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sparky
Oct 16, 2002, 2:47 AM
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What type of drill is needed to place bolts (i know its impact) but whta do the rpm's and stuff need to be and what are all the other stats i should look for when i'm ready to drop 500 bucks on a drill?
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jbrd528
Oct 16, 2002, 3:39 AM
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Bosch Annihilator, the only one. There are other drills out there that will work but this is probably the best one for rock climbing applications. But this is something that you should probably already know if you want to place bolts. You better make sure you know what you are doing before you start placing bolts. Alot of lives will be depending on the bolts that YOU places.
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jhundrup
Oct 16, 2002, 3:41 AM
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Just make sure that it is a hammer drill. If you are going to use it maily for bolting than get one with an SDS shank. Straight shank bits don't work well for drilling into rock.
Any industrial supply store will carry good hammer drills. I personally like Bosch, but that is mainly because that is what I have experience with, Bosch, Metabo, Miluakee, and Dewalt, but there are many other brands.
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tigerbythetail
Oct 16, 2002, 4:56 AM
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Why do you want a drill to place bolts? If it's to put up routes, get in lots of climbing and learn from an experienced local so you do things the right way.
Perhaps your $500 would better be spent on a rack.
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lox
Oct 16, 2002, 8:59 AM
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Quote:Perhaps your $500 would better be spent on a rack.
Strip clubs are fun.
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shawkshaw
Oct 16, 2002, 10:57 AM
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nah go with the Hilti TE 6A- how can you beat a 36 Volt 12A cordless hammer drill. the most powerful around. does in excess of 40 holes before charging is needed. Which takes 30 minutes. it weight 5 kilograms(sorry dont know what that is in pounds) but you can get a dummy battery pack (which i use) so that the battery can attach to your harness and a cord runs to the drill. its long enough so it doesn't cause any restrictions either. that takes off half the weight so the drill is now only 2.5 Kgs. SDS chuck rotary hammer (the style of hammer you want)try beating that. and they are very good quality too.
check it out on www.hilti.com
steve
ive seen them on ebay in the states cheap as too (realively speaking)
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sparky
Oct 16, 2002, 10:09 PM
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Why do you want a drill to place bolts? If it's to put up routes, get in lots of climbing and learn from an experienced local so you do things the right way.
Perhaps your $500 would better be spent on a rack.
I have a rack, ( a super nice one to) i'm setting up rap anchors and a bolt ladder for now
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hugepedro
Oct 16, 2002, 10:40 PM
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Not to be "ageist", but the thought of an 18 year old placing bolts makes me a little bit uneasy.
Not that you don't have the ability to do it, but I wonder if you have enough years of climbing under your belt to possess the knowledge and experience required to do it in an appropriate manner.
You may already be taking this approach, but please follow your local ethics, and discuss your project with other respected bolters in your area.
Remember, bolting is probably the single biggest cause of conflict within the climbing community, and sometimes those conflicts can boil over into the non-climbing world. When that happens, politicians and governmental agencies often see a need to get involved with what we do, and regulate us, and deny access.
Maybe none of this is new to you, and if that's the case, sorry for playing the "old-guy-says-you-don't-know-what-yer-doing" card, that's not my intention.
Just think about it, that's all I'm saying.
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tigerbythetail
Oct 17, 2002, 12:25 AM
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Well I'm glad you have a rack, but again what business do you have placing anchors? I stand by my earlier comment- get in lots of climbing, learn the art of placing bolts from a very experienced local and run your idea for bolts/anchors past a variety of local climbers (not just your buds). As for a bolt ladder...that's just what any climbing area needs- another bolt ladder. My suggetion to you if you want to place a bolt ladder is to drill it by hand, on lead...that ought to make you think twice about another one! Lots of luck.
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sparky
Oct 31, 2002, 12:15 AM
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thanks for the input
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bolder
Nov 5, 2002, 7:47 PM
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Why don't you ask your cousin, boltakrak, he has put up more routes than he can count. I mean, if he is using your computer anyways, he is right there with the answers.
http://www.rockclimbing.com/forums/viewtopic.php?topic=18819&forum=18&9
[ This Message was edited by: bolder on 2002-11-05 13:45 ]
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rocknpowda
Nov 5, 2002, 8:27 PM
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They were selling Dan Osman's Bosch Bulldog at the Black Diamond swap a few weeks ago. The money was to be donated to some good cause. You could call the BD store in SLC and see if they know how to get ahold of the seller.
