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evanwish
Dec 20, 2007, 4:39 AM
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I just want to see some of everyone's worst and best trad anchors..
sometimes it's helpful to see what works and what doesn't work for other people, sooooo
post up some pics!
(i had a good pic of a really weird anchor, deleted it yesterday, oops)
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evanwish
Dec 20, 2007, 4:54 AM
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haa thanks. i didn't exactly include "manky" in my search.. 
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caughtinside
Dec 20, 2007, 5:06 AM
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I would consider this bomber.
(This post was edited by caughtinside on Dec 20, 2007, 5:08 AM)
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moditup
Dec 20, 2007, 5:13 AM
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Not so much...
see all the aliens? they are about to pull from the forces of the cooler. That big bro is in a flaring crack, and let's not even start with that #6... against the rock like that? Hell naw...
I do see a nalgene, although it's not properly set as a chockstone like it was designed to. Someone should be careful with that thing. drinking from it can cause cancer (and you thought rock climbing was safe, HAH!)
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caughtinside
Dec 20, 2007, 5:17 AM
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moditup wrote: Not so much... see all the aliens? they are about to pull from the forces of the cooler. That big bro is in a flaring crack, and let's not even start with that #6... against the rock like that? Hell naw... I do see a nalgene, although it's not properly set as a chockstone like it was designed to. Someone should be careful with that thing. drinking from it can cause cancer (and you thought rock climbing was safe, HAH!)
at least they correctly rigged the tp.
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evanwish
Dec 20, 2007, 5:18 AM
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caughtinside wrote: I would consider this bomber. [image]http://www.rockclimbing.com/images/photos/assets/6/95286-largest_57144.jpg[/image]
haaaaaaaaa that's great! haa
and you still had plenty of gear left over!
ps: how long did that take to set up?
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caughtinside
Dec 20, 2007, 5:22 AM
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evanwish wrote: caughtinside wrote: I would consider this bomber. haaaaaaaaa that's great! haa and you still had plenty of gear left over! ps: how long did that take to set up?
Not sure. I think there are probably two racks in there. it was built by my friend chris, climbinginchico, and friends.
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jt512
Dec 20, 2007, 1:39 PM
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evanwish wrote: I just want to see some of everyone's worst and best trad anchors.. sometimes it's helpful to see what works and what doesn't work for other people, sooooo post up some pics! (i had a good pic of a really weird anchor, deleted it yesterday, oops)
Evan, although you can augment your knowledge of anchors by asking questions on the internet, you can't learn the subject from scratch in this manner. You need to have a base of knowledge, gained in some organized fashion, first. It is clear that you don't, and you are not only wasting people's time with these questions (which, incidentally, are redundant), you are setting yourself up for an accident. There is a standard text on this subject that essentially everybody in this sport reads -- Climbing Anchors (2ed 2006) by John Long and Bob Gaines. That book will answer 99% of your questions. After you've mastered the material in the book, come back and ask about the other 1% online.
Jay
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csproul
Dec 20, 2007, 1:49 PM
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jt512 wrote: Evan, although you can augment your knowledge of anchors by asking questions on the internet, you can't learn the subject from scratch in this manner. You need to have a base of knowledge, gained in some organized fashion, first. It is clear that you don't, and you are not only wasting people's time with these questions (which, incidentally, are redundant), you are setting yourself up for an accident. There is a standard text on this subject that essentially everybody in this sport reads -- Climbing Anchors (2ed 2006) by John Long and Bob Gaines. That book will answer 99% of your questions. After you've mastered the material in the book, come back and ask about the other 1% online. Jay
http://www.rockclimbing.com/...ost=1743874;#1743874
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epoch
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Dec 20, 2007, 1:59 PM
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Bomber.
