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atomix1010
Nov 5, 2007, 6:00 PM
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well on last thursday i was attempting a dyno and fell..HARD. My foot rolled uder me and i was in aganizing pain. I scheluded an appoointment with a doctor for the closest date monday. I had x rays and a little talk with my doc. well i broke my ankle in two places. Now i heres the kicker Itll be a miniumum of 8 weeks/3 motnhs before i can begin to climb again.
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wzrdgandalf
Nov 5, 2007, 6:15 PM
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You better be jumping for joy it was broken. If it was a high ankle sprain you would have been out for 6 months minimum. Well I guess you shouldnt be jumping for joy, sorry to hear about your ankle, maybe you should wrap it really well and put a huge pad under you and start training your campus moves. Heal well and come back soon.
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lena_chita
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Nov 5, 2007, 6:24 PM
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Ouch! I hope it heals fast.
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icedpulleys
Nov 5, 2007, 6:36 PM
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Uhhh... you meant 6 weeks, right? I had a nasty ankle sprain last summer and was up and doing laps 3 weeks afterwards, and had full mobility with only minor pain and no swelling at 6 weeks. Key to a sprain is keep it taped/braced while still prone to swelling and ice well afterwards, but you can climb on it while it's recovering.
OP: get well soon, and seek advice on rehab -- after a break, it's well worth your time to have a tailored rehab plan to bring your leg back to its original strength.
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rockforlife
Nov 5, 2007, 6:40 PM
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yeah i just did that to my ankle and it hurt like none other and me being dumb went to a comp three days later but i did do good, but paid for it with a little pain, but i agree you can climb just have to take it easy if you can ,(not very good at it my self). well good luck but yes campus a lot you will be like dave gram in three months maybe ?????
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granite_grrl
Nov 5, 2007, 6:56 PM
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3 months isn't really that long. You might be out from bouldering for quite a while, but why not start top roping when you can start to weight bear?
And I second that you're lucky it was a break than a horrible sprain/tear. Bones heal better than tendons. Be glad for the little things and keep your chin up.
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shimanilami
Nov 5, 2007, 7:11 PM
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icedpulleys wrote: Uhhh... you meant 6 weeks, right? I had a nasty ankle sprain last summer and was up and doing laps 3 weeks afterwards, and had full mobility with only minor pain and no swelling at 6 weeks. Key to a sprain is keep it taped/braced while still prone to swelling and ice well afterwards, but you can climb on it while it's recovering.
Sorry, dude, but if you were "doing laps" on it 3 weeks later, then it was only a minor sprain. "High sprain" means that you tore the tendons, which does take up to 6 months to heal. And if you try to climb on such an injury, you have to be extremely careful. A minor twist can re-tear the tendon and set you all the way back to month-zero.
I've broken many bones and had numerous sprains. I'd take a broken bone over a severe sprain any day.
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chossmonkey
Nov 5, 2007, 7:12 PM
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If you are careful you can start TRing stuff with big hand holds as soon as the pain is under control. You really only need one foot if you can pull with your arms.
Still a bummer though.
How high did you fall from? Did you hit the pad? A rock? The edge of the pad? Just land badly?
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caughtinside
Nov 5, 2007, 7:14 PM
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In terms of climbing injuries that I have either witnessed or happened to people I know, bouldering injuries outnumber roped climbing injuries by 10 to 1. Ankles are the most common victims.
Be careful out there. Or in there, if you're in the gym. Gym bouldering is the most injury causing activity of all.
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crodog
Nov 5, 2007, 7:25 PM
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Did you break the Talus bone?
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the_climber
Nov 5, 2007, 7:29 PM
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Hey man, sorry to hear.
All things considered you're one lucky SOB to have broken it. Repeated severe sprains and you could end up with an ankle like mine, not recomended.
Heal fast and don't get overly ambitous when you start back up.
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atomix1010
Nov 5, 2007, 8:27 PM
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I apprecaite the suppourt.
