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maldaly
Nov 19, 2007, 1:45 AM
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Hi Gang,
I just wanted to let you know that we've posted up video instructions for a lot of our gear. Don't know why we didn't do it earlier. You'll find instructions for the Maxcams, Cinch, Alpine Equaizer, Big Bros, B-52 and the Squid. They're on YouTube but a common link is here: http://www.trango.com/videos.php
I apologize in advance for being the model but, hey, SAG rates are killer.
Climb Safe,
Mal
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ja1484
Nov 19, 2007, 1:47 AM
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Good on ya, especially for stuff like the Bros that many people are ill informed about.
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spikeddem
Nov 19, 2007, 2:01 AM
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"So you can use the Cinch and not learn any bad habits!"
Simultaneously going hand-over-hand on the brake side of the rope! LOL
edit: I've also always been under the impression that the belay isn't on until the climber has clipped a bolt/jesus nut. True/false?
(This post was edited by spikeddem on Nov 19, 2007, 2:16 AM)
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Vinny_A
Nov 19, 2007, 2:04 AM
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I never knew what the deal with big bros was, now that I know wow thats an awesome idea.
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ja1484
Nov 19, 2007, 2:19 AM
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spikeddem wrote: edit: I've also always been under the impression that the belay isn't on until the climber has clipped a bolt/jesus nut. True/false?
False. There are times when people belay from above the ground y'know. The belay is on any time you can/are responsible for securing the rope to prevent your partner from taking a digger.
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spikeddem
Nov 19, 2007, 2:32 AM
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ja1484 wrote: spikeddem wrote: edit: I've also always been under the impression that the belay isn't on until the climber has clipped a bolt/jesus nut. True/false? False. There are times when people belay from above the ground y'know. The belay is on any time you can/are responsible for securing the rope to prevent your partner from taking a digger.
Sorry for not being specific. In the video he is lead belaying from the ground. Rather than spotting, he says "Belay is on" and then belays (actually, he talks to the camera). As long as the climber has not placed any protection and the climber started the current pitch from terra firma, it is impossible for the belayer to stop the fall by arresting the rope. In such a case, a partner is only useful as a spotter.
I certainly understand that you better be belaying, not spotting, your partner on the first moves of the sixth pitch! 
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toejam
Nov 19, 2007, 2:40 AM
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Cool. I was fooling around with a cinch the other day, but wasn't sure exactly how I should adapt my gri-gri technique. Very helpful.
I didn't notice anything wrong with the hand-over-hand technique, but flipping the hand over on the rope (when clipping the carabiner on the leg loop) would be dangerous with a tube device. I chewed holy heck out of someone the other day for doing exactly that.
Yeah, I consider belay on as soon as my climber gets going. I might be simply spotting him and making sure that the rope isn't being impeded, or I might be keeping him from decking past the belay. It's vaguely annoying when people say "belay on" after the first placement, but then I'm not really into the "belay on" thing anyway. If my partner isn't aware enough to realize when I start climbing, I don't want him on the lead belay.
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ja1484
Nov 19, 2007, 2:49 AM
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spikeddem wrote: ja1484 wrote: spikeddem wrote: edit: I've also always been under the impression that the belay isn't on until the climber has clipped a bolt/jesus nut. True/false? False. There are times when people belay from above the ground y'know. The belay is on any time you can/are responsible for securing the rope to prevent your partner from taking a digger. Sorry for not being specific. In the video he is lead belaying from the ground. Rather than spotting, he says "Belay is on" and then belays (actually, he talks to the camera). As long as the climber has not placed any protection and the climber started the current pitch from terra firma, it is impossible for the belayer to stop the fall by arresting the rope. In such a case, a partner is only useful as a spotter. I certainly understand that you better be belaying, not spotting, your partner on the first moves of the sixth pitch!
