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PatMcGinn


Nov 6, 2007, 6:40 PM
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A method of how to ascend when bolting a route...
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First get your drill, bolts, yada, yada. Then make sure you have a vague idea of where your bolts are going to be. You'll need the drill stuff and an atc *dynamic rope* and draws set up at the anchors.

*** This is good for single pitch routes

** Note These pictures are examples to show you not the real deal.

First set up a toprope.


Then tie in to the climber side of the rope.


Next put the belayers side of the rope into the atc.


Clip both the atc and rope into the locking carabiner and clip that into your belay loop and your rope.

Next belay your self up the wall. Tie knots that will stop you if you fall. Make sure that you can untie them.


Then if you fall the knots will catch you.


When you reach the perfect place for a person to clip, you ascend a tiny bit more tie a knot and lower your self so that you rest on the knot, from there you can drill and put the bolt in.

I may not work but I tried it in my basement on an eyebolt.


If you don't think it does please tell me I'm anxious to know.


(This post was edited by PatMcGinn on Nov 6, 2007, 6:43 PM)


PatMcGinn


Nov 6, 2007, 6:46 PM
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Re: [PatMcGinn] A method of how to ascend when bolting a route... [In reply to]
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And yes that is a giant mcdonalds poster in the last picture. My cousin stole it when she was working one day..


jakedatc


Nov 6, 2007, 6:54 PM
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Re: [PatMcGinn] A method of how to ascend when bolting a route... [In reply to]
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Or.... you can use an ascender and a gri gri/cinch and have it work alot easier? do tell how you tie those knots while belaying yourself with an ATC..

howtokillyourself101

perhaps you should go back to worrying about how to belay rather than how to bolt things.... please don't die at rumney.... thanks.


(This post was edited by jakedatc on Nov 6, 2007, 6:57 PM)


docburner


Nov 6, 2007, 6:57 PM
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Re: [PatMcGinn] A method of how to ascend when bolting a route... [In reply to]
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If you have just lead a route, and never bolted a route, I don't think you should be sharing information on how you think the best way to do something you have never done and have no experience in.

What if some other noob such as yourself decides to bolt a route and googles it, comesup with this, and decides to try it and kills themself?

Also really what you posted has nothing to do with how to bolt a route, just how to ascend it, and if you are going to do it like this there is definitely much better, and probably safer ways of doing it.

I know you are excited about the sport, but when you are posting for the world to see please consider the implications your post might cause.


PatMcGinn


Nov 6, 2007, 7:02 PM
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Re: [docburner] A method of how to ascend when bolting a route... [In reply to]
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docburner wrote:
If you have just lead a route, and never bolted a route, I don't think you should be sharing information on how you think the best way to do something you have never done and have no experience in.

What if some other noob such as yourself decides to bolt a route and googles it, comesup with this, and decides to try it and kills themself?

Also really what you posted has nothing to do with how to bolt a route, just how to ascend it, and if you are going to do it like this there is definitely much better, and probably safer ways of doing it.

I know you are excited about the sport, but when you are posting for the world to see please consider the implications your post might cause.
I'm not saying I"m going to do it, I'm asking/seeing if this could work, would it work, and does it work?


ja1484


Nov 6, 2007, 7:05 PM
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Re: [PatMcGinn] A method of how to ascend when bolting a route... [In reply to]
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Edit: Please tell me that's not a picture of you yourself above?

Edit 2: Belay yourself up the rock with an ATC? On top rope? Tying knots?

Well, I'm glad it worked on an eyebolt in your basement with the McDonald's poster in attendance.

Listen, I'm going to be uncharacteristically nice and diplomatic considering the contents of this thread: Don't worry about bolts for a while. For a long while. Put them out of your mind completely.


(This post was edited by ja1484 on Nov 6, 2007, 7:26 PM)


microbarn


Nov 6, 2007, 7:06 PM
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Re: [PatMcGinn] A method of how to ascend when bolting a route... [In reply to]
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PatMcGinn wrote:
First get your drill, bolts, yada, yada. Then make sure you have a vague idea of where your bolts are going to be. You'll need the drill stuff and an atc *dynamic rope* and draws set up at the anchors.

