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Novel uses for a retired ATC?
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kwmoore


Oct 18, 2002, 7:59 AM
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I dropped my ATC off my local crag last week. It made a satifying "plink" noise when it hit the ground. I've retired it, but can't bring myself to toss it in the trash.

Anyone have any cool uses for retired ATCs? The only one I've come up with so far is a paperweight.

Ken.


Partner camhead


Oct 18, 2002, 8:05 AM
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hang it on your rear view mirror, or
make it into a christmas tree ornament.



cloudbreak


Oct 18, 2002, 8:09 AM
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How about a huge keychain......


phlyfisher


Oct 18, 2002, 8:54 AM
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Wear it as an earring.


nosclimber


Oct 18, 2002, 9:15 AM
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Or a nipple ring. That should be a major chick magnet.


jamison


Oct 18, 2002, 9:16 AM
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Maybe it can be candle holder in your gear room.


climbincajun


Oct 18, 2002, 9:18 AM
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keep it on your harness. when you go climb, drop it repeatedly as a gag.


rwaltermyer


Oct 18, 2002, 9:25 AM
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my question is what's the danger of a retired ATC, now I wouldn't rapell on it (i never rapell of them period)

But correct me if i'm wrong, the structural makeup of them isn't as essential as the mere fact that they're providing friction, right? what's gonna happen to it, crumble to pieces??


climbincajun


Oct 18, 2002, 9:28 AM
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I think the first danger would be that it was dropped and maybe the metal has some jagged dents and the like from impact. These rough edges could abrade the sheath as your rope runs over them.

That seems the most likely thing. I guess your right about structural integrity, etc...but why take a chance? ATC's are cheap.


cloudbreak


Oct 18, 2002, 9:29 AM
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Why wouldn't you rapel on an ATC?


kwmoore


Oct 18, 2002, 9:34 AM
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I dunno what the danger is... People talk about "micro-cracks" and "hidden fractures" etc. I'm not a material scientist so I don't know if it's hooey or not. (although I kinda think it is)

You're right, my ATC still works fine and probably would for many years. BUT I'm not going to risk my life or someone else's if there's a chance my ATC has "micro-fractures" for $20.

Plus, I always wanted a nipple ring...


krillen


Oct 18, 2002, 9:40 AM
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So you don't reppel on them, but you'd belay on one?

So what if it crumbles to pices while you are catching someone? Then he's essentially OFF belay isn't he?

Use it as a desk ornament, for pens or something.


winkwinklambonini


Oct 18, 2002, 10:16 AM
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ATC'S ARE DANGEROUS!!!!!!!!!!!
I CAME FROM THE GYM SO I ONLY USE GRI-GRI'S, TWO OF THEM FOR DOUBLE ROPE RAPPELS!!!!!!!!!!!

How about a cup for your nut's, or take the middle out for a cock ring.

[ This Message was edited by: winkwinklambonini on 2002-10-18 10:18 ]


vegastradguy


Oct 18, 2002, 10:26 AM
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wow, you spent $160 so you can rappell with two grigri's?

yeah, ATC's are totally safe when used properly. You can rappell on them just as safely as you can on an 8 or other belay device. Personally, I rap on a reverso, because its smoother than an ATC, but that's just me.



jetace


Oct 18, 2002, 11:38 AM
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I'm confused, how would an atc be dangerous? Unless you didn't know how to use one, they work just as well as an 8. I rap and belay with one all the time, I've never felt in danger. I can see where a dropped one could be dangerous, but a new one? How is that dangerous?


cragchica


Oct 18, 2002, 11:50 AM
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winkwinklambonini -

You're kidding, right?!?! You use
two gri grisevery time you rap?!?! What do you think will happen if you use an ATC?
What about a Reverso? Have you thought of using that if rapping bothers you? ...helluva-lot less expensive and helluva-lot lighter too

...and, as far as the dropped ATC... toothbrushholder?


mother_sheep


Oct 18, 2002, 11:58 AM
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I rappel and belay with my ATC just about everytime I climb. Take your retired ATC and any other metalic gear that you are retiring, along with some cord and make a wind chime!


petsfed


Oct 18, 2002, 12:25 PM
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Or you could use a prusik backup if you're afraid of letting go or losing control. I prefer tube-type devices for all of my rap/belay needs, and since they don't lock as postively when my hands are wet, they're good for less than "positive" ice anchor climbs.

On the topic, maybe get like fifty (ask around) and make nunchucks?


wlderdude


Oct 18, 2002, 12:47 PM
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Don't take wink seriously on the double grigri thing. The should have tipped you off if the sarcasm didn't.

It was a great comment poking fun at all the innane gym rats who LOVE their gri gri's and the anti gri gri Nazi's who say the only safe device is the ATC.

Anyways, I think the microscopic internal cracks thing is bunk, but I would still get a new ATC. Piece of mind is worth all the ATC's in the REI.

In case you are curious, the effect of a surface crack on the strength of a material is twice that of an internal vacancy of the same size. So, a scrape on the outside of depth x is as bad as an invisible internal crack of 2x. This is just true of materials in general. Geometries and stress concentrations can make it much worse, so I would just get a new one.

Keep your old one in your pack on multi pitch climbs. That way, if you drop your new ATC all the way to the ground or loose it, you have a spare.

Or donate it the scouts.
(remember what the winking thing means)


stoutclimb1


Oct 18, 2002, 12:47 PM
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every on could send them to me that be cool to sell on e-bay for cheap




Just kidding or am I


aarong


Oct 18, 2002, 12:58 PM
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Give it to a sport-rappeller.


tanner


Oct 18, 2002, 1:03 PM
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i USE TWO GRI GRI'S EACH WITH AN INDEPENDANT PRUSSIC BACK UP AND A FIREMANS BELLAY. ANCHERED TO AN AMERICAN TRIANGLE USING 10 SLINGS FOR SAFTEY SAKE.

HELP i CAN'T MOVE AND THE BOLTS ARE MAKING A FUNNY NOISE!!

[ This Message was edited by: tanner on 2002-10-18 13:05 ]


tinyball


Oct 18, 2002, 1:10 PM
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You do that too? Wow. And I thought I was the only one...


winkwinklambonini


Oct 19, 2002, 10:50 AM
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Tanner,
while aussie rappelling. The irony is killing me

I...can't.....reach.....the handle!

Seriously though, I once saw a guy at some crag in poenix who was just like Chris Farley aussie rapping.

when he got to an overhanging part and his feet didn't touch anymore, he panicked

NO!!!!!!!!!!!!OH MY GOD!!!!!!!!!!!!!
as he locked himself off and flailed his legs around, just like chris farley would.

I had to go behind a tree cause my sides were splitting!

[ This Message was edited by: winkwinklambonini on 2002-10-19 10:56 ]


ponyryan


Oct 19, 2002, 11:53 AM
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I'm not sure about anybody else's ATC, but I can't figure out how to use mine as a nipple ring... Maybe I'm just slow I say use it as a backup on multipitchers. Or you could get a hydraulic press and do some tests on it

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