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bluering
Dec 20, 2007, 4:54 PM
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My worst rap anchor...
1 micro nut on left side, two on the right created very quickly to avoid an incoming thunder storm on Marmot Dome.
It worked fine but I wasn't too proud of it.
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palidon11
Dec 20, 2007, 5:06 PM
Post #27 of 45
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^pff i'd rap off of it.
i'd be unhappy leaving 3 micro nuts and 4 biners though. (im poor)
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jt512
Dec 20, 2007, 5:20 PM
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bluering wrote: My worst rap anchor... 1 micro nut on left side, two on the right created very quickly to avoid an incoming thunder storm on Marmot Dome. It worked fine but I wasn't too proud of it.
Comments on the sliding X, anyone?
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mangiari
Dec 20, 2007, 5:29 PM
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Does not look that bad to me. How are your normal anchors look like? 10 placements connected with millions of slings? 
I recommend taking cheap cord into the backpack for use in emergency situations, then you don't have to leave the good things, that you might need at the next rappel...
10 meters of 5mm cord don't weight much and you can really get quite far with that.
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bluering
Dec 20, 2007, 5:38 PM
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Mangiari...good point. I do carry cord now. Leaving a cordalette would probably be cheaper than two sewn slings.
JT, a sliding-X probably wouldn't have been a good idea in this paticular case. Only one of the right-hand nuts was 'bomber'. It the left hand micro blows, the whole rig extends 2 feet and shock-loads the right-hand placements. Also, it was a staright-down rap, no wandering.
In retro spect, I probably could've gotten away with only one biner at the rope, but hey, ovals are five bucks...why risk it.
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jt512
Dec 20, 2007, 5:42 PM
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bluering wrote: Mangiari...good point. I do carry cord now. Leaving a cordalette would probably be cheaper than two sewn slings. JT, a sliding-X probably wouldn't have been a good idea in this paticular case. Only one of the right-hand nuts was 'bomber'. It the left hand micro blows, the whole rig extends 2 feet and shock-loads the right-hand placements. Also, it was a staright-down rap, no wandering.
I agree about the sliding-X. I thought that was what you were using, but looking more closely, I now see that you have a separate sling for each arm.
Jay
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salamanizer
Dec 20, 2007, 6:09 PM
Post #32 of 45
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bluering wrote: [image]http://www.rockclimbing.com/images/photos/assets/6/113266-largest_52281.jpg[/image] My worst rap anchor... 1 micro nut on left side, two on the right created very quickly to avoid an incoming thunder storm on Marmot Dome. It worked fine but I wasn't too proud of it.
Jesus!
4 biners, 2 slings and 3 micro nuts in one anchor...bummer! Hope It wasn't a long multi pitch route.
Well, you're still alive and that's all that matters I guess.
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truello
Dec 20, 2007, 7:24 PM
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bluering wrote: [image]http://www.rockclimbing.com/images/photos/assets/6/113266-largest_52281.jpg[/image] My worst rap anchor... 1 micro nut on left side, two on the right created very quickly to avoid an incoming thunder storm on Marmot Dome. It worked fine but I wasn't too proud of it.
Not enough time to place another piece but enough time to get out the camera and snap a pic 
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cchas
Dec 20, 2007, 9:16 PM
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caughtinside wrote: I would consider this bomber. [image]http://www.rockclimbing.com/images/photos/assets/6/95286-largest_57144.jpg[/image]
Hey, you can't be dropping your cooler of beer!! You could break one of the bottles!
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majid_sabet
Dec 20, 2007, 9:42 PM
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Evan
Those in red are draws which act as the anchors and generally, you are not suppose to leave the biners facing the rock as I mentioned it to you on your previous post.
But this is not your photo leading...or is it ?
[URL=http://www.imagehosting.com] 
(This post was edited by majid_sabet on Dec 20, 2007, 9:43 PM)
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dominic7
Dec 20, 2007, 10:16 PM
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caughtinside wrote: evanwish wrote: caughtinside wrote: I would consider this bomber.  haaaaaaaaa that's great! haa and you still had plenty of gear left over! ps: how long did that take to set up? Not sure. I think there are probably two racks in there. it was built by my friend chris, climbinginchico, and friends.
Is he the one standing on the ground?
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dominic7
Dec 20, 2007, 10:25 PM
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jt512 wrote: bluering wrote: Mangiari...good point. I do carry cord now. Leaving a cordalette would probably be cheaper than two sewn slings. JT, a sliding-X probably wouldn't have been a good idea in this paticular case. Only one of the right-hand nuts was 'bomber'. It the left hand micro blows, the whole rig extends 2 feet and shock-loads the right-hand placements. Also, it was a staright-down rap, no wandering. I agree about the sliding-X. I thought that was what you were using, but looking more closely, I now see that you have a separate sling for each arm. Jay
That actually was a thread with lots of anchor pictures in it:
http://www.rockclimbing.com/..._reply;so=ASC;mh=25;
Please don't bump it though.
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sittingduck
Dec 21, 2007, 11:19 AM
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My rap anchor from a solo trip this summer.
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mangiari
Dec 21, 2007, 6:39 PM
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If the rock is solid (which you can not decide from a picture), this looks ok. If not, it's rather scary.
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ja1484
Dec 21, 2007, 6:57 PM
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markc wrote: dharmatreez wrote: hey Jay! JAAYYYYY! ah, there you are you did it again... you're wandering around drunk, dropping your bananas and looking for someone to stick-clip the sport crag is back over that way I know it's in vogue to give Jay shit when he comes down hard on people, but that isn't the case here. What he said was forthright and spot on. A couple of anchor photos without the knowledge to critically analyze what you see isn't going to be nearly as beneficial as the revised edition of one of the most frequently recommended climbing books I'm aware of.
Who the hell needs a reason to give others shit? Life is more entertaining in when it's a general policy, not a reaction.
(This post was edited by ja1484 on Dec 21, 2007, 7:02 PM)
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the_leech
Dec 21, 2007, 8:12 PM
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ja1484 wrote: Who the hell needs a reason to give others shit? Life is more entertaining in when it's a general policy, not a reaction.
Thank you. I couldn't agree more.
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sky7high
Dec 31, 2007, 8:53 PM
Post #43 of 45
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sittingduck wrote: [image]http://www.home.no/sittingduck/belay_knot.jpg[/image] My rap anchor from a solo trip this summer.
Bomber!
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bighigaz
Dec 31, 2007, 9:36 PM
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sittingduck wrote: [image]http://www.home.no/sittingduck/belay_knot.jpg[/image] My rap anchor from a solo trip this summer.
I like it. Solid, AND you don't have to leave any gear behind. I'm sure the gritstone-brits would like it too. Well done man, really.
James
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silum
Jan 5, 2008, 6:56 AM
Post #45 of 45
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us gritstone brits generally walk around at the top of the crag
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