|
dingus
Nov 9, 2007, 5:05 PM
Post #28 of 96
(2833 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Dec 16, 2002
Posts: 17398
|
Here's one: Sending ever more difficult lines is the sole means of measuring the progress of a climber. DMT
|
|
|
|
|
olderic
Nov 9, 2007, 5:11 PM
Post #29 of 96
(2818 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Oct 17, 2003
Posts: 1539
|
blueeyedclimber wrote: Did you stop buy to play word games? Damn - is DMT spending $$$ on you again?
|
|
|
|
|
olderic
Nov 9, 2007, 5:12 PM
Post #30 of 96
(2811 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Oct 17, 2003
Posts: 1539
|
If you backclip you will die a slow and painful death. Never use your knees.
|
|
|
|
|
nivlac
Nov 9, 2007, 5:51 PM
Post #31 of 96
(2746 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Dec 16, 2003
Posts: 141
|
wanderlustmd wrote: Valarc wrote: wanderlustmd wrote: Testing your gear with a jerk mimics a fall. When I jerk my gear, it has nothing to do with testing a fall... That was a joke referencing to another thread. Really? Thought this one transcended all other posts so far... :)
|
|
|
|
|
cracklover
Nov 9, 2007, 6:37 PM
Post #32 of 96
(2681 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Nov 14, 2002
Posts: 10162
|
One former myth: the Euro Death Knot. Well, mostly. A few outliers still think it's unsafe for everyday rappelling. And one that's still kicking: - Marking the middle of your rope with a Sharpie is unsafe. GO
|
|
|
|
|
EPiCJAMES
Nov 9, 2007, 11:34 PM
Post #33 of 96
(2512 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Aug 8, 2007
Posts: 391
|
angry wrote: If you sharpen your skills, it might cut the rope. HAHAHAHAH, rolls over laughing, HAHAHAHA i was told that if i don't boulder with a beanie and no shirt, then i'm not a boulderer at all? and, i heard that all people wearing prana are posers? (looks down at shirt) ahh shiit!!!
|
|
|
|
|
trenchdigger
Nov 10, 2007, 12:06 AM
Post #35 of 96
(2468 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Mar 9, 2003
Posts: 1447
|
blueeyedclimber wrote: Certain things are passed on from generation to generation until they are proven wrong or we just come to our senses and say, "Well, that's just stupid!" Here are a few myths that seem to keep on going: 1. Don't Step on the Rope! Although this isn't really a myth. You definitely should not be trodding all over yours or someone else's rope with your dirty, stinky feet. But...it definitely isn't the deadly evil that has been preached about from the old curmudgeons of climbing's past. 2. Microfractures. Does anybody still believe in this boogeyman? 3. Every anchor should have an upward pull piece. Definitely no, but you should know when you need one. 4. You should retire gear after falling on it. Ha! Ha! Actually this is true, send it to me for proper disposal. 5. The leader should not fall. I think this is pretty much dead in today's day and age, but every once in a while you hear it. But, the leader should know when not to fall. If you want to add some more myths or argue with me about mine, feel free to post. Josh Here's someone else's list... http://onrope1.com/mythbusters.htm
|
|
|
|
|
trenchdigger
Nov 10, 2007, 12:11 AM
Post #36 of 96
(2463 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Mar 9, 2003
Posts: 1447
|
time2clmb wrote: jeff_m wrote: • Don't touch the rope when you're being lowered There is a reason for this. When you take a noob out and they weight the rope for the first time it is hard for some to trust the gear. When the noob gets nervous he / she tend to grab onto the rope and this in turn causes some of the weight to come onto their arms and off of the harness. Unweighting the harness makes it feel like it's not there and makes it seem as though they need to hang on tighter with the arms which causes more weight to come off the harness onto their arms. Next thing you know they are freaking out as their arms start to pump out and they feel like if they let go they will die.....which causes them to freak out even more LMAO. So yeah...it's better to just tell them to let go of the rope and learn to trust the set up Actually IMHO there's a better reason. If you're holding onto the rope when you go over an overhang, you can easily pinch your hand between the rope and the rock if you're not paying attention.
|
|
|
|
|
skiclimb
Nov 10, 2007, 2:05 AM
Post #37 of 96
(2402 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Jan 11, 2004
Posts: 1938
|
One of the worst that has been passed down by no other than "Mountaineering Freedom of the Hills" is this one. I've evenseen guides teach this rediculous crap. Make a backup anchor to your main anchor when doing crevasse rescue. NEVER IN ANY SITUATION MAKE A BACKUP ANCHOR. If not sure about your anchor take whatever you were gonna use for a backup and incorporate all into one anchor. DUUUUUH.
