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solo1220
Dec 22, 2007, 10:26 PM
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what's the best way to train pinch strength? I have fairly good crimp and open hand but when it comes to pinch thick bread loaf type of holds i'm horrible. I dont have as much of a hard time when the pinch is thiner but when it's one of those thick pinch loaf types, I suck. any suggestions for getting better with the pinch strength?
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crimping_bum
Dec 22, 2007, 10:30 PM
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practice climbing stuff with big pinch holds. The only way to learn how is to do it. You will develop the strength with time and practice.
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stuckinmidwest
Dec 22, 2007, 11:41 PM
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http://projectholds.com/...tcat=1&prodid=15
Check those out, they've got pinches on the sides of em. I tried these out the other day and wasn't crazy about the rest of the holds, but the pinches were an interesting idea to incorporate into some rock rings.
One more thing, the hit strip pinches will work pretty well too, but it's a bigger investment than the rock rings from project holds.
(This post was edited by stuckinmidwest on Dec 22, 2007, 11:43 PM)
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petsfed
Dec 22, 2007, 11:49 PM
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If you can, get a single smooth-sided, disc-type weight (not the kind with a lip on it, or any other kind of handle) and do curls with it until its easy, then start tieing more weight on there. Basically do simple curls but with a weight that forces you to use a pinch grip as opposed those that have an easy to grab handle. Pinches are one of the few climbing specific moves that you can weight train for, and the added bonus is that your jamming strength will get stronger too.
Also, force yourself to use more pinches at the gym. Seek out the problems that make you pinch. You'll get stronger that way too.
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spikeddem
Dec 23, 2007, 5:12 AM
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solo1220 wrote: what's the best way to train pinch strength? I have fairly good crimp and open hand but when it comes to pinch thick bread loaf type of holds i'm horrible. I dont have as much of a hard time when the pinch is thiner but when it's one of those thick pinch loaf types, I suck. any suggestions for getting better with the pinch strength?
Obviously something pointed out this weakness. Now, this may just be a crazy thought, but did you ever think to practice routes with similar features? Maybe even perhaps the one(s) that pointed out the weakness in the first place?
Great scott! I should write a book.
Honestly, what is it in people's minds that makes them think "to get better at pinching a rock, I'm going to go out a buy a piece of shit to squeeze!"
This is a generally a great rule of thumb: the more specific the goal, the more specific the practice should be.
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verticon
Dec 23, 2007, 3:36 PM
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place a towel over a fixed bar and hang on it pinching both ends with your fingers. It works great !
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ja1484
Dec 23, 2007, 4:22 PM
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spikeddem wrote: solo1220 wrote: what's the best way to train pinch strength? I have fairly good crimp and open hand but when it comes to pinch thick bread loaf type of holds i'm horrible. I dont have as much of a hard time when the pinch is thiner but when it's one of those thick pinch loaf types, I suck. any suggestions for getting better with the pinch strength? Obviously something pointed out this weakness. Now, this may just be a crazy thought, but did you ever think to practice routes with similar features? Maybe even perhaps the one(s) that pointed out the weakness in the first place? Great scott! I should write a book. Honestly, what is it in people's minds that makes them think "to get better at pinching a rock, I'm going to go out a buy a piece of shit to squeeze!" This is a generally a great rule of thumb: the more specific the goal, the more specific the practice should be.
SAID principle. It blows my mind how many people think cross training is better than actual climbing itself.
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jt512
Dec 23, 2007, 6:03 PM
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petsfed wrote: If you can, get a single smooth-sided, disc-type weight (not the kind with a lip on it, or any other kind of handle) and do curls with it until its easy, then start tieing more weight on there. Basically do simple curls but with a weight that forces you to use a pinch grip as opposed those that have an easy to grab handle.
Curls? For grip strength training? Please reread everything ever written on this site about training specificity. In the meantime: quoted for prosperity!
Jay
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ja1484
Dec 23, 2007, 7:08 PM
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Posterity?
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jt512
Dec 23, 2007, 7:16 PM
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No, on rc.com it's officially "prosperity." Are you new around here?
Jay
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ja1484
Dec 23, 2007, 7:19 PM
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jt512 wrote: No, on rc.com it's officially "prosperity." Are you new around here? Jay
Just checking.
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shockabuku
Dec 23, 2007, 8:49 PM
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ja1484 wrote: jt512 wrote: No, on rc.com it's officially "prosperity." Are you new around here? Jay Just checking.
Laurel and Hardy.
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verticon
Dec 26, 2007, 4:55 PM
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jt512 wrote: No, on rc.com it's officially "prosperity." Are you new around here? Jay
You'll have to admit that it was a typo! The officialy RC.com term for this is prosternity, you n00bs !
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reg
Dec 26, 2007, 5:27 PM
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ya wanna see pinch strenght watch "king lines" featuiring chris sharma - wow
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roddyheat
Dec 27, 2007, 1:03 PM
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I'm still a climbing noob but here is my two cents. As everyone has said practice on actual holds.
HOWEVER
if you don't have access to an indoor gym or whatever there are some pinch grip exercises people in the grip strength world do. I don't know how much of this carries over to rock climbing grip but it can't hurt :)
1. Easiest one is to grab two weight plates smooth side out press them together and hold them in a pinch grip. (this is harder than you think)
2. grab an axe stick in deep to a fairly big slab of wood. Take the axe handle out and pinch grip the axe head and walk around with it.
There are lots more you can find on the net. If your interested in cross training your grip and forearms check out the Grip Master's Manual by John Brookfield.
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jdefazio
Dec 27, 2007, 2:16 PM
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roddyheat wrote: ... grab an axe stick in deep to a fairly big slab of wood. Take the axe handle out and pinch grip the axe head and walk around with it.
Gold Jerry, Gold.
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