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jt512
Dec 20, 2007, 2:12 PM
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csproul wrote: jt512 wrote: Evan, although you can augment your knowledge of anchors by asking questions on the internet, you can't learn the subject from scratch in this manner. You need to have a base of knowledge, gained in some organized fashion, first. It is clear that you don't, and you are not only wasting people's time with these questions (which, incidentally, are redundant), you are setting yourself up for an accident. There is a standard text on this subject that essentially everybody in this sport reads -- Climbing Anchors (2ed 2006) by John Long and Bob Gaines. That book will answer 99% of your questions. After you've mastered the material in the book, come back and ask about the other 1% online. Jay too late... http://www.rockclimbing.com/...ost=1743874;#1743874
60-foot "trad fall"? I'd like to hear the story behind that.
Jay
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truello
Dec 20, 2007, 2:19 PM
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I guess it qualifies as "climbing porn" then?
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jdefazio
Dec 20, 2007, 2:25 PM
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jt512 wrote: 60-foot "trad fall"? I'd like to hear the story behind that. Jay
Please don't encourage him. 
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dharmatreez
Dec 20, 2007, 2:26 PM
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hey Jay! JAAYYYYY!
ah, there you are
you did it again...
you're wandering around drunk, dropping your bananas and looking for someone to stick-clip
the sport crag is back over that way
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the_leech
Dec 20, 2007, 2:53 PM
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I was quick to judge evanwish as nothing more than a moron.
But I may be wrong.
It's quite possible that he is The Supreme Troller, building a base of work post by post before he presents his masterpiece sometime in the next few weeks.
What do you say evanwish, is it true?
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markc
Dec 20, 2007, 3:10 PM
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dharmatreez wrote: hey Jay! JAAYYYYY! ah, there you are you did it again... you're wandering around drunk, dropping your bananas and looking for someone to stick-clip the sport crag is back over that way
I know it's in vogue to give Jay shit when he comes down hard on people, but that isn't the case here. What he said was forthright and spot on. A couple of anchor photos without the knowledge to critically analyze what you see isn't going to be nearly as beneficial as the revised edition of one of the most frequently recommended climbing books I'm aware of.
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markc
Dec 20, 2007, 3:38 PM
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I'm familiar with that thread and the evolution of your sketch, which I find pretty amusing. That said, you wandering around after Jay looking for a chance to use it is pretty lame. That's especially the case in one of his more reserved moments of late. Cheers.
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dharmatreez
Dec 20, 2007, 3:43 PM
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i wasn't wandering around, i only check out the trad, regional, and access forums
jay was in a trad forum and being a dedicated sport climber i thought it would be funny, maybe i had to much caffeine and it was only funny to me, oh well
(This post was edited by dharmatreez on Dec 20, 2007, 3:52 PM)
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evanwish
Dec 20, 2007, 4:05 PM
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csproul wrote: jt512 wrote: Evan, although you can augment your knowledge of anchors by asking questions on the internet, you can't learn the subject from scratch in this manner. You need to have a base of knowledge, gained in some organized fashion, first. It is clear that you don't, and you are not only wasting people's time with these questions (which, incidentally, are redundant), you are setting yourself up for an accident. There is a standard text on this subject that essentially everybody in this sport reads -- Climbing Anchors (2ed 2006) by John Long and Bob Gaines. That book will answer 99% of your questions. After you've mastered the material in the book, come back and ask about the other 1% online. Jay too late... http://www.rockclimbing.com/...ost=1743874;#1743874
yep that's right, but it had nothing to do with the anchor.
and yessss i've read all those books cover2cover at least 4 times... and i've had guides check my anchors.. and yes they agree i tie good anchors
BUT
everybody has different prefferences... and books don't teach you that especially with those "special" situations. Only climbing and talking to climbers can do that, and since i can't be climbing right now, i think i'll go ahead and post up
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markc
Dec 20, 2007, 4:11 PM
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There was a time when there were multiple anchor analysis threads. Doing a search for 'anchor analysis' will bring up quite a few responses, but not all threads or anchors are serious. On top of that, many of the images are no longer available. You'll have to sort through a lot of chaff to find any wheat. If you have nothing but time, knock yourself out.
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evanwish
Dec 20, 2007, 4:16 PM
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Jay
i messed up and didn't place any gear because i thought it was "too easy"
Obviously that was a mistake.
Lesson learned
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