|
colatownkid
Nov 28, 2007, 1:28 PM
Post #1 of 10
(3715 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Nov 27, 2007
Posts: 512
|
This question has been bugging me for a little while and my google searches and older edition of FOTH have been unable to answer it. So...how do you self-belay on lead? I know that it is necessary for block leading, but the only thing I can find are vague references to soloists and clove hitches.
|
|
|
|
|
wanderlustmd
Nov 28, 2007, 1:40 PM
Post #2 of 10
(3708 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Oct 24, 2006
Posts: 8150
|
You fix (tie) one end of the rope to a BOMBER multidirectional anchor, then attach a self belay device to the rope. This can be a clove hitch, grigri, silent partner, etc. The solo device feeds out slack slowly as you advance but locks up if you fall.
There is more to this system than just the above, but that's the gist.
|
|
|
|
|
reg
Nov 28, 2007, 2:37 PM
Post #3 of 10
(3678 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Nov 10, 2004
Posts: 1560
|
"Your search for self-belay returned 1460 results"
that's what the search function is there for - use it then ask relevent questions
edit: joined yesterday - trolled today. should've seen it commin!
(This post was edited by reg on Nov 28, 2007, 2:39 PM)
|
|
|
|
|
azrockclimber
Nov 28, 2007, 2:59 PM
Post #4 of 10
(3656 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Jan 28, 2005
Posts: 666
|
colatownkid wrote: This question has been bugging me for a little while and my google searches and older edition of FOTH have been unable to answer it. So...how do you self-belay on lead? I know that it is necessary for block leading, but the only thing I can find are vague references to soloists and clove hitches.
I have done quite a bit of this.
And truly...leading on self belay is just a bad idea. and its not very fun.
When I had to climb alone I switched to climbs that I could hike to the top of... set an anchor and then rap down the single line... and "top rope" solo the route with my soloist device. that was fun.
The nice thing about that was I could get a 200 foot section in with one rope as long as it didn't meander too much.... I've knocked out thousands of feet in a day like that on Mt. Lemmon...
good luck...and build BOMBER ANCHORS... SUPER BOMBER and use directional placements frequently.
Leading on solo is arduous and dangerous. Not worth the time and effort in my opinion. ( big wall stuff is different...but I have no experience there so...)
(This post was edited by azrockclimber on Nov 28, 2007, 3:01 PM)
|
|
|
|
|
sungam
Nov 28, 2007, 3:15 PM
Post #5 of 10
(3643 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Jun 24, 2004
Posts: 26804
|
check out the soloist, silent partner, and aid soloist, all made by the same company.
Also check out the threads on here about death-mod grigri. pay particularly close attention to Majid-Sabets post about how you are going to die, and your video will en up on youtube within 5 days. also check out that one dude's old navy sweater, it rocks.
-MagnuS
|
|
|
|
|
Tree_wrangler
Nov 28, 2007, 3:53 PM
Post #6 of 10
(3618 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Feb 8, 2007
Posts: 403
|
AZrockclimber wrote:
In reply to: Leading on solo is arduous and dangerous.
Yep. And that's exactly why it IS worth the effort.
I'm addicted.
|
|
|
|
|
moose_droppings
Nov 28, 2007, 4:38 PM
Post #7 of 10
(3598 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Jun 7, 2005
Posts: 3371
|
http://bigwalls.net/...?title=Roped_Soloing
Its a great feeling of independence one of the most enjoyable things you can do for some. Dial in your system under very controlled circumstances. Have a high degree of self rescue in your bag. Know how to build multidirectional anchors and when and where you'll need multidirectional pro. There are different ways to accomplish it with different devices so read and practice, rinse, repeat.
|
|
|
|
|
colatownkid
Nov 28, 2007, 5:09 PM
Post #8 of 10
(3577 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Nov 27, 2007
Posts: 512
|
thanks much for link and sorry for the troll. it's just been nagging at me for a while.
|
|
|
|
|
evanwish
Nov 29, 2007, 4:04 AM
Post #9 of 10
(3522 views)
Shortcut
Registered: May 23, 2007
Posts: 1040
|
haa i did it once.. not really that fun.
did it on a short overhanging 20' route with 4 bolts.
It was different but i highly doubt i would ever do it on any other route [especially since there were bolts every 5 feet]
|
|
|
|
|
stymingersfink
Nov 30, 2007, 6:05 AM
Post #10 of 10
(3482 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Aug 12, 2003
Posts: 7250
|
azrockclimber wrote: And truly...leading on self belay is just a bad idea. and its not very fun. <snip> Leading on solo is arduous and dangerous. Not worth the time and effort in my opinion. ( big wall stuff is different...but I have no experience there so...)
Um, you realize you're in the BIG WALL and AID CLIMBING forum?
So?
So...STFU, n00b!
Solo-aid climbing is THE SHIT!, even when climbing big lines with partners.
No rope drag to speak of
It frees your partner to clean and haul without managing a belay
Short-fixing makes for near-perpetual movement
I'm sure there are more great things about solo-aiding, but I'll leave them for another to mention.
Oh, and search. You'll find the information if you look in the right places. Come back and ask questions on the points that need clarification, but don't expect someone to just hand it to you on a platter. You've got to work for it.
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
