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adam3
Dec 29, 2007, 5:09 PM
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Dying to do some multi pitch sport routes. Wondering if there are any in red rock canyon ranging from 5.8-5.11a's ish? Planning a trip down in the spring doing mainly sport maybe some top rope. Have a couple walls that are supposed to be good sport but curious if theres any multi pitch bolted?
-Thanks
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mistajman
Dec 29, 2007, 5:11 PM
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Prince of Darkness would be a good one
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climbingaggie03
Dec 29, 2007, 5:23 PM
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there's some good routes on the black velvet wall? (in black velvet canyon) you might also check out chrimson chrysalis I haven't climbed it but I know it has a fair number of bolts and is 5.8 (8 pitches?) There's not tons of bolted multi pitch out there, but you will finds a few routes I think, especially on the harder end of your spectrum.
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adam3
Dec 29, 2007, 5:57 PM
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I have done anchor systems and belaying the second. But I havent done a full on outdoor multi (more than 2) pitch climb. Im not looking to get lost on the side of a mountain.. I just wanna do a nice multi pitch to get really high up. not kill myself. So if that helps with any recommendations.. : )
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csproul
Dec 29, 2007, 6:05 PM
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climbingaggie03 wrote: there's some good routes on the black velvet wall? (in black velvet canyon) you might also check out chrimson chrysalis I haven't climbed it but I know it has a fair number of bolts and is 5.8 (8 pitches?) There's not tons of bolted multi pitch out there, but you will finds a few routes I think, especially on the harder end of your spectrum.
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flamer
Dec 29, 2007, 6:22 PM
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There are no true Multi pitch sport routes in Red Rocks. NONE.
Prince of Drakness is close but without a couple of small cams or nuts you'd run it out at least 20ft.in at least 1 spot.
Crimson is ABSOLUTLY NOT a sport route.
Yellow brick road has only 1 pitch that is Basically sport'o and it's the 4th pitch.
Unimpeachable Groping comes very close to being a sport route. You could defiantly go up a few pitchs before you need to place any gear. And you can rap most of the route(not after the last couple of pitchs).
josh
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vegastradguy
Dec 29, 2007, 6:50 PM
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PoD- you'd have to solo the first pitch (5.6 trad), and do at least one run out as per flamer.
Crimson- if you're a 5.11 trad leader, you might only clip bolts for some excitement, but you'd be 40'-50' out at times.
I've heard from some folks that Unimpeachable is all bolted, but others say you need gear. Sounds like its a question of how you feel about run-outs on 5.8 terrain.
That's really about it- with the bolting ban in place, nobody can really go out and put up a big bolted route anymore....
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altelis
Dec 29, 2007, 6:51 PM
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how does this keep coming up? why are people so convinced that RR has multi-pitch sport routes?
do a search!!!!!!!!
THEY DON"T EXIST!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
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aerili
Dec 30, 2007, 4:19 AM
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How do you supposedly lead 5.9 trad (per your profile) and have never climbed more than 2 pitches in a row??
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erick
Dec 31, 2007, 12:10 AM
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if you're looking to get into the ways of multipitch climbing, it's time to put away hopes of finding bolts on the way up.
Multipitch = trad, in almost all cases.
I do have the supertaco book: "Red Rocks Climbing" which has lots of multipitch route topos and descriptions in it. i have yet to come across any multipitch that are strictly sport routes, though i easily could have missed them. i'm heading down there in late january and also hope to do a bit of easier multipitch routes.
seriously, it's definitely worth getting into the world of trad climbing. it'll take you places that sport routes rarely go.
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brutusofwyde
Jan 1, 2008, 6:41 PM
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Potrero Chico.
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potreroed
Jan 6, 2008, 1:50 AM
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Forget Red Rocks. Come to El Potrero Chico where you can climb bolted multi-pitch (up to 23 pitches) with super-easy approaches (30 seconds to 1/2 hour).
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healyje
Jan 6, 2008, 2:22 AM
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potreroed wrote: Forget Red Rocks. Come