So with a day off from life I decidid to make the treck over to glen canyon park and try some real outdoor rockclimbing.
The first thing that i noticed was the height of the problems, the top out along the main wall is from 15-20 with an awfull landing area, so bad that pads would be nearly useless. The rock is sharp,all the problems have danger factors on them well beyond broken ankles or legs.

I did a 5.6r , a 5.8r , a V0 and a V0R. That last one scared the crap out of me when the last hold I went for flaked on me when I applied weight to it. I was manteling over the the edge of a short roof, about10 feet above a nasty rocky no pad landing. The hold was a square box of this chirt sticking out from a flat face, it had no chalk on it but was right were I needed to grab hold, but when I put just a little weight on it it moved, and freaked me out. I found another point and moved on but it made me wonder if I want to boulder or sport/trad climb. those seem safer with belaying and protection and all. I like to push my limits, I do not like to push my luck

After I got to the top I leaned over and pushed on the top of that hold, it came off pretty darn easy and I got to watch the chunk of rock take the plunge I would have had I trusted it.

n00b is not the proper term, it doesnt relate the serious life threatining qualities we novice climbers bring to the table, I suggest F^!#ing New Guy, or FNG for short. Its a military term and implies not just a recent arrival or a lack of ability, but also that an FNG is a dangerous thing to themselves and others.

btw is that an onsight, to climb a problem without seeing anything but how it looks from the base and not talking to anyone about it that has done the climb before? Any more rules to that? Am i annoying for asking?

After I got to the top I leaned over and pushed on the top of that hold, it came off pretty darn easy and I got to watch the chunk of rock take the plunge

Don't do that.

>Cam

Don't do that.

>Cam

I'm not really into bouldering, but what's a V0r. Is that a V0 with runouts?

I dunno really, it just said that in the guide book, I do know that it was serious injury or death to fall. I think it means something about "risk" or "retarded without a rope" or something like that. Whats a run out?

There was a V0 R/X route, it looked not to bad except for the fall. The fall was not worth it, or to mentaly intimidating for me to deal with :oP

I'd like to continue a more comical approach to this troll but now I think I really do have a question. Can someone tell me if there was some sort of change to v-scale to include a protection rating... if what the op is saying is true, could someone explain this to me? Is an x rated bouldering problem one with a high probability of the crash pad blowing away or something? Or maybe a high probability of your spotter adjusting his beanie or picking his nose or something during a fall?

wow, so I am a troll for posting a storey aand question in the beginners forum? If so this is about the most unfriendly forum I have ever visited. I thought snot nosed 13 year old video gamers were as rude as they come but you have just proved me wrong. I guess climbing isnt as cool a scene as it seemed at first, the activity is fun but the people, you in particular, seem a bit asshatish.

since you have over 2000 posts here I dont expect the verbal abuse will ever end so you win pal, I will look for a different climbing forum more friendly to anew guy just trying to meet people and have some fun.

have fun with yourself.

edit:btw 2663 posts since augest of 06 is 5.7 posts PER DAY! Who is the troll? Do you even go outside?

edit:btw 2663 posts since augest of 06 is 5.7 posts PER DAY! Who is the troll? Do you even go outside?

I would not disfigure a nice inocent rock, but this small chunk of rock about 2 inches by 2 inches and about 1/2 in deepth was not going to be missed except by the next climber coming over the top of that roof, and the thing released with about 8 ounces of force (read as one finger gently pressing). You seriously got a problem with that? I didnt take a hammer to a jug or something, I pressed with one finger, and not even my thumb!

Edit: Ok maybe it was more then 8 ounces, but no more then I could apply with the fourth finger on my weak left hand

hrmm I think the R is another way of saying highball that doesnt take up as much space in a book or on a tv screen. That is my best guess as to why it doesnt say "highball" or "very freaking dangerous", it would make the little headers for each route kinda wordy and cost more to print, as well as the video editing situation were you must consider things being watched on fairly small screens and avoid long wordy (and therefore smaller type face) titles and subtitles.

Or not.

Are the trolling sarcasm farmers this bad all the time? I meen c'mon the level of this banter is about 8th grade. Are any of them actualy witty and ironic or is this as good as it gets? Its somewhat funny to see the word n00b used like it wasnt beat to death by beta .7 of counter strike. You do know your using a term straight from video gaming, dont you? To make matters even worse you are adding £337sp34|< to it with the zeros making you guys the most pathetic bunch of old farts trying to act like 13 year olds I have ever seen. Trully bizare how trends filter through our culture. Reminds me of Vancover's crazy fascination with featherd haircuts in like 1990. Very strange indeed.

...I noticed it in clips from bouldering videos on youtube (problems labeled from v3r to v12xxx in the movie soulcal for one example)...

If you own the Soul Cal video I suggest destroying it immediately. If you were viewing a friend's copy I suggest destroying that copy and then bitch-slapping your "friend".

d.

Edit: Anyway, you started off the n00b thing in the title..

about 8 ounces of force

I'd like to continue a more comical approach to this troll but now I think I really do have a question. Can someone tell me if there was some sort of change to v-scale to include a protection rating... if what the op is saying is true, could someone explain this to me? Is an x rated bouldering problem one with a high probability of the crash pad blowing away or something? Or maybe a high probability of your spotter adjusting his beanie or picking his nose or something during a fall?

wow, so I am a troll for posting a storey aand question in the beginners forum? If so this is about the most unfriendly forum I have ever visited. I thought snot nosed 13 year old video gamers were as rude as they come but you have just proved me wrong. I guess climbing isnt as cool a scene as it seemed at first, the activity is fun but the people, you in particular, seem a bit asshatish.

since you have over 2000 posts here I dont expect the verbal abuse will ever end so you win pal, I will look for a different climbing forum more friendly to anew guy just trying to meet people and have some fun.

have fun with yourself.

edit:btw 2663 posts since augest of 06 is 5.7 posts PER DAY! Who is the troll? Do you even go outside?