrobatic style of climbing and lots of dynamic movement. This made me see indoor bouldering as a way to set routes specifically with the aim of being unrealistic, to set big acrobatic throws that arent going to happen in nature. my friends side: he stayed at the gym we started at. It is extremely strong on moves that require finger strength. There are a couple good throws in the gym but its generally a slower more static style of climbing. He says that the style I have become used to is pointless because its less like real rock. I say i rather climb a gym with big fun throws because its a chance to climb things that might not just pop in nature I realize theres no right way and its completely subjective, but i wanted to hear what other people like about their gyms and what the focus of the climbing at your gym is.
The interest of a bouldering cave/gym is that you can train any kind of energetic pathway (power, power-endurance, endurance) and use what you like (jugs, crimpers, pinches...) IF you don't follow a specific training schedule but just listen to your feelings.
Assuming that you are both beginning, it looks like each of you climb the way he is the most comfortable with : one will train power on crimpers and the other will train endurance on jugs, by example...
But I'm not sure it depends on the gym itself but if the holds are really that different, which is not the case according to my experience (I know approx. 15-20 different gyms).
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krusher4
Nov 5, 2007, 6:08 PM
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Knox_Harrington wrote: Its all fake so don't take it too seriously.
hahahhaahah true, true.
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lena_chita
Moderator
Nov 5, 2007, 6:40 PM
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I have noticed variations in the predominant type of routes set at different gyms. And it is true not just for bouldering, but for the roped routes, too.
It obviously depends on the preferences of route-setters at particular gyms, and I would guess that there only couple people setting problems at each gym that you are describing, hence the style difference.
IMO if you are really serious about training, it makes sense to mix things up-- for you to do more crimps and static or balancy moves, and for your friend to learn better dynamic moves.
But calling one type of problems "better" than others is rather silly. And as several epople pointed out, it is only plastic, anyway.
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socalbolter
Nov 5, 2007, 6:52 PM
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A good indoor facility would have a balance of both styles to accommodate as many different tastes as possible, while also offering the chance to learn and improve on both styles.
You'll find both when you venture outdoors, and even if you favor more dynamic movement (it sounds like you do), being able to use your feet will help you to ste up better and generate momentum on more complicated dynos and deadpoints.
I also agree that one is no better than the other, just different.
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hiyapokey
Nov 5, 2007, 10:31 PM
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Registered: Jul 6, 2006
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The best routes are neither big move throws nor are they crimpy finger crunchers. The best indoor routes are brainy problems where you can't do it until you figure out you need to do the toe point instead of the heel hook, or you have to toe jam that thing around the corner.
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ServiceAceStud
Dec 31, 2007, 9:14 PM
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Registered: Mar 20, 2007
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Indoor bouldering can be whatever we want it to be. Me and some of the other regualr setters have very different styles as well, not just juggy or dynamic or static. Although I have no problem putting up different styles I've always tried to make climbs simulate outdoor climbs I've done. Afterall many of the gym rats in the winter will go outdoors and may see the climbs that inspire my routes indoors. I'm a fan of specific movements in which I'll link into or build a climb around. Place the hands first, then the feet I always say when setting. The other regular setter likes crimps and slopes, where I prefer heel hooks, toe hooks, jams and sidepulls. Becuase so many of my gym's climbers don't get outdoors I feel that unless I prepare them for what real foot holds are they are going to be unmotivated to keep climbing outdoors. I've seen many young climbers with good finger, upper body and arm strength get spanked outdoors. I love the quote " Climbing is 90% footwork and 10% mental."
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