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how many back up rappell
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galt


Oct 14, 2002, 2:09 PM
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I've never backed up my rappells. I don't think I'm playing with my life, I'm just careful about what I do. Just my thought.


cyberclimber


Oct 14, 2002, 2:21 PM
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I'm surprized that you got so many backup people to respond to this, I didn't think this many people in the whole world backed up their rappells. I have never backed up a rappel and I have never seen anyone else doing so either. I am all for safety and redundancy, but I don't really see the need for an autobloc and it just seems like it's too complicated and I try to KISS since I'm not 2 bright.


glowering


Oct 14, 2002, 2:42 PM
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I keep a 24" runner of acc cord girthed to my leg loop at all times and a non locking D.

3 or 4 wraps for an autoblock in about 5 seconds are you're there. I always use it unless there's a firemans. Just look at all the fatalties rappelling - no room for error.

You can do the autoblock before putting on the rap device and it holds the rope up for you.

Oh yeah, I use another 24" runner in a basket on my belay loop with my rappel locking biner on the end of it. It extends the rap device out so things don't get caught in it, and increases the angle that the brake hand rope goes in to increase friction.



tanner


Oct 14, 2002, 3:23 PM
Post #29 of 41 (2540 views)
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Most of the time when I'm craging I don't back up the rappel. If my friends at the bottom I always get a fire mans belay. I do back up long raps. Or if I'm cleaning or need to use my hands. Or if I'm setting a TR or the eadge and its hard to get on rappel. But I should back it up more.


climbincajun


Oct 14, 2002, 3:23 PM
Post #30 of 41 (2540 views)
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I also back up my rappels with an autoblock.

As for being hard to control, use a 24" runner girth hitched thru your harness and rappel off that instead of your belay loop. This puts the belay device about eye level instead of down on your harness. I find it much more comfortable and easier to control this way, though it does take some getting used to.

When rappeling, I keep my brake hand on the autoblock and just slide the knot down. If you let go, it locks up. The extended rappel makes it easier to unload, too.


baker_ian


Oct 15, 2002, 8:22 AM
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I always back up my raps, but just by wrapping the rope around my right upper thigh (i'm right handed). quick, easy and safe(ish)


clam


Oct 15, 2002, 8:43 AM
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Registered: Mar 8, 2002
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Short rappels with feet on the rock, no; anything that requires hanging in the air, yes (perhaps more a psychological backup). Long rappels, yes, with gloves. I usually use the Kleimheist knot.


robbora


Oct 16, 2002, 10:29 AM
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vocabulary problems

Is the Autoblock refer to a "French Prussik"? Is it the one that utilizes the leg strap of the harness? Or is it an manufactured gadget?

Is the "Fireman" when the person at the bottom pulls on the rope?

Reguardless of your personal preference, we need to guard against something UNFORESEEN, or out of our control, happening, not just a blunder on my part.


maiorlive


Oct 16, 2002, 10:51 AM
Post #34 of 41 (2540 views)
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My raps are always backed up. I prefer the prussik backing up my brake hand because I find it's faster and more certain to grab, easier to unweight and I only need one hand to manage it.

If I don't have a prussik (like when I forgot it last weekend), I always ask for a fireman's.

Rappelling is usually the freakiest part of my climb because I feel completely at the mercy of the rope. I feel much better when I've backed up everything I can.

W


kolby


Oct 16, 2002, 11:14 AM
Post #35 of 41 (2540 views)
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Not only do I back up raps with a French prussik on my leg loop which takes about 2 seconds to install, I climb with two nine mm ropes which allows me to be on belay with one rope passing through pro as I rap with the other rope off some flimsy tree or pitons in the desert. Essentially, it's like lead climbing in reverse on rapell. Might sound complicated but it's fast and easy and by far the safest method.
-Kolby Jardine


hugepedro


Oct 16, 2002, 11:49 AM
Post #36 of 41 (2540 views)
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I usually back up my raps. Occasionally I don't though for expediency sake.

I use a bachman with 4-5 wraps above my belay device. I have issues with the currently accepted practice of using an autoblock below the rap device (nothing wrong with it, just not my personal preference).

If you use a backup friction knot below your rap device on your leg loop, remember to extend your rap device so that your knot doesn't ride up and foul it should you loose conciousness.

For those who don't back it up because consider yourself careful enough to be safe, remember, a backup can protect you from the things you can't control (objective hazards - like rock fall). Those things are rare, but they do happen, and people have died from them. Just something to think about.


rockwomyn


Oct 16, 2002, 11:53 AM
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I back up with the prussik knot to my leg loop. I don't always do it but for long rappell it helps keep my hand from catching on fire. for short raps i don't use anything...it seems to be much faster and smoother when i don't use anyting.


freudian


Oct 16, 2002, 12:16 PM
Post #38 of 41 (2540 views)
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I generally climb Single Pitch routes or very short Multi Pitch routes. As a result of this, I am usually just raping of with my Figure8 descender. No backup (prussik, shunt), no fireman's and no helmet. If I was to do a scarry or extremely long rappell, I would have my shunt or a prussik setup for backup. I would probably also have a helmet if I were to do BIG WALL climbing.

Ever see climbers wearing a helmet at a climbing gym? Hehehe...

FREUDIAN


clmbnski


Oct 16, 2002, 12:40 PM
Post #39 of 41 (2540 views)
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Registered: Feb 10, 2002
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Safety is good reason to use them but the main reason I use an autoblock is
convenience

If the ropes are tangled I can just let go and fix them. Sometimes on multipitch climbs it isnt straight down to the next rap station, so I use both hands to pull myself over to the anchor. And sometimes I like to just chill out and hang or inspect the route and not have to worry about keeping the break hand on.


stoutclimb1


Oct 16, 2002, 1:20 PM
Post #40 of 41 (2540 views)
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Registered: Oct 3, 2002
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I feel alot better if i do, but if I dont not that big of deal.


ropegirl


Oct 16, 2002, 5:32 PM
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Registered: Apr 29, 2002
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I always, always, always back up a rap. (Always wear my seatbelt too.) You never know what will happen. Better to be safe than sorry. The butt you save may be your own.

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