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kriso9tails
Dec 11, 2007, 1:07 AM
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I'm surprised there's not thread on this already (or that it's not turning up with the search feature), but is there really much point to the new ATC Sport?
I'm a little torn, but it does look like it'd be a bit of a smoother belay, and since rapping off after you clean anchors seems to be a dead practice, I guess I can see it's place in single pitch sport... though why it needs to be lighter to this end is beyond me.
Colour me undecided.
(This post was edited by kriso9tails on Dec 11, 2007, 1:09 AM)
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ja1484
Dec 11, 2007, 1:18 AM
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I predict it dying in short order.
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chilli
Dec 11, 2007, 1:33 AM
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yeah, i'd have to agree with ja. i don't see it living too long. i'm sure a few newb sport climbers will hop right on it. but really, you might as well keep your options open and stick with a more versatile belay device. the selling point of it being "light" is sort of pointless, in my opinion. it's not like those belay devices were that big a cost in weight anyway (especially if someone is only taking some draws & slings up). i could just see some situation when somebody gets up somewhere and goes "damn, i wish i had the other half of my atc." overspecialization DOES breed in weakness, after all.
i don't think it'd be any smoother anyway, just shinier
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ccarver99
Dec 11, 2007, 1:48 AM
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Yeah I doubt many experienced climbers will buy this thing. The only place this device would be appropriate would be for single pitch sport routes where someone lowers you to the ground. However, when cleaning routes, many places I have been require you to repel down...so this device is useless there. And when actualy climbing these single pitch sport routes, you wouldn't carry this thing with you.
As for multipitch...any half-brained person won't start up a climb with a belay device that won't allow them to repel down if necessary...
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shoo
Dec 11, 2007, 2:06 AM
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This seems like a gym climbing device 100%. I can't see this being useful for basically anything but the gym, especially if they cost more than a regular ATC.
As for rappelling by necessity, you could always munter hitch if you don't mind trashing your rope. . .
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fancyclaps
Dec 11, 2007, 2:49 AM
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I read about this thing today and I was amazed at how stupid it is.
So it is a lightweight belay device for single pitch sport climbing? Really? The style of climbing where people routinely use grigris which weigh almost three times as much as an ATC. I mean are there really any sport crags that have an approach SO long that you would need to shave a couple of grams off your weight by taking a less functional tool? I doubt it. Shit if the approach is that heinous you will probably sweat off more weight trying to get there.
The arena where weight really matters, multipitch, no one would ever consider a belay device they couldn't rap with.
Yeah there is some concern with shaving a few ounces off for that hard red point, but if you are so worried about ounces that you have ultralight weight harness or draws, you probably wouldn't be taking a belay device up with you.
Seriously wtf? Sometimes the whole ultralight-weight revolution is just plain stupid.
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jt512
Dec 11, 2007, 3:02 AM
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kriso9tails wrote: I'm surprised there's not thread on this already (or that it's not turning up with the search feature), but is there really much point to the new ATC Sport? I'm a little torn, but it does look like it'd be a bit of a smoother belay, and since rapping off after you clean anchors seems to be a dead practice, I guess I can see it's place in single pitch sport... though why it needs to be lighter to this end is beyond me. Colour me undecided.
Seems like a pointless device. The weight doesn't matter when you're on the ground, only when you climb. And the only time I climb with a belay device is when I'm planning to rappel, which that device isn't designed for.
Jay
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Valarc
Dec 11, 2007, 3:35 AM
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I don't get the idea of marketing this thing for single-pitch sport routes. The only use I could see for this thing would be to sell in bulk for gyms as rental belay devices. If they are cheap enough, I could see a market for them there, but otherwise it looks pretty pointless.
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caughtinside
Dec 11, 2007, 3:37 AM
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Valarc wrote: I don't get the idea of marketing this thing for single-pitch sport routes. The only use I could see for this thing would be to sell in bulk for gyms as rental belay devices. If they are cheap enough, I could see a market for them there, but otherwise it looks pretty pointless.
They were on the shelf at REI the other day. They cost the same as the XP, $22.50 I think.
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andrewbanandrew
Dec 11, 2007, 3:39 AM
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It would only make sense if it were dramatically cheaper than other options, but it looks like it's not. I could see some gyms snapping it up if it were as their rental devices, but at the same price as the regular ATC?
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sky7high
Dec 11, 2007, 3:41 AM
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Yep, I'd agree that it's a stupid device.
If I was really so desperate to get lighter, I would buy a belay plate and be done with it.
All I can say about this is:
WTF?
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joshy8200
Dec 11, 2007, 3:41 AM
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It could be used in ultra-light alpine applications if you and your partner just always simul-rapped.
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krosbakken
Dec 11, 2007, 3:45 AM
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hahaha looks like a joke, but the sad thing about it is that it's not a joke.
ha WTF?
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cdrisc
Dec 11, 2007, 3:58 AM
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Well, I'm just glad it can take my 7.7 mm single rope. and it could be used to rap down. You'd just have to leave your line fixed... forever (or at least until someone with a complete atc came along)
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andrewbanandrew
Dec 12, 2007, 7:29 PM
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maybe BD will stop making their other belay devices and everyone who wants a BD belay device will have to buy two of these
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summerprophet
Dec 12, 2007, 8:03 PM
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andrewbanandrew wrote: maybe BD will stop making their other belay devices and everyone who wants a BD belay device will have to buy two of these
Dont laugh to hard..... The original six sided ATC by chouinard suggested exactly that. Except even back then nobody bought them, as stitch plates and eights had way more versatility.
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Jbitz
Dec 12, 2007, 10:58 PM
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The sport ATC should wear out twice as fast as a normal ATC and I can't rappel or belay with double ropes.
Add this to my Christmas list...not.
I think we should come up with a different name for it other then "Sport".
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billykent24
Dec 12, 2007, 11:05 PM
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I just looked at this device and was wondering if possiblly you could turn it sideways and rap two lines?
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NoMoCouch
Dec 13, 2007, 12:15 AM
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billykent24 wrote: I just looked at this device and was wondering if possiblly you could turn it sideways and rap two lines?
Arrows please.....
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billykent24
Dec 13, 2007, 1:17 AM
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I think I saw it like this in my head.
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jt512
Dec 13, 2007, 1:22 AM
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billykent24 wrote: I just looked at this device and was wondering if possiblly you could turn it sideways and rap two lines?
Let me rephrase that for you: "Hi. I'm a n00b, and I was wondering if I could use this device in a manner not approved by the manufacturer."
Jay
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angry
Dec 13, 2007, 1:25 AM
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jt512 wrote: billykent24 wrote: I just looked at this device and was wondering if possiblly you could turn it sideways and rap two lines? Let me rephrase that for you: "Hi. I'm a n00b, and I was wondering if I could use this device in a manner not approved by the manufacturer." Jay
It's not that as much as how skinny of a rope you'd need to pull it off. The twisting would be horrible too.
Pretty much anyone smart enough to imagine using it in this way is smart enough to figure out a much better way down or smart enough to have a two holed belay device.
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billykent24
Dec 13, 2007, 1:25 AM
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noobs cant draw arrows like that! hahaha
disclaimer*** never use a lifesaving device in any manner other than what's recommended by the manufacturer.
I believe this device is crap.
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slablizard
Dec 13, 2007, 1:32 AM
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jt512 wrote: Seems like a pointless device. The weight doesn't matter when you're on the ground, only when you climb. And the only time I climb with a belay device is when I'm planning to rappel, which that device isn't designed for. Jay
what jt says.
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