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123mardog
Dec 8, 2007, 2:07 AM
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http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=dl1h0Jmqswc
Amazing....
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curt
Dec 8, 2007, 2:19 AM
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Yeah, I almost fell asleep...
Curt
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ja1484
Dec 8, 2007, 2:43 AM
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123mardog wrote: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=dl1h0Jmqswc Amazing....
No disrespect intended - I can't pull Vdoubledigits and probably never will - but did it seem to anyone else like that problem involves the same move about 143 times in a row? Give or take...
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camplicated
Dec 8, 2007, 3:00 AM
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impressive accomplishment or not, this has got to be the least interesting climbing video i've seen in a while. i mean, halfway through the clip i started doing work.
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quiteatingmysteak
Dec 8, 2007, 3:00 AM
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if i add a v1 sit start to it, does it become v17?
v16+v1 = v17!
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quiteatingmysteak
Dec 8, 2007, 3:03 AM
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also, he took his beanie off mid-send. that bumps the grade up quite a bit. Maybe he was going for the FBA (first Beani-less Ascent) but decided to pinkpoint the FBA by removing his headgear?
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petsfed
Dec 8, 2007, 3:12 AM
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123mardog wrote: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=dl1h0Jmqswc Amazing....
Jesus, there's at least a minute of resting that can go away without making the video any less interesting. Yes, probably a very impressive send. This is one of the worst videos I've ever seen though. Camera is very static, with no different angles, music is terrible, and the way its cut makes the climb look easy. Its a disservice to the problem.
Curt's right, I about feel asleep.
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zeke_sf
Dec 8, 2007, 3:52 AM
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Your sig is wrong petsfed. Maybe with some kind of alternate tuning, or you are doing a weird variation of the shocker. You guys have sold me though. Ain't watching some boring ass bouldering vid. Most are boring anyway, and if this one's stretching the boundaries...
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hopperhopper
Dec 8, 2007, 5:38 AM
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i liked it 
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shurafa
Dec 8, 2007, 5:54 AM
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Pretty sick stuff...
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curt
Dec 8, 2007, 5:52 PM
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caughtinside wrote: ...What I thought was most interesting was how this problem climbed way more like a route. Dude was milking rests and kneebars all over the place.
Gee, maybe that's because it is more of a route...
Curt
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microbarn
Dec 8, 2007, 6:17 PM
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I agree....I liked that I knew it was one take. Some videos get so cut up that I wonder if the problem was ever sent in one go.
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microbarn
Dec 8, 2007, 6:17 PM
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awesome send though...good for him
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mturner
Dec 8, 2007, 6:30 PM
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Boring or not, I'm impressed at how easy he made that heinously long problem look. That was one of the most methodical and well-wired sends of a hard problem I've seen. I wonder how long it took him to wire all those moves.
ps-I was kinda hoping he'd fall at the end just so I could get a chuckle out of all those moves he did before just to fall at the end.
(This post was edited by mturner on Dec 8, 2007, 6:40 PM)
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EPiCJAMES
Dec 8, 2007, 6:35 PM
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way too many rests, but i'm sure he'd been working the problem all day. good send tho.
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k.l.k
Dec 8, 2007, 6:43 PM
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Curt-- You're just getting old and jaded . . ..
I actually enjoyed the thing-- he's really careful and technical with his feet, even on the sections where he could obviously just slobber on the heel. And that last super technical and powerful move before the easier lip is truly impressive--mentally even more than physically.
But The Wheel of Life does show the idiocy of using bouldering grades for long traverses. You can see why the French gave up on the practice years ago.
