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Portaledge alternative?
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zibircut


Nov 5, 2007, 5:15 PM
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Portaledge alternative?
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Alright, I haven't been up the bigwalls, so related noob. I am shopping around for an inexpensive portaledge, before I commit to the big bucks (Krusty ledge is one possibiilty).

I wondered, if I could convert one of the cheaply available aluminum cots into a portaledge for the intended purpose.

What's the consensus?


tallsailor


Nov 5, 2007, 5:21 PM
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Re: [zibircut] Portaledge alternative? [In reply to]
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I say it would fall apart, not because I have ever done a wall, but because I have strung up an aluminum cot with webbing and hung it from the ceiling and it was down-right scary. I, like you, value cheapness...

Some day, soon hopefully, I will go from a wall theorist to a wall climber. Anybody want a belay slave?

John


skiclimb


Nov 5, 2007, 5:52 PM
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Re: [zibircut] Portaledge alternative? [In reply to]
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10$ foldup wal-Mart Lawn Chair.

Works

Course if things get ugly weatherwise it's gona be interesting

I did the shield with a $8 wallmart net hammock strung below my buddies single ledge..


Partner kimgraves


Nov 5, 2007, 5:54 PM
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Re: [zibircut] Portaledge alternative? [In reply to]
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Simple solution: rent

Or: Go Fish.

Best, Kim


(This post was edited by kimgraves on Nov 5, 2007, 5:59 PM)


atg200


Nov 6, 2007, 7:04 AM
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Re: [kimgraves] Portaledge alternative? [In reply to]
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i've spent one night on a wall in a pretty bad wind. it was unpleasant in a bomber ledge, and it definitely would have been hell in a lawn chair contraption.

do fix and fire walls, or walls with natural ledges that don't need a portaledge until you can buy one.


moof


Nov 6, 2007, 3:38 PM
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Re: [zibircut] Portaledge alternative? [In reply to]
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Definately start with a short wall with natural ledges. WFLT for example requires no ledge. Nose can be done sans ledge too. Spend the money on a good bivy bag (bibler big wall or equivalent) or you'll die.

Once you have gotten up a wall you will have a much much better idea whether you actually enjoy the suffering enough to justify big bucks on something.

Fish Econoledge is bomber. You get no fly however. If you are a responsible wall climber you will have a decent bivy bag leftover from your natural ledge days, and therefore won't die too badly in a moderate storm. You will not be wanting to go on major expeditions in this rig, but fair weather walling in the valley will be just fine.

Best option is to find a partner with a double ledge. Spending a few nights in any ledge will quickly get you to the point of knowing what's important, what is frill, and what is just stupid.

Go to Bigwalls.com and look deep into some of Duece's open source postings (original John Middendorf designs free for all to use). You can get pretty far buying your own aircraft tubing, copper elbow corners, and sewing up your own on an ebay special POS sewing machine. You'll quickly decide they outlandish prices from all the commercial outfits are a deal.


fatoomchk


Nov 9, 2007, 9:51 AM
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Re: [zibircut] Portaledge alternative? [In reply to]
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Well.... the cheapest option is this:

2 meter long piece of 2 x 4 lumber with holes drilled in each end.

$3 hammock from your local hammock purveyor.

Several meters of static rope.

Observe ascii art below for clarification:

Anchor --->...............0.........
............................../..\.........
static ropes --->....../....\........
.........................../.......\.......
........................../.........\......
........................./...........\.......
2 x 4 -->..........==========...
.......................|..............|......
climber in..........|..O-|--<..|.......
hammock -->.....|________|.......



CoolCoolCool

Yes, I am so cheap I don't have MS paint Laugh If you squint you can make the dots go blurry and it looks like a dude in a hammock.

But seriously.... this works. kinda. managing the 2 x 4 whilst hauling is ... interesting.

EDIT:fix ascii art


(This post was edited by fatoomchk on Nov 9, 2007, 9:54 AM)


tallmark515


Nov 13, 2007, 5:29 PM
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Re: [zibircut] Portaledge alternative? [In reply to]
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Krustyledge looks okay, but consider this:
http://www.rockclimbing.com/...;;page=unread#unread

Home made design based on the fish design, ~$300

Problem with the krustyledge is that it can't really be broken down and the frame is PVC. Use CroMoly or 6061 Alum which is the industry standard.

-mark


sanarteaga


Jul 8, 2009, 10:01 PM
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Re: [skiclimb] Portaledge alternative? [In reply to]
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I did the shield with a $8 wallmart net hammock strung below my buddies single ledge..
In reply to:


Any remarks on this? Ive seen it on old school pics... how bad is it really is?


altelis


Jul 10, 2009, 5:31 AM
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Re: [sanarteaga] Portaledge alternative? [In reply to]
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sanarteaga wrote:
I did the shield with a $8 wallmart net hammock strung below my buddies single ledge..
In reply to:


Any remarks on this? Ive seen it on old school pics... how bad is it really is?

I liked how you told him you did it and left out the comment on the "how bad is it really" part of the question!!!!!!!!!!Tongue


skiclimb


Jul 12, 2009, 7:43 PM
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Re: [altelis] Portaledge alternative? [In reply to]
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altelis wrote:
sanarteaga wrote:
I did the shield with a $8 wallmart net hammock strung below my buddies single ledge..
In reply to:


Any remarks on this? Ive seen it on old school pics... how bad is it really is?

I liked how you told him you did it and left out the comment on the "how bad is it really" part of the question!!!!!!!!!!Tongue

eh just havn't checked back on the thread in a while.

It works. Problem is you wait till your buddy sets up ledge .. your tired and hungry .. then gotta finagle with tieing into the corners while suspended.. not that bad except as I mentioned your tired and hungry.. and bouncing your buddies ledge around annoying him,,,

it does work..if you absolutely just have to get up that wall so bad you would turn down Megan Fox for a week just to be there...

The sleeping was surprisingly comfortable the way i had it.


(This post was edited by skiclimb on Jul 12, 2009, 7:44 PM)


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