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lucander


Nov 9, 2007, 4:49 PM
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Re: [microbarn] Climbing Myths [In reply to]
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microbarn wrote:
some people think their spine will explode when they top rope on a static rope.

People who toprope at the Gunks should have their spines explode Tongue
In reply to:


Partner jeff_m


Nov 9, 2007, 4:52 PM
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Re: [angry] Climbing Myths [In reply to]
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angry wrote:
If you sharpen your skills, it might cut the rope.




dingus


Nov 9, 2007, 5:05 PM
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Re: [jeff_m] Climbing Myths [In reply to]
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Here's one:

Sending ever more difficult lines is the sole means of measuring the progress of a climber.

DMT


olderic


Nov 9, 2007, 5:11 PM
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Re: [blueeyedclimber] Climbing Myths [In reply to]
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blueeyedclimber wrote:
Did you stop buy to play word games?

Damn - is DMT spending $$$ on you again?


olderic


Nov 9, 2007, 5:12 PM
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Re: [zealotnoob] Climbing Myths [In reply to]
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If you backclip you will die a slow and painful death.

Never use your knees.


nivlac


Nov 9, 2007, 5:51 PM
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Re: [wanderlustmd] Climbing Myths [In reply to]
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wanderlustmd wrote:
Valarc wrote:
wanderlustmd wrote:
Testing your gear with a jerk mimics a fall.

When I jerk my gear, it has nothing to do with testing a fall...

That was a joke referencing to another thread.

Really? Thought this one transcended all other posts so far... :)


Partner cracklover


Nov 9, 2007, 6:37 PM
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Re: [nivlac] Climbing Myths [In reply to]
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One former myth: the Euro Death Knot. Well, mostly. A few outliers still think it's unsafe for everyday rappelling.

And one that's still kicking:

- Marking the middle of your rope with a Sharpie is unsafe.

GO


EPiCJAMES


Nov 9, 2007, 11:34 PM
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Re: [angry] Climbing Myths [In reply to]
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angry wrote:
If you sharpen your skills, it might cut the rope.

HAHAHAHAH, rolls over laughing, HAHAHAHA

i was told that if i don't boulder with a beanie and no shirt, then i'm not a boulderer at all?

and, i heard that all people wearing prana are posers? (looks down at shirt) ahh shiit!!!


time2clmb


Nov 9, 2007, 11:51 PM
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Re: [jeff_m] Climbing Myths [In reply to]
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jeff_m wrote:
• Don't touch the rope when you're being lowered

There is a reason for this.

When you take a noob out and they weight the rope for the first time it is hard for some to trust the gear. When the noob gets nervous he / she tend to grab onto the rope and this in turn causes some of the weight to come onto their arms and off of the harness. Unweighting the harness makes it feel like it's not there and makes it seem as though they need to hang on tighter with the arms which causes more weight to come off the harness onto their arms. Next thing you know they are freaking out as their arms start to pump out and they feel like if they let go they will die.....which causes them to freak out even more LMAO.

So yeah...it's better to just tell them to let go of the rope and learn to trust the set up Tongue


trenchdigger


Nov 10, 2007, 12:06 AM
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Re: [blueeyedclimber] Climbing Myths [In reply to]
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blueeyedclimber wrote:
Certain things are passed on from generation to generation until they are proven wrong or we just come to our senses and say, "Well, that's just stupid!" Here are a few myths that seem to keep on going:

1. Don't Step on the Rope! Although this isn't really a myth. You definitely should not be trodding all over yours or someone else's rope with your dirty, stinky feet. But...it definitely isn't the deadly evil that has been preached about from the old curmudgeons of climbing's past.

2. Microfractures. Does anybody still believe in this boogeyman?

3. Every anchor should have an upward pull piece. Definitely no, but you should know when you need one.

4. You should retire gear after falling on it. Ha! Ha! Actually this is true, send it to me for proper disposal.

5. The leader should not fall. I think this is pretty much dead in today's day and age, but every once in a while you hear it. But, the leader should know when not to fall.

If you want to add some more myths or argue with me about mine, feel free to post.

Josh

Here's someone else's list...
http://onrope1.com/mythbusters.htm


trenchdigger


Nov 10, 2007, 12:11 AM
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Re: [time2clmb] Climbing Myths [In reply to]
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time2clmb wrote:
jeff_m wrote:
• Don't touch the rope when you're being lowered

There is a reason for this.

When you take a noob out and they weight the rope for the first time it is hard for some to trust the gear. When the noob gets nervous he / she tend to grab onto the rope and this in turn causes some of the weight to come onto their arms and off of the harness. Unweighting the harness makes it feel like it's not there and makes it seem as though they need to hang on tighter with the arms which causes more weight to come off the harness onto their arms. Next thing you know they are freaking out as their arms start to pump out and they feel like if they let go they will die.....which causes them to freak out even more LMAO.

