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OW techniques
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beyond_gravity


Oct 13, 2002, 1:15 PM
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OW techniques
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i'm trying to figger out how to climb OW's. The one i'm looking at right now is just too wide for a foot jam (about 1/2 in. too wide!)...thats my biggest problem, I tried liebacking it but I really suck at that.


rushjunkie11


Oct 13, 2002, 2:14 PM
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Offwidths are tricky.
Heel/toe jams may work, with hand/fist stacks.
If it's too wide for that, you'll have to move up to chicken wings, levatating, and possibly knee/heel jams.
At least that's how i climb them.


stevematthys


Oct 13, 2002, 2:28 PM
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arm bars and chicken wings work good, or so i have been told (i have not climbed any hard off widths)


winkwinklambonini


Oct 13, 2002, 2:35 PM
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Offwidths are fun when you figure them out. they're all different but they all share one thing: They are grievous.

One trick that I like is to arm bar with the inside arm and gastone with the out. u can sometimes put a fist behind your arm bar hand and that can be solid enough to work both feet high enough to throw another arm bar with the fist jam arm, then put a fist behind that with the previous arm bar.

Get it?


apollodorus


Oct 13, 2002, 4:29 PM
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Most OW techniques require sticking the upper body in a two-handed effort while you slide the feet up. Then, you stick the foot or feet, so the hands can move up. Unlike most other types of climbing, you'll usually only have one point of contact while you move the other (in a hand crack, you'd have three while you move one).

Use hand-to-fist, fist-to-fist, armbar, gastone, hand to shoulder, fist to shoulder, chickenwing, chest jam or whatever works for the crack. Either jam the foot by rolling the ankle sideways, jam the knee by bending it up, wedge and jam your hip, or stack your feet.

Leavittation is alternating hand-stacks with a knee or leg jam in a frog-type motion.


duskerhu


Oct 13, 2002, 5:56 PM
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Climbing OW's are greatly dependent upon size... Yours compared to it's... Meaning, one particular offwidth crack will be climbed defferently by different people, depending on how big a persons arms and legs are compared to the width of the crack.

An obvious option in all OW circumstances should be to look (or feel) for holds for hands and feet inside the crack and on the outside walls...

Sometimes you will be able to actually "jam" your thigh into a crack which can be a "no hands" rest if the crack is tight enough on your leg.

In spots where there are no obvious holds (or obviously are none ), the chicken-wing / arm-bar technique will usually work for upper body placements on the "inside" arm and the above mentioned one hand gaston type hold on the edge of the crack for the outside arm. For legs, sometimes you have to do whatever you can with them. If you can't stem them somewhere outside the crack, you might try to use your inside leg in a modified arm-bar type technique where you have it tensioned with your knee against one side and your foot smeared against the inner side.

OW techniques are basically, jam everything you have and use everything else you know about climbing in between...

Have Fun!

Live Free!
Play Hard!
Climb On!

duskerhu


maculated


Oct 13, 2002, 6:01 PM
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It's a lie. There are no techniques for OW.


mreardon


Oct 14, 2002, 3:44 PM
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I equate offwidths to doing 1,000 sit ups, move six inches. Wedge yourself in, rest, breath, do another thousand. Fly out of the crack, cry like a 12 year old girl. Repeat until completely worthless, but at least chicks dig scars.


beyond_gravity


Oct 14, 2002, 5:28 PM
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Hmm, maybe i'll just get some Valley Giants and if I ever run into an OW i'll just aid it!


bigwalling


Oct 14, 2002, 7:36 PM
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Levitation might be the way to go if it is a hard OW. You better have killer abs though.


elvis


Oct 16, 2002, 1:26 AM
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head jam helmet requirement


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