*** This is good for single pitch routes

** Note These pictures are examples to show you not the real deal.

First set up a toprope.
[img]http://img221.imageshack.us/img221/5894/img1934nn8.jpg[/img]

Then tie in to the climber side of the rope.
[img]http://img117.imageshack.us/img117/623/img1933vc8.jpg[/img]

Next put the belayers side of the rope into the atc.
[img]http://img261.imageshack.us/img261/1650/img1935lb9.jpg[/img]

Clip both the atc and rope into the locking carabiner and clip that into your belay loop and your rope.

Next belay your self up the wall. Tie knots that will stop you if you fall. Make sure that you can untie them.
[img]http://img261.imageshack.us/img261/7057/img1940pg0.jpg[/img]

Then if you fall the knots will catch you.
[img]http://img261.imageshack.us/img261/5651/img1941qd5.jpg[/img]

When you reach the perfect place for a person to clip, you ascend a tiny bit more tie a knot and lower your self so that you rest on the knot, from there you can drill and put the bolt in.

I may not work but I tried it in my basement on an eyebolt.
[img]http://img404.imageshack.us/img404/5919/img1943vf8.jpg[/img]

If you don't think it does please tell me I'm anxious to know.

no


jakedatc


Nov 6, 2007, 7:13 PM
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Re: [PatMcGinn] A method of how to ascend when bolting a route... [In reply to]
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PatMcGinn wrote:
docburner wrote:
If you have just lead a route, and never bolted a route, I don't think you should be sharing information on how you think the best way to do something you have never done and have no experience in.

What if some other noob such as yourself decides to bolt a route and googles it, comesup with this, and decides to try it and kills themself?

Also really what you posted has nothing to do with how to bolt a route, just how to ascend it, and if you are going to do it like this there is definitely much better, and probably safer ways of doing it.

I know you are excited about the sport, but when you are posting for the world to see please consider the implications your post might cause.
I'm not saying I"m going to do it, I'm asking/seeing if this could work, would it work, and does it work?

no it does not work, do not do it.


troutboy


Nov 6, 2007, 7:24 PM
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Re: [jakedatc] A method of how to ascend when bolting a route... [In reply to]
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Not to mention a real climber would be bolting it on lead. Wink

TS


gobennyjo


Nov 6, 2007, 7:35 PM
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Re: [PatMcGinn] A method of how to ascend when bolting a route... [In reply to]
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WTF no... and dont top rope off a single non locker, I say that cause you deminstrate how to tie in which I dont think some bolting needs to learn how to do that. You kind of stated the "question" like a statement then kind of said you were just asking.


flint


Nov 6, 2007, 7:41 PM
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Re: [PatMcGinn] A method of how to ascend when bolting a route... [In reply to]
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Hate to see you tie that slip knot backwards, or look down to see that the weight of the rope has pulled all of them out, making that trip to the ground all to easy.

Please don't post this stuff, it is actually really dangerous to do, even if you know what you are doing, (which you don't) the person looking for the advice does not. This is why this advice should be learned first hand and over time.

I hope the Mods delete this, or make there job easier and delete your original post, this is for the safety of others, not trying to be mean.

Also, NO, it will not work.

Final note, that sharpy indicator on your ATC just tells the rest of us that it is completely unused and that you don't know what you are doing. Sharpy markings wear off the first time you climb, and definitly before you would be bolting.

j-


ja1484


Nov 6, 2007, 7:41 PM
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gobennyjo wrote:
WTF no... and dont top rope off a single non locker, I say that cause you deminstrate how to tie in which I dont think some bolting needs to learn how to do that. You kind of stated the "question" like a statement then kind of said you were just asking.

You win at good intentions, but lose at grammar. Allow me to translate:

WTF no...and don't top rope off an anchor with a power point consisting only of a single non-locking biner. I say this because you demonstrate how to tie in, which I don't think someone bolting needs to learn how to do, and this calls into serious question your familiarity with climbing gear and rope safety systems in general...ergo, I don't see it as outside the realm of possibility that you would attempt something along the line of the aforementioned anchor setup.