So yeah...it's better to just tell them to let go of the rope and learn to trust the set up Tongue

Actually IMHO there's a better reason. If you're holding onto the rope when you go over an overhang, you can easily pinch your hand between the rope and the rock if you're not paying attention.


skiclimb


Nov 10, 2007, 2:05 AM
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Re: [trenchdigger] Climbing Myths [In reply to]
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One of the worst that has been passed down by no other than "Mountaineering Freedom of the Hills" is this one. I've evenseen guides teach this rediculous crap.

Make a backup anchor to your main anchor when doing crevasse rescue.

NEVER IN ANY SITUATION MAKE A BACKUP ANCHOR. If not sure about your anchor take whatever you were gonna use for a backup and incorporate all into one anchor. DUUUUUH.


(This post was edited by skiclimb on Nov 10, 2007, 2:06 AM)


Jbitz


Nov 10, 2007, 2:24 AM
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Re: [cracklover] Climbing Myths [In reply to]
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Wow, it took till the second page before the Sharpie on the rope came up.


marvinz


Nov 10, 2007, 6:53 AM
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Re: [Jbitz] Climbing Myths [In reply to]
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Myth - the internet is a good place to get advice ... on anything.


the_chris


Nov 10, 2007, 10:43 PM
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Re: [zealotnoob] Climbing Myths [In reply to]
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zealotnoob wrote:
What's the deal with "point loading," i.e., never load a biner clipped to another biner...myth, right?

Point loading or clipping a draw on a draw is dangerous. Much more force is placed on the biner because Pressure=force x area.the force will stay the same and the area is reduced, so the pressure is increased almost exponentially. More pressure will cause extra stress on the biner. the reason a sling is used between the biners is because the force is on a bigger area.


phillygoat


Nov 10, 2007, 10:59 PM
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Re: [the_chris] Climbing Myths [In reply to]
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Wow, I guess I'll start slinging hangers immediately!


microbarn


Nov 10, 2007, 11:08 PM
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Re: [the_chris] Climbing Myths [In reply to]
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the_chris wrote:
zealotnoob wrote:
What's the deal with "point loading," i.e., never load a biner clipped to another biner...myth, right?

Point loading or clipping a draw on a draw is dangerous. Much more force is placed on the biner because Pressure=force x area.the force will stay the same and the area is reduced, so the pressure is increased almost exponentially. More pressure will cause extra stress on the biner. the reason a sling is used between the biners is because the force is on a bigger area.

read the thread...cause you are wrong, and everything is already explained above


jt512


Nov 10, 2007, 11:39 PM
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Re: [the_chris] Climbing Myths [In reply to]
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the_chris wrote:
zealotnoob wrote:
What's the deal with "point loading," i.e., never load a biner clipped to another biner...myth, right?

Point loading or clipping a draw on a draw is dangerous. Much more force is placed on the biner because Pressure=force x area.the force will stay the same and the area is reduced, so the pressure is increased almost exponentially. More pressure will cause extra stress on the biner. the reason a sling is used between the biners is because the force is on a bigger area.

It would be interesting to find out where this idiotic myth started. I'd never heard it before, and now it appears twice in this thread.

Jay


Valarc


Nov 11, 2007, 12:12 AM
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Re: [the_chris] Climbing Myths [In reply to]
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the_chris wrote:
Much more force is placed on the biner
...
the force will stay the same

So which one is it? The only danger in clipping 'biner to 'biner is the potential to twist around and all the bad stuff that happens when 'biners twist against one another. Please leave the pseudo-physics based explanations to people who actually understand physics


norushnomore


Nov 12, 2007, 2:06 AM
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Re: [marvinz] Climbing Myths [In reply to]
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marvinz wrote:
Myth - the internet is a good place to get advice ... on anything.

Or may be the other way around?

Myth: internet is not the good place to get advice ... on anything ;)


flint


Nov 12, 2007, 2:37 AM
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Re: [blueeyedclimber] Climbing Myths [In reply to]
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High end sport climbers prefer to have the route pre-ticked...

j-


rockguide


Nov 12, 2007, 2:50 AM
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Re: [the_chris] Climbing Myths [In reply to]
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the_chris wrote:
zealotnoob wrote:
What's the deal with "point loading," i.e., never load a biner clipped to another biner...myth, right?

Point loading or clipping a draw on a draw is dangerous. Much more force is placed on the biner because Pressure=force x area.the force will stay the same and the area is reduced, so the pressure is increased almost exponentially. More pressure will cause extra stress on the biner. the reason a sling is used between the biners is because the force is on a bigger area.

This is the funniest thing I have read in this thread. You have to be trolling.


stymingersfink


Nov 12, 2007, 7:15 AM
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Re: [rockguide] Climbing Myths [In reply to]
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PT


stymingersfink


Nov 12, 2007, 7:16 AM
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FT


stymingersfink


Nov 12, 2007, 7:16 AM
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W!

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