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What is trad climbing?
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winkwinklambonini


Oct 17, 2002, 5:34 PM
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What is trad climbing?
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It is in technical terms:da bomb!


nbrown


Oct 17, 2002, 6:12 PM
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traditional climbing which means climbing on gear that you place instead of bolts. Or if you are the first ascentionist gear including bolts are placed on lead.


spoon


Oct 17, 2002, 6:29 PM
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Trad or traditional climbing is climbing that doesn't need or leave permanant bolts in the rock. Instead, climbers place protection like stoppers, (also called nuts and chalks) hexes, and cams (SLCDs) in the rock as they go. Once the climber finishes the route, they then "clean" it, removing all the protection they placed. You can get a better description of the different kinds of protection (stoppers, hexes, and cams) in the climbing terms section. Look at the headings on the left of your screen (the first one is "Users" Scroll down to the Articles heading and select climbing terms. Happy Climbing


stevematthys


Oct 17, 2002, 8:32 PM
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yea, it is basically a leave no trace version of sport climbing.


Partner rrrADAM


Oct 19, 2002, 4:07 PM
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I like the "Chess Game" that is Trad...

Reading the rock for oportunities to place pro, and the confidence required to trust that piece enough to climb far above it. This in addition to being able to climb the route.


Trad leaves nothing on the rock other than some chalk.


petsfed


Oct 19, 2002, 4:38 PM
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To add to what's already been said, bolts are only in situ if 1) the first ascensionist decided that the route needed a bolt at some spot (only 1 bolt), or at the anchors, during the first ascent, 2) the first ascensionist looked back and said "Without a bolt there, somebody's gonna get killed!", or 3) some jackass didnt' feel comfortable running it 6 feet from a stopper they could've hung their truck off of, so he/she/it busted out their brand new shiny hammer drill and placed a useless, unnecessary bolt 8 inches from what is normally an interesting hex placement. There is fixed gear in trad climbing, but its rare, out of absolute neccesity (unlike the convenience of some bolts on sport routes), and generally considered with a wary eye. We trad climbers tend to shake our heads in disgust when we see bolts within 18 inches of usable cracks (see p 12 of Rock & Ice #118 for a good example of this), just like sport climbers tend to shake their heads in disgust at fixed stoppers.


Partner rrrADAM


Oct 19, 2002, 5:31 PM
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Good point, and correct.

Bolts have been placed in a "Trditional Style" (only when needed) and are part of some Trad Routes. There are some at Tuolumne and Suicide in California, just to name a copuple places.


Again, very good point.


lightboi


Oct 20, 2002, 4:06 PM
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Trad Climbers tend to top out thier climbs. Then they either rappel, down climb or walk off the route. Sport climbs end at a 2 bolt anchor some where short of the top of the rock band. The Sport Climbs that I really do not understand is the ones that go 60' and end at a 2 bolt station, when there is a perfect ledge 30' further, and another 100' of climbable rock above that.


topher


Oct 20, 2002, 4:55 PM
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i know im going get flamed, but
my exprience with trade, climbs suck!!! i find it kinda sketchy. i duno it cool cause you dont put bolts in and you can go i wana climb that crack and probly do it. But i dont like it.


petsfed


Oct 20, 2002, 5:16 PM
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Trad climbers are not people who buy cell phones so they can always call their (insert person here) anytime they want. They don't avoid the bus because they don't like to walk to the bus stop. Some don't own microwaves. They are not fans of convenience for convenience's sake. Trad climbers are the backpackers of the climbing world. That is to say, there are day hikers and trail runners (sport climbers and boulderers), who don't have to fuss with as much gear as they are not going so far, and they don't tend to take trails that commit a person after a certain point. Then there are thru hikers (alpinists and light & fast enthusiasts), people who carry a minimum of gear because know how to get by without it. These are the same people who likely carry 2 ended spoons and rework one end into a spork with a cutting edge. Regular backpackers (tradclimbers) tend to fit into the middle. They carry a lot of gear, but they know each piece intimatly. They like longer routes where sometimes retreat isn't an option. And they are scrupulous about weight. But they don't eschew trails simply because there are trails. They just like the "road less traveled by."


talons05


Oct 20, 2002, 5:38 PM
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Well put, but some trad climbers (like myself) enjoy all aspects of the sport, including bolted routes, alpine ascents, bouldering, whatever. Trad is just another means to an end.

A.W.


orbizy


Oct 20, 2002, 7:02 PM
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The things Petsfed said and the understanding of trad climbers is what is now called "Old School."

Also, very many "Old Schoolers" look at "Sport" climbing as a farce, something other than climbing.


madturtle


Oct 20, 2002, 10:16 PM
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I'm not above clipping bolts here and there so I don't want to come across with an elitist attitiude, but I think the analogy is right on. Sport climbing and bouldering are lots of fun and can make for a great day at the crags, but it is not nearly the same adventure you get from climbing trad or alpine. It's all about the mindset.


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