Furthermore, your original post was misleading - you presented the information as a series of statements, then later made a statement claiming that your prior statement was, in fact, a query. My query to you then becomes whether or not your original statement was a statement or question. Understand?

*bows*


(This post was edited by ja1484 on Nov 6, 2007, 7:43 PM)


ja1484


Nov 6, 2007, 7:44 PM
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Re: [flint] A method of how to ascend when bolting a route... [In reply to]
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flint wrote:
Final note, that sharpy indicator on your ATC just tells the rest of us that it is completely unused and that you don't know what you are doing. Sharpy markings wear off the first time you climb, and definitly before you would be bolting.


The squeaky clean/untouched rope and harness helped as well.


tylerandapril


Nov 6, 2007, 7:59 PM
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OHHH my freekin @%#, Is this REALY where new routing is going to come from? WE ARE ALL GOING TO DIE!


gobennyjo


Nov 6, 2007, 8:01 PM
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Re: [ja1484] A method of how to ascend when bolting a route... [In reply to]
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ja1484 wrote:
gobennyjo wrote:
WTF no... and dont top rope off a single non locker, I say that cause you deminstrate how to tie in which I dont think some bolting needs to learn how to do that. You kind of stated the "question" like a statement then kind of said you were just asking.

You win at good intentions, but lose at grammar. Allow me to translate:

WTF no...and don't top rope off an anchor with a power point consisting only of a single non-locking biner. I say this because you demonstrate how to tie in, which I don't think someone bolting needs to learn how to do, and this calls into serious question your familiarity with climbing gear and rope safety systems in general...ergo, I don't see it as outside the realm of possibility that you would attempt something along the line of the aforementioned anchor setup.

Furthermore, your original post was misleading - you presented the information as a series of statements, then later made a statement claiming that your prior statement was, in fact, a query. My query to you then becomes whether or not your original statement was a statement or question. Understand?

*bows*
Ahh yes grammar and alcohol don't mix, especially when you have to look up alcohol to spell it rightLaugh


coastal_climber


Nov 6, 2007, 8:03 PM
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>Cam


ja1484


Nov 6, 2007, 8:05 PM
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I did not approve that tie in Unimpressed


rogue10186


Nov 6, 2007, 8:18 PM
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Re: [PatMcGinn] A method of how to ascend when bolting a route... [In reply to]
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Please do not do this, I don't want to read about your goffy ass meatbombing in the accident forums, if you really must ascend a rope or chill at a spot for a while, just use prussics. Look it up in Freedom of the hills. Also, don't know if you were actually planning on it, but please don't touch a bolting kit for a long while


Partner camhead


Nov 6, 2007, 8:25 PM
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coastal_climber


Nov 6, 2007, 8:43 PM
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camhead wrote:
[IMG]http://i143.photobucket.com/albums/r133/TheCamhead/roflbot-2b8U.jpg[/IMG]

ExcellentTongue

>Cam


moose_droppings


Nov 6, 2007, 9:05 PM
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If he doesn't get the chop, he's destined to be the next Ronald McDonald.


gobennyjo


Nov 6, 2007, 9:09 PM
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Awe I almost feel sorry for the poor guy, nah haha Laugh


moose_droppings


Nov 6, 2007, 9:19 PM
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gobennyjo wrote:
Awe I almost feel sorry for the poor guy, nah haha Laugh

Yeah, looks like his heart is in to it, and he is being inventive.


vegastradguy


Nov 6, 2007, 10:12 PM
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more importantly, if you do not know how to ascend a route properly in order to bolt it, then you have absolutely no business actually installing said bolts.

when you have enough time and rate in the sport that you can install bolts correctly, then trust me, you'll know how to ascend the route in order to do so.


drfelatio


Nov 6, 2007, 10:24 PM
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moose_droppings wrote:

If he doesn't get the chop, he's destined to be the next Ronald McDonald.

I wonder if this is in the "Worst Photos of RC.com" thread yet...

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