(This post was edited by skiclimb on Nov 10, 2007, 2:06 AM)
|
|
|
|
|
Jbitz
Nov 10, 2007, 2:24 AM
Post #38 of 96
(2388 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Nov 14, 2006
Posts: 124
|
Wow, it took till the second page before the Sharpie on the rope came up.
|
|
|
|
|
marvinz
Nov 10, 2007, 6:53 AM
Post #39 of 96
(2304 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Feb 3, 2006
Posts: 201
|
Myth - the internet is a good place to get advice ... on anything.
|
|
|
|
|
the_chris
Nov 10, 2007, 10:43 PM
Post #40 of 96
(2235 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Mar 18, 2007
Posts: 16
|
zealotnoob wrote: What's the deal with "point loading," i.e., never load a biner clipped to another biner...myth, right? Point loading or clipping a draw on a draw is dangerous. Much more force is placed on the biner because Pressure=force x area.the force will stay the same and the area is reduced, so the pressure is increased almost exponentially. More pressure will cause extra stress on the biner. the reason a sling is used between the biners is because the force is on a bigger area.
|
|
|
|
|
phillygoat
Nov 10, 2007, 10:59 PM
Post #41 of 96
(2217 views)
Shortcut
Registered: May 22, 2004
Posts: 428
|
Wow, I guess I'll start slinging hangers immediately!
|
|
|
|
|
microbarn
Nov 10, 2007, 11:08 PM
Post #42 of 96
(2203 views)
Shortcut
Registered: May 12, 2004
Posts: 5920
|
the_chris wrote: zealotnoob wrote: What's the deal with "point loading," i.e., never load a biner clipped to another biner...myth, right? Point loading or clipping a draw on a draw is dangerous. Much more force is placed on the biner because Pressure=force x area.the force will stay the same and the area is reduced, so the pressure is increased almost exponentially. More pressure will cause extra stress on the biner. the reason a sling is used between the biners is because the force is on a bigger area. read the thread...cause you are wrong, and everything is already explained above
|
|
|
|
|
jt512
Nov 10, 2007, 11:39 PM
Post #43 of 96
(2180 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Apr 12, 2001
Posts: 21904
|
the_chris wrote: zealotnoob wrote: What's the deal with "point loading," i.e., never load a biner clipped to another biner...myth, right? Point loading or clipping a draw on a draw is dangerous. Much more force is placed on the biner because Pressure=force x area.the force will stay the same and the area is reduced, so the pressure is increased almost exponentially. More pressure will cause extra stress on the biner. the reason a sling is used between the biners is because the force is on a bigger area. It would be interesting to find out where this idiotic myth started. I'd never heard it before, and now it appears twice in this thread. Jay
|
|
|
|
|
Valarc
Nov 11, 2007, 12:12 AM
Post #44 of 96
(2159 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Apr 20, 2007
Posts: 1473
|
the_chris wrote: Much more force is placed on the biner ... the force will stay the same So which one is it? The only danger in clipping 'biner to 'biner is the potential to twist around and all the bad stuff that happens when 'biners twist against one another. Please leave the pseudo-physics based explanations to people who actually understand physics
|
|
|
|
|
norushnomore
Nov 12, 2007, 2:06 AM
Post #45 of 96
(2053 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Nov 4, 2002
Posts: 414
|
marvinz wrote: Myth - the internet is a good place to get advice ... on anything. Or may be the other way around? Myth: internet is not the good place to get advice ... on anything ;)
|
|
|
|
|
flint
Nov 12, 2007, 2:37 AM
Post #46 of 96
(2016 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Jun 21, 2007
Posts: 543
|
High end sport climbers prefer to have the route pre-ticked... j-
|
|
|
|
|
rockguide
Nov 12, 2007, 2:50 AM
Post #47 of 96
(1997 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Nov 8, 2004
Posts: 1359
|
the_chris wrote: zealotnoob wrote: What's the deal with "point loading," i.e., never load a biner clipped to another biner...myth, right? Point loading or clipping a draw on a draw is dangerous. Much more force is placed on the biner because Pressure=force x area.the force will stay the same and the area is reduced, so the pressure is increased almost exponentially. More pressure will cause extra stress on the biner. the reason a sling is used between the biners is because the force is on a bigger area. This is the funniest thing I have read in this thread. You have to be trolling.
|
|
|
|
|
stymingersfink
Nov 12, 2007, 7:15 AM
Post #48 of 96
(1926 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Aug 12, 2003
Posts: 7250
|
PT
|
|
|
|
|
stymingersfink
Nov 12, 2007, 7:16 AM
Post #49 of 96
(1925 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Aug 12, 2003
Posts: 7250
|
FT
|
|
|
|
|
stymingersfink
Nov 12, 2007, 7:16 AM
Post #50 of 96
(1924 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Aug 12, 2003
Posts: 7250
|
W!
|
|
|
|
|
|