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jeremy11
Nov 8, 2007, 4:23 AM
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so, I've been on some climbs wishing for really big hexes, like a BD #12 or 13. (or wild country 10 and 11 slung on dyneema  ).
Yes, I know - use big cams - duh... my preference when the crack is good and the rock quality is good. cams have huge expansion forces so placing a big cam behind a fragile flake is not good.....
And there are big bros, which MIGHT be a good answer, but I doubt they are useful like hexes in highly irregular spots where a hex can really be nice.
Plus, giant hexes would just look cool.
we should talk some manufacturer into making a few.
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gunksgoer
Nov 8, 2007, 4:25 AM
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Hexes? Ew.
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climbingaggie03
Nov 8, 2007, 5:02 AM
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doesn't BD make #12 and #13 hexes? I can't remember the numbers, but I remember placing my buddy's huge black one on one of my first leads.
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hanginaround
Nov 8, 2007, 5:22 AM
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climbingaggie03 wrote: doesn't BD make #12 and #13 hexes? I can't remember the numbers, but I remember placing my buddy's huge black one on one of my first leads.
Huge Black One = #11 (or 12" he he...)
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flint
Nov 8, 2007, 6:04 AM
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At that point I like to slam my Nalgene in long ways, sling and push on.
j-
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vegastradguy
Nov 8, 2007, 7:04 AM
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jeremy11 wrote: so placing a big cam behind a fragile flake is not good.....
placing a big hex behind a fragile flake isnt exactly my idea of a good time either....
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epoch
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Nov 8, 2007, 12:44 PM
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They make them in large sizes. After that, you should consider large cams. If, say you're climbing a large detached thin flake, just keep climbing and hope for the best. Big Bros are not cheap. They have their niche. amd when they get used, the are awesome.
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ja1484
Nov 8, 2007, 12:45 PM
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1) Hexes are awesome in the right places.
2) That said, I'm not sure we need bigger hexes. I think Bros would be fine.
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Jbitz
Nov 8, 2007, 1:36 PM
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More then a few times I wish I had a larger hex. I currently have a set of WC rockcentrics. The #9 is 73mm on the long axis. I actually did a little searching a while back and here is what I found for larger hexes.
BD # 11 wired: 89.2mm 206g
Camp Carvex #11 dyneema: 91mm 226g
Yes, big bros and larger cams are an option, but not always the best choice for the situation and a hell of a lot more expensive. I would love to see some larger hexes put out on the market, myself.
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climbingaggie03
Nov 8, 2007, 1:40 PM
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check out big tri-cams, i have the biggest tri-cam and it is wonderful, although I worry about the stinger some times...
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vegastradguy
Nov 8, 2007, 3:51 PM
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Jbitz wrote: Yes, big bros and larger cams are an option, but not always the best choice for the situation and a hell of a lot more expensive. I would love to see some larger hexes put out on the market, myself.
yeah, but the truth is when cracks get big enough that you're talking about bros and bigger cams, the times where they wont work, but a hex will are, well...actually, i cant think of any. (the flake example is a bad one, because i would just skip it and keep climbing- i dont put gear behind hollow flakes)
add that to the fact that the demand for hexes cant be anywhere near the demand for cams, and the likelihood of any new hex development is nil.
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Jbitz
Nov 8, 2007, 8:12 PM
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Many of the crags around where I typically climb it is sometimes difficult to get a good cam placement due to very irregular shape of the cracks. If I had nice vertical parallel-sided cracks. Yes, I would use a bro or cam.
I do use the big bro 4 or 5 on occasion, but I don't see much use for the smaller sizes below the size of a #5 or #6 camalot from my perspective.
Vegastradguy, you are right that there is likely not much of a demand for larger hexes for many reasons. But, I still would like to have at least one size bigger then the violet for the Rockcentrics.
There is nothing like a bomber hex placement!
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jeremy11
Nov 9, 2007, 12:16 AM
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vegastradguy wrote: jeremy11 wrote: so placing a big cam behind a fragile flake is not good..... placing a big hex behind a fragile flake isnt exactly my idea of a good time either....
let me reword.....
not "fragile" like on the verge of falling off.. duh, skip it and go on. More like poor rock quality, crystals that come off easily on the surface, flakes that might be OK for a cam, but I'll use a hex to be on the safe side, irregular cracks,... all the spots where hexes are great, but bigger.
Big tricams would be fun, but are more expensive and exert more outward force than a hex
plus, I climb in the San Juans where the rock is bad.
maybe I'll just get the BD #11 and call it good.
Then there's always my bong-bong piton - 6 inches long, 3.5 inches wide
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flint
Nov 9, 2007, 3:27 AM
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climbingaggie03 wrote: check out big tri-cams, i have the biggest tri-cam and it is wonderful, although I worry about the stinger some times...
Lets be honest... Have you, or anyone for that matter ever placed that beast?
j-
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Jbitz
Nov 9, 2007, 6:04 PM
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I am not to fond of carrying something that might poke me a new one. 
From what I have heard from the few people who have tried them is that they are not as stable as the smaller sizes, but you can say the same thing about cams.
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paintrain
Nov 9, 2007, 10:12 PM
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I don't mean to be rude (but I will probably be anyhow), but nothing says "gomer - epic in the making" than when you see someone headed out with that giant yellow tricam
The #5 camalot has the same range as that silly giant thing and only weighs 4 more ounces.
Pretty no brainer choice as to which one to take (unless you plan on trying to bring down a grizzly with it).
PT
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climbingaggie03
Nov 9, 2007, 10:58 PM
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I placed it 3 times in 3 pitches the first time I climbed with it. I placed it on epinephrine in Red Rocks, and my partner just borrowed it to climb some off widths in an undisclosed location.
It is less stable than the smaller sizes, but no worse than cams.
I love the Number 5 camalot too, but it's so fun to place a huge tri-cam
(This post was edited by climbingaggie03 on Nov 9, 2007, 11:01 PM)
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lonequail
Nov 10, 2007, 12:40 AM
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At either end of the experience spectrum there are climbers who use hexes.
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flint
Nov 11, 2007, 5:32 AM
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lonequail wrote: At either end of the experience spectrum there are climbers who use hexes.
We just need to work on the middle...
j-
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gunkiemike
Nov 11, 2007, 11:58 AM
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Be patient and score some Chouinard tube chocks on EBay. I wish I still had mine. (I'd try to sell them to the OP for $40 each )
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ClimbinBob
Nov 11, 2007, 2:22 PM
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Only trouble with the really big tri-cams is their inherent instability unless you have a really great stance and 2 hands to place them. In addition, they can really bang up your legs (knees) while on your rack. I like the idea of the Nalgene bottle, though.
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paintrain
Nov 11, 2007, 3:21 PM
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Get on you for placing that thing 3 times. I can't say I have ever seen anyone even try.
For years I carried the first 3 tricams on my rack, but I got nothing but complaints from my climbing partners (So they are harder to clean. Stop complaining, your on a toprope).
I feel a bit better about cam placements that big. I call all my friends to borrow them if I am going to do something "largish". Otherwise, I look for small cam placements or just rely on getting my body stuck enough it won't come out.
PT
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