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crimping_bum
Dec 7, 2007, 8:38 AM
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Registered: May 18, 2005
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I am in the market for a big down jacket to take on my trip to Bishop with me. I have looked at 3 jackets online and I was wondering if I could get some input. They are:
1. North Face - Nuptse Jacket
2. Mountain Hardware - Sub-Zero Jacket
3. Marmot - Ama Dablam Jacket
I need something that I can wear while belaying in cold conditions as well as something that I can wear when traveling from boulder to boulder. Any info is helpful. Thanks.
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chefamyk
Dec 7, 2007, 10:10 AM
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Registered: Apr 17, 2005
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I'd suggest the Plasma Thermal jacket. Its not down but its Primoloft with is a synetic down. It keeps you just as warm and its not as puffy. Its also water proof, the down jackets suck if they get wet..
(p.s I work at the North Face store so thats what I would get, and will get when I get enough money.)
:-)
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munky
Dec 7, 2007, 12:11 PM
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Registered: Apr 26, 2006
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I've had a NF Nuptse for 5 years now and its still does the job. I've taken it on many trips and although, its a little banged up (avoid bushwacking with it) its nothing a little duck tape won't fix. I could be wrong but compared to the Mt Hardwear and Marmot its the best price also. I think NF has a new model with a hood that is permanently attached also. I think I would buy that one if I was in the market for a new down jacket. You can't be warm enough when belaying your friend in a dark cave on a blistery January day.
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supersonick
Dec 7, 2007, 2:54 PM
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Registered: Mar 18, 2002
Posts: 157
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North Face all the way because it like totally goes with Abercrombie. Make sure to get the "Preppy Cable Visor" too:
I stay so warm on campus.
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macherry
Dec 7, 2007, 3:24 PM
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Registered: Sep 10, 2003
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the sub-zero is nice, packs up well into a stuff sack too.
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zakadamsgt
Dec 7, 2007, 3:58 PM
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Registered: Jan 22, 2006
Posts: 110
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Moonstone - Cirrus
This jacket is badass. It's lightweight and I can wear it in a wide range of temperatures.
For Bouldering, it's perfect with a T-shirt down into the mid 40s. Its also warm down around 20 (havent been lower in it). Great jacket - read some reviews.
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zealotnoob
Dec 7, 2007, 4:58 PM
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Registered: Nov 2, 2006
Posts: 525
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DAS Parka!
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dudemanbu
Dec 7, 2007, 5:07 PM
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Registered: Jun 3, 2005
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I hate to admit it, but i was recently bought a NF redpoint optimus jacket for my birthday and i like it quite a bit. It stuffs down into its own inside vest pocket, is very warm, windproof, and has a waterproof hood/shoulders. It's very water resistant everywhere else, and has primaloft insulation that will still keep you warm even when it does get wet. Nice little touches here and there like softshell cuffs and collar to keep the wind out. I would've liked some pit zips and maybe lined pockets... but that's really nitpicking at this point.
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zxcv
Dec 7, 2007, 5:49 PM
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Registered: Feb 1, 2006
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For what you are doing, using down sounds fine. I don't know about comparitive clo values, but my non-hooded down jacket keeps me warmer than my DAS.
If you are hard on gear, consider a synthetic parka as you don't want to rip a down jacket.
Anyway, using Spadout gets you the Nuptse for 170 and the Sub-zero for under 140. These are similar jackets. Both are fine for what you want, but be sure to check each down chamber for proper fill. I have seen both companies underfill these jackets.
The Ama whatever is not well made IMO- underfilled and baggy.
For good prices and more options go here:
http://www.backcountrygear.com/apparel/insulated_Jackets.cfm
They have a Marmot down sweater for 100 bucks, and if you want a synthetic, and ID for 180.
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sidepull
Dec 7, 2007, 5:59 PM
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Registered: Sep 11, 2001
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I bought a moonstone 5 years ago for $60 bucks on clearance. With down jackets, I really don't think you need to spend a lot on brand jackets or features. Get something cheap at EMS or a closeout at REI.
PS - Because I'm a gear whore, I love the look of the DAS but not so much the new ones. I liked the contrasting colors.
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erclimb
Dec 7, 2007, 6:47 PM
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Registered: Aug 23, 2002
Posts: 204
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dude, the jackets you list are awesome, but they're also mountaineering jackets (i.e. expensive); if all you want is a jacket to keep you warm on belay or in camp, check out www.rei-outlet.com; they have several down jackets near or below $100
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olympicmtnboy
Dec 7, 2007, 7:10 PM
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Registered: Feb 4, 2003
Posts: 270
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I got my puffy J-Crew down jacket at Goodwill for $7, kept me just as warm as my friends with $200 jackets for the last 3 years. I just replaced it with a $10 Eddie Bauer jacket from a different Goodwill cause it had slightly higher quality down and a nice built in stuff sack. Buck the poser trend and go with function! Oh wait, I'm posting on rc.com . . .
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caughtinside
Dec 7, 2007, 7:11 PM
Post #13 of 16
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Registered: Jan 8, 2003
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sidepull wrote: I bought a moonstone 5 years ago for $60 bucks on clearance. With down jackets, I really don't think you need to spend a lot on brand jackets or features. Get something cheap at EMS or a closeout at REI.
This is correct.
For a down jacket, they are more or less the same, the only difference is the quality of the down, 600, 650, 700 fill, etc.
The guy said he'd be using it for bouldering, so he doesn't need any synthetic waterproof thing. A down jacket is a great choice for a cold day between problems.
I've got the nuptse and it's great. BUt those other jackets are good too. shop around and find a deal.
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andrewbanandrew
Dec 7, 2007, 8:02 PM
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Registered: Nov 10, 2004
Posts: 441
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if it's just for cragging and bouldering buy the cheapest damn thing you can and save the rest of your money for resoles or something
http://www.sierratradingpost.com/p/,49080_Work-King-Down-Jacket-Reversible-For-Men.html
This is $25. It's a piece of shit, but it will keep you warm, and with the money you save, you're halfway to another bouldering pad/rope/set of draws.
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james481
Dec 7, 2007, 9:14 PM
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Registered: Aug 10, 2007
Posts: 201
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MontBell Alpine Down FTW!
Total weight: 1 lb (16 oz)
Fill Weight: 6 oz (more than some summer sleeping bags)
Fill Power: 800
Shell: 30 Denier Nylon w/ DWR (similar in feel and performance to pertex quantum)
Price: $170 straight from the manufacturer
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leeroyjenkins
Dec 7, 2007, 9:21 PM
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Registered: Jun 6, 2005
Posts: 21
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james481 wrote: MontBell Alpine Down FTW! Total weight: 1 lb (16 oz) Fill Weight: 6 oz (more than some summer sleeping bags) Fill Power: 800 Shell: 30 Denier Nylon w/ DWR (similar in feel and performance to pertex quantum) Price: $170 straight from the manufacturer
On sale now for Sale Price: $144.50
http://www.prolitegear.com/...ine_down_jacket.html
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