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curt
Nov 30, 2007, 4:53 AM
Post #26 of 27
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Registered: Aug 27, 2002
Posts: 18275
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JohnCook wrote: Dream on about the free climbing!
Don't know much about the history of free climbing, eh?
Curt
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JohnCook
Nov 30, 2007, 3:29 PM
Post #27 of 27
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Registered: Dec 27, 2006
Posts: 221
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I know my climbing history, as do the many people who have written well researched books on it. I began climbing in 1967 (I know climbing for a long time doesn't make me an expert, just look at some of the offerings on this site!!) but I am interested in climbing and its history.
I'll leave you as an expert on all things climbing to do your own research but By the mid 60's the Europeans, particularly the British had E5 5.12b/c (They didn't have E grades then, every thing above 5.10 b/c/d was just called extreme, with the occasional exceptionaaly sever, where the protection was and still is very poor.) In the late 60's early 70's various top US climbers toured Europe doing the hardest climbs, and returned with the free ethic, including Robbins in the 60's with the idea os using nuts instead of pins, and using them for protection instead of aid. Henry Barber went to the UK and came back suitably impressed with the the standards.
Before making a bald statement do some research. Much of mine has been in American books by American climbers and writers, who are extremely loyal to American ideals.
The UK is I believe now on E11 8c/9a trad and as high as 9b/c (UK grade) sport. They are no better or worse than the rest of Europe, or USA, as climbing and climbers are now global. (I believe that the Spaniards currently have the beat sport climbers, the Americans, the best boulderers and the UK the best trad, but I may be wrong, the climbing magazines have a habit of reporting last years news, or current news from heavily sponsored climbers.
Another much needed rant finished. You have all weekend to think of a snide reply, because I am now off out for a weekends climbing, on real rock, in real weather and open air, with like minded friends. Hope you are too.
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