Yeah, I was kinda givin' you crap
The actual definition of belay is:
Merriam-Webster wrote: Main Entry: 1be·lay Listen to the pronunciation of 1belay Pronunciation: \bi-ˈlā, bē-\ Function: verb Inflected Form(s): be·layed; be·lay·ing Etymology: Middle English beleggen to beset, from Old English belecgan, from be- + lecgan to lay Date: 1549 transitive verb 1 a: to secure (as a rope) by turns around a cleat, pin, or bitt b: to make fast 2: stop 3 a: to secure (a person) at the end of a rope b: to secure (a rope) to a person or object intransitive verb 1: to be made fast 2: stop, quit —used in the imperative <belay there> 3: to make a line fast by turns around a cleat, pin, or bitt — be·lay·er Listen to the pronunciation of belayer \-ər\ noun
So there you have it - if you can't stop their fall with the rope, then you're not belaying :)
The interesting thing to keep in mind is that if your climber should run it out to groundfall or beyond above their last piece of pro, they are actually back off belay regardless of your actions until they secure new protection. Something to think about, eh?
(This post was edited by ja1484 on Nov 19, 2007, 2:51 AM)
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coastal_climber
Nov 19, 2007, 3:02 AM
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maldaly wrote: Hi Gang, I just wanted to let you know that we've posted up video instructions for a lot of our gear. Don't know why we didn't do it earlier. You'll find instructions for the Maxcams, Cinch, Alpine Equaizer, Big Bros, B-52 and the Squid. They're on YouTube but a common link is here: http://www.trango.com/videos.php I apologize in advance for being the model but, hey, SAG rates are killer. Climb Safe, Mal
Excellent. I am looking at some Trango Cams at the moment.
>Cam
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vegastradguy
Nov 19, 2007, 7:09 PM
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mal-
great idea- thanks so much!
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yokese
Nov 20, 2007, 10:13 PM
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Mal, excellent videos, thanks a lot.
Some questions, though this may not be the best thread...
1. what the h$ck were you looking at your right side every 5 seconds in the cinch video??
and these more serious ones:
2. doesn't the alpine equalizer lose "equalization" if you tie clove hitch knots in the arms to avoid extension? How well does it work with only two anchor points?
3. how dynamic/static is the Cinch compared to the Grigri or the Sum?
And now, to the store I go to get some BigBros....
Cheers
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docjacen
Nov 20, 2007, 10:20 PM
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yokese wrote: And now, to the store I go to get some BigBros.... Cheers
No kidding, makes me want some!
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maldaly
Nov 21, 2007, 4:04 AM
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Yokese, I don't know what I was looking at but I remember re-shooting it without those stupid glances. Don't know what happened to that footage. Maybe I was picking my nose or something.
If you tie clove-hitches in the arms of an AE anchor you don't lose EQ but you do lose the ability to dynamically EQ. That means you have to stay in the same spot that you set the anchor for. Same with tying a master knot.
The Cinch will lock up a bit more abruptly that the Grigri. It's probably wrong to say that one is more dynamic or static that the other because of this. It's more of a feeling. Some like it, some don't. The Cinch does slip at about 7kN (That's a serious fall BTW) reducing the total load on the system. We like that feature.
Mal
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tigerlilly
Jan 27, 2008, 4:20 PM
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How 'bout a video showing proper placements for the Ballnutz, too?
Kathy
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maldaly
Jan 28, 2008, 5:05 AM
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tigerlilly,
Those are next on the list. Hopefully sometime this year.
Mal
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tigerlilly
Jan 29, 2008, 1:49 PM
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Thanks, Phillip! That's good info.
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dlew308
Jan 29, 2008, 4:26 PM
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thanks for putting up the videos, very useful!
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microbarn
Jan 29, 2008, 5:38 PM
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I think a video showing the autoblocking capabilities of a B52 would be good too. Please add that to your list after the ball-nutz video.
Thanks for the great work.
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tigerlilly
Feb 1, 2008, 3:03 AM
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j_ung wrote: tigerlilly wrote: How 'bout a video showing proper placements for the Ballnutz, too? Kathy Tsk. Your parents should have taught you about such things. 
LOL!
Fortunately Mal knew what I meant. Either that, or he's planning a new career...
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