Dec 5, 2007, 9:54 PM
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Registered: Jul 22, 2003
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Getting my toys in order (crampon poll)
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I have 2 sets of identical crampons. Old BD Switchblades. I have all the toys with them as well.
This includes a Trident kit with a very long middle point (actually a modified Charlet point) that climbs ice very well as well as being long enough to function as a mono on the rock.
I have the standard mono that climbs ice at a C level due to how far back the secondary points are. They are great on rock.
I have the dual point that climbs almost perfect in very thin ice and are just fine for fat. It's not ideal on rock.
So three possible configs and only 2 sets of crampons (see how lazy I am, I just want to change crampons, not unbolt/rebolt anything).
Currently I'm thinking the Trident mod as the bread and butter pon as it does everything quite well.
Then I'm thinking the monopoint as something to beat the piss out of on drytool routes (I have 3 sets of mono's for this crampon).
I figure I'll let the duals gather dust and put them in if I climb something I know will be ultra thin.
How would you do it? You can vote on multiple choices, I want to see the winning 2 configs.
And think in terms of ice routes and ice cragging. I have some G12's for glaciers and mountains
seems to me that the trident would displace a lot of ice, but if it works for you, then go for it. then set up the other set with monos for the mixed stuff.
Funny you should mention the Switchblades with Trident points. I was out climbing GWI yesterday and happened to notice the imprint of a pair of them in the snow on one of the ledges of that route.
Thought to myself "huh. well, don't see that everyday"
Also of note, I was trying a pair of the new-er Cyborgs... seemed lighter than my old Bionics, better layout for the secondary points too. I'm thinking I just might have to get myself a pair. The only problem is, the old bionics replacement points won't work for the new Cyborgs.
I'm wondering too when they'll make a horizontal frontpoint for the thing. They come in handy sometimes.
Dec 6, 2007, 1:49 PM
Post #6 of 9
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Registered: Oct 25, 2002
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Re: [stymingersfink] Getting my toys in order (crampon poll)
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stymingersfink wrote:
Also of note, I was trying a pair of the new-er Cyborgs... seemed lighter than my old Bionics, better layout for the secondary points too. I'm thinking I just might have to get myself a pair. The only problem is, the old bionics replacement points won't work for the new Cyborgs.
I went from an old pair of Bionics (bought second hand) to the Cyborgs and it was like night and day. I was suddenly like "hey! that's what secondary points a for, nice!".
Dec 6, 2007, 4:10 PM
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Re: [stymingersfink] Getting my toys in order (crampon poll)
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They actually aren't the "trident" set up per se.
They are the outer points of the trident filed down a little shorter than normal. The center point is a charlet point that has been hacked up to fit in the center. It's a good bit longer than the BD trident center.
It all comes together as a really good mono, the trident acting as the secondary points that these pons never had.
I got a used pair of Switchblades last year for a couple bucks and immediately didn't like them. Then a friend of mine gave me the dual setup from his old ones. They were actually damn nice crampons after that. Last week he gave me a "bag of parts" from his old switchblades. The bag of parts added up to another full set of Switchblades with all the fixins. I've even got side spurs and heel spurs if I choose to use attach them.
I hear you on the secondary point issue. I'd take my G12's on vertical ice over the switchblades in mono any day, only because they have great secondary points.
Don't get me wrong. It is the carpenter rather than the tools. I climbed a lot of stuff on my old switchblades, but didn't feel much remorse when I retired them. due to my new love affair with my M10s.
If you are confident in your feet with them on, that is all that matters.
Check the bolts on them carefully. One year there was a recall on some of the bolts due to the heads shearing off. Since you are putting them together yourself, it should be easy to check.
If you are confident in your feet with them on, that is all that matters. PT
Perhaps for any given ascent that may be true... I've logged some pretty good ice in my bionics (which I started with in '02). But then again... I just didn't know any better.
IOW, trying to pound 16p nails with a finish hammer technically can be done, but I wouldn't recommend it.
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