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deepplaymedia
Dec 9, 2007, 4:35 AM
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ive finally come to realise that RC.com forums are serving their purpose in keeping all you haters bitching on the internet & away from the crags where we are having unimpeded fun!
the video is supposed to be a documentation of history, not a razzle dazzle hollyhood production! it was taken by a mate who was there at the time and had a video camera, and recorded chris (a far far better climber and in all likelihood a cooler guy than any of you will ever be)
as for the climbing, who of you has ever been to hollow mountain cave?
ive had the amazing priveledge to climb in that cave a few times, and i can assure you that apart from being really really cool & really really big (wheel of life is about 70 moves long) it is very pumpy climbing & resting is crucial if you hope to send anything there (even the shorter problems) but why would you hate on someone for resting anyway? i mean what is the point really? sooooo dumb!!
as for the grade, it was graded by the first ascensionist Dai Koyamada (sp?) who has done enough other v15's & 16's to know what he is talking about. the rock is waiting for any of you to go and downgrade it if you like, but until then...
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Johnny_Fang
Dec 9, 2007, 6:02 AM
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dude climbs like a robot. i've rarely seen something so wired. super amazingly cool.
the haters are jealous.
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curt
Dec 9, 2007, 6:56 AM
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deepplaymedia wrote: ive finally come to realise that RC.com forums are serving their purpose in keeping all you haters bitching on the internet & away from the crags where we are having unimpeded fun! the video is supposed to be a documentation of history, not a razzle dazzle hollyhood production! it was taken by a mate who was there at the time and had a video camera, and recorded chris (a far far better climber and in all likelihood a cooler guy than any of you will ever be) as for the climbing, who of you has ever been to hollow mountain cave? ive had the amazing priveledge to climb in that cave a few times, and i can assure you that apart from being really really cool & really really big (wheel of life is about 70 moves long) it is very pumpy climbing & resting is crucial if you hope to send anything there (even the shorter problems) but why would you hate on someone for resting anyway? i mean what is the point really? sooooo dumb!! as for the grade, it was graded by the first ascensionist Dai Koyamada (sp?) who has done enough other v15's & 16's to know what he is talking about. the rock is waiting for any of you to go and downgrade it if you like, but until then...
Do you need a box of tissues--or just tampons?
Curt
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hopperhopper
Dec 9, 2007, 7:24 AM
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curt wrote: Do you need a box of tissues--or just tampons?
lol he's not crying. i was actually about to quote it for truth, maybe put it as my sig rofl
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marvinz
Dec 9, 2007, 10:44 AM
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deepplaymedia wrote: ive finally come to realise that RC.com forums are serving their purpose in keeping all you haters bitching on the internet & away from the crags where we are having unimpeded fun!
Yep.
In reply to: chris (a far far better climber and in all likelihood a cooler guy than any of you will ever be)
Goes without saying.
In reply to: the rock is waiting for any of you to go and downgrade it if you like, but until then...
Don't hold your breath.
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camhead
Dec 9, 2007, 2:55 PM
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nice, I didn't know that WoL had seen a 2nd ascent. That dudes got some massive endurance reserves.
oh, and zeke (thread drift alert),
that certainly looks a bit like the shocker to me...
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k.l.k
Dec 9, 2007, 4:25 PM
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Deep Play-- I take it that most of your post is a reply to the folks who didn't enjoy the video, rather than to me. As for the grade, although the thread contained plenty of snarky comments on the video, I haven't seen anyone suggest that the route is "overgraded."
My comments on the idiocy of using V-grades for long traverses and link-ups is a reference to a longstanding debate about the differences between bouldering and sport grading. Since the first ascentionist was the one who chose to use V grades for the thing, I suppose the critique, such as it is, is directed at him rather than your buddy. As I said in my post, it has been the practice in Fontainebleau, for a long time now, (and was the practice of the inventor of the V-grade system) to use different grading systems for traverses to reflect the difficulties of comparing a, say, 22-move power-endurance route to a four move power problem.
Changing the grade on Wheel of Life from V16 to 5.15c or the appropriate 'Bleau grade would hardly qualify as downgrading.
And I agree that it's pretty cool to see an important-- and more to the point, well-crafted--ascent on YouTube.
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microbarn
Dec 9, 2007, 5:31 PM
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camhead wrote: nice, I didn't know that WoL had seen a 2nd ascent. That dudes got some massive endurance reserves. oh, and zeke (thread drift alert), that certainly looks a bit like the shocker to me...
You are going 2 in the stink 1 in the pink with your guitar chord.
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