Nov 8, 2007, 3:03 AM
Post #26 of 47
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Re: [catbird_seat] Slinging a chockstone/Threading a sling is:
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catbird_seat wrote:
philbox wrote:
Last weekend on a new trad route we were putting up, Shawn slung a very very sharp horn. That was his last piece of gear for fully 30 feet of over verticle climbing. For all you guys who don't believe in religion and Shawn was one of them, we were both praying to the good Lord to keep him safe and for him not to stuff up and fall. Previous to him slinging the horn he did take a 20/25 foot whipper when he grabbed a loose piece of rock.
So slung sharp horns will convert any of you heathen to religion when you are 30 or 40 feet above it and looking at a ledge fall. I defy anyone to remain an atheist in that situation.
We went back and placed a couple of pieces of fixed pro in the blank section after we established an anchor that we could rap off.
It would seem that having some of that fat, heavy, 1" webbing would be nice to have when slinging sharp horns.
I have a few standard length runners made of 1" webbing that I used to use for rigging. Through the center of the webbing I pulled the core of a 10.2mm kernmantle rope (just the core fibers, not the sheath), then tied the webbing+core fibers into a loop. It's heavy, but would probably give you a bit moer of an edge (no pun intended) when dealing with slinging sharp horns.
We use a lot of similar slings when hoisting towers with cranes, but they're much heavier in construction and duty rating.
Nov 8, 2007, 3:39 AM
Post #27 of 47
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Re: [stymingersfink] Slinging a chockstone/Threading a sling is:
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stymingersfink wrote:
I have a few standard length runners made of 1" webbing that I used to use for rigging. Through the center of the webbing I pulled the core of a 10.2mm kernmantle rope (just the core fibers, not the sheath), then tied the webbing+core fibers into a loop. It's heavy, but would probably give you a bit moer of an edge (no pun intended) when dealing with slinging sharp horns.
Jesus man. While it probably works fine, I'll keep me 2fished 6mm cord...
Which, by the way, everyone should carry at least one of on any trad climb. A shoulder length runner composed of 6-7mm nylon 2fished is FAR easier to thread through/around many features than flat webbing. Also seems to do better with abrasion.
(This post was edited by ja1484 on Nov 8, 2007, 12:35 PM)
Nov 8, 2007, 4:33 AM
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Re: [stymingersfink] Slinging a chockstone/Threading a sling is:
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There is a good reason why webbing is commonly used for slings rather than cord. Webbing is flat and therefore maintains more of its strength when bent around the curves of the rock. It should be more cut-resistent than cord of the same strength and weight.
Nov 8, 2007, 5:01 AM
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Re: [catbird_seat] Slinging a chockstone/Threading a sling is:
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catbird_seat wrote:
There is a good reason why webbing is commonly used for slings rather than cord. Webbing is flat and therefore maintains more of its strength when bent around the curves of the rock. It should be more cut-resistent than cord of the same strength and weight.
Agreed but I do like stinkyfingers looped rope strands through flat strap idea. Those crane slings of similar construction sit quite flat in fact.
Nov 8, 2007, 12:46 PM
Post #31 of 47
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Re: [catbird_seat] Slinging a chockstone/Threading a sling is:
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catbird_seat wrote:
There is a good reason why webbing is commonly used for slings rather than cord. Webbing is flat and therefore maintains more of its strength when bent around the curves of the rock. It should be more cut-resistent than cord of the same strength and weight.
I'm quite convinced that outside of the lab, the difference in practice is negligible. After all, the recent testing suggests most anything with a tensile strength >10kN is stronger than needed anyway.
Nov 8, 2007, 3:22 PM
Post #32 of 47
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Re: [JohnCook] Slinging a chockstone/Threading a sling is:
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Just curious, how do you guys rack your chicken heads and horns? I guess at the same time... do you prefer to remove the head before the approach or at the base?
Chickens are filthy, loud, pesky little creatures. I could udnerstand chopping the heads off and keeping them in a cooler until you get to the climb.
Horns, on the other hand... I prefer goats because they're easily transportable, and the horns will grow back once you take them off (if done right) so it's more of a waiting game rather than having to continually buy new goats. They can carry stuff too, thereby lightening your load.
Nov 8, 2007, 5:20 PM
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Re: [andypro] Slinging a chockstone/Threading a sling is:
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The chicken heads and the horns (texas longhorns for preference) are the left overs of the meal we had the previous night. Try to avoid any marinade sticking to them as the chemicals can degrade them. The tend to be very quite when in use, with only the odd moan and groan to keep the leaders adrenalin levels up.
Nov 8, 2007, 7:46 PM
Post #36 of 47
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Re: [mtselman] Slinging a chockstone/Threading a sling is:
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I've got a great route for you chicken slingers, http://www.mountainproject.com/v/new_mexico/questa_dome/106054152?highlightphrase=questa+dome& , do the 5.10 variation. The last pitch minus a couple of pieces of pro is entirely protected by slinging chickens.
Nov 10, 2007, 11:30 PM
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Re: [al_piner] Slinging a chockstone/Threading a sling is:
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al_piner wrote:
WOW ! Slinging icicles , freakin' hardcore !
No joke. You can do this very effectively. Ever heard of an Abalokov? It's essentially the same thing. Dispite its appearance, good ice is very strong.
Best, Kim
(This post was edited by kimgraves on Nov 10, 2007, 11:32 PM)
Dec 3, 2007, 11:45 PM
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Re: [kimgraves] Slinging a chockstone/Threading a sling is:
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Besides being great pro, it's also great for bailing, or when you protect a runout sport route with a knot in a nearby constriction (not crack). There's a drilled out machine nut in one of my prusik slings. SOmeday I'll bail off it and have a great story to tell