To answer some o fhte questions ive seen. I fell from a dyno the fall height was 5 ft ande i hit the edge of the pad were my foot rolled undermy leg/body. I broke the i beilve tibila and fibila bones. I spoent the weekend with my foot elevated and kept it in a 5 gallon bucket filled woith ice and water. Just had a cast put on today.
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caughtinside
Nov 5, 2007, 8:40 PM
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wonderwoman wrote: caughtinside wrote: Be careful out there. Or in there, if you're in the gym. Gym bouldering is the most injury causing activity of all. I can testify to that! I sprained my ankle AND my lower back bouldering in the gym last month. Luckily, the ankle healed no problem. I'm still in PT for the back 
Very sorry to hear!
After ripping some tendons in the gym, and seeing 4 people suffer serious ankle injuries from landing on the edge of the pad and rolling it in the gym, I made a new gym policy for myself:
no bouldering harder than v3. Above that they start getting really dynamic to small holds, or worse, shallow pockets. NO way!! tendon shredders.
don't use the pad at all. The padded floor is just fine.
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atomix1010
Nov 5, 2007, 8:53 PM
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Well yeah wats the risk of injuring yourself on the floor onstead of the mat.
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caughtinside
Nov 5, 2007, 9:37 PM
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atomix1010 wrote: Well yeah wats the risk of injuring yourself on the floor onstead of the mat.
well, there is a very real risk of placing the pad, starting a problem, and climbing over the edge of the pad. Then falling, and having your ankle roll because your foot lands on the edge of the pad and it collapses, or your foot half on and half of the pad.
Since the floor is padded anyway, I'll take my chances with it, no edges to roll off.
Maybe if you are doing a horizontal roof in the gym the pad makes more sense, but for any problem where you might land on your feet instead of your back, no pad for me.
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pylonhead
Nov 5, 2007, 10:12 PM
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caughtinside wrote: don't use the pad at all. The padded floor is just fine.
After breaking my foot in much the same way the OP did, this is my policy too.
Dyno to top, missed hold, falling backwards and left, hit the edge of the pad, and rolled the foot, tendons were stronger than bone (thankfully), pulled my 5th metatarsal (little toe bone) apart .
It was about 3 months of being in a cast for me, and I started top roping again as soon as I could walk without a crutch. (I thought the gym might object if I was hobbling over to the start of the route).
I had taken almost the exact same fall 3 time before the accident, but then that last time I dragged over a crash pad. I placed the pad where I had fallen the other times, but then put more umph into my final attempt, and ended up just tagging the edge of the pad = disaster.
There is no question that if the pad wasn't there, I would have been fine. I can remember reading somewhere in these forums that someone working at a gym had noticed that, in the log book they kept of injuries, the vast majority was from hitting the edge of a pad in the bouldering area.
So unless you can be sure to avoid the edges, no pad is far better than having one.
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Arrogant_Bastard
Nov 5, 2007, 10:56 PM
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shimanilami wrote: icedpulleys wrote: Uhhh... you meant 6 weeks, right? I had a nasty ankle sprain last summer and was up and doing laps 3 weeks afterwards, and had full mobility with only minor pain and no swelling at 6 weeks. Key to a sprain is keep it taped/braced while still prone to swelling and ice well afterwards, but you can climb on it while it's recovering. Sorry, dude, but if you were "doing laps" on it 3 weeks later, then it was only a minor sprain. "High sprain" means that you tore the tendons, which does take up to 6 months to heal. And if you try to climb on such an injury, you have to be extremely careful. A minor twist can re-tear the tendon and set you all the way back to month-zero. I've broken many bones and had numerous sprains. I'd take a broken bone over a severe sprain any day.
I can back this up from personal experience. And yeah, if you were running laps 3 weeks later, you didn't even cross the tip of the iceberg on what rolling an ankle can mean. Ask any skateboarder.
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