I had/have-somewhere a Bosch Bulldog that I bought used. It would work alot better but I think the charger and batteries are shot. If you got the money though, get a HILTI!
Personally, I say buy the drill, drill smart, and enjoy. Oh yeah, and remember quality of the routes you put up is more important than quantity.
You will probably want to learn how to drill and place bolts in an obscure hidden location on the ground way in the middle of nowhere so that when you start putting bolts on routes they will be bomber. Like one poster said-many people's lives will depend on the bolts you put in.
When I was more actively putting up routes the power drill was sweet and there were not restrictions where I was using it. Now I usually just use a hand drill because it isn't worth carrying a huge power drill up alot of pitches just to put anchors in on some obscure piece of desert sandstone.
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kingsmm
Oct 15, 2003, 5:40 AM
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If a climb can be TR but would need to anchor from trees 100+ ft away. Whats your opinion if it should be bolted? What about TR bolts? To reach the bolts safely you would need to be on belay or somthing because of the slopeing ground above.
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boltdude
Oct 15, 2003, 6:05 AM
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The golden rule of bolting: If you have to ask, don't bolt.
As far as your question - the amount of information you've provided invites no serious responses, since you didn't tell us the area, it's history, other routes, whether there are loose rocks between the anchor 100' away, etc, etc, etc. The details you would need to provide to really answer your question would fill pages.
Find some climbers who've been active at your area for at least 10-15 years and ask them, if they don't know they'll know who to ask. If you can't find people like that, follow the golden rule.
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caughtinside
Oct 15, 2003, 9:45 PM
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Hard to say exactly, but it sounds like it would make a good sport climb
:P
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overlord
Oct 15, 2003, 9:52 PM
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In reply to: Hard to say exactly, but it sounds like it would make a good sport climb :P
i agree, but were both gonna get it now... just wait... 8)
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caughtinside
Oct 15, 2003, 9:57 PM
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Damn straight! Get the 80' of webbing out of the truck!
:twisted:
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slablizard
Oct 15, 2003, 10:42 PM
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Bolt it. Why TR when you can lead ?
What's this thing against bolts? You really thing that a piece of steel in the middle of nowhere is going to change Mother Nature?
I would worry more about other things then bolts.
That said please do it the best possible way, with the fewer-best placed possible bolts
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lexmark
Oct 15, 2003, 10:48 PM
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Bolt it or Kill trees.
Hmmmm. Seems easy to me.
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flagstaff_climber
Oct 15, 2003, 10:48 PM
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I agree, I cannot wait until they come up with a stapler bolt setter, so you can punch one in whenever you need one. This would be especially useful in J Tree me thinks :)
Rick
"A bolting stance is a terrible thing to waste....."
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slablizard
Oct 15, 2003, 10:50 PM
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You mean the bolt-gun of Stallone in Cliffhanger wasn't real?? :shock:
lol
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trad_mike
Oct 15, 2003, 10:54 PM
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The toprope can probably be set up with pro. No need to bolt if there are three good gear placements on top.
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flagstaff_climber
Oct 15, 2003, 11:04 PM
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In reply to: You mean the bolt-gun of Stallone in Cliffhanger wasn't real?? :shock: lol
Yea it's real....but mine keeps getting jammed and the recoil is a b*tch.
Rick
"What do I tie this rope to when I Lay you ?"
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slablizard
Oct 15, 2003, 11:05 PM
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LOL!
Loved the scene when the harness opens up sliding like a snake! Ahhh Mountain movies!
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sava6e
Jun 7, 2004, 1:17 AM
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as far as i have read this is a very touchy subject, as it should be, one bad bolt and people can die. no joke. what i am interested in is learning, is there anyone or anywhere to learn how to do it, i am willing to take my time in learning the right way and in NO hurry to go out and do something stupid as bolt a route, however i am interested in eventually bolting some routes, i am very patient and willling to learn from those qualified to do so. i also have had tons of concrete experience under my belt, not to say that qualifies me in any way but by what i have read is somewhat similar. i live in the bay area of california for the summer and am in school in oregon during the rest of the year. so if anyone knows of anyone or anywhere i can gain some skills to learn what it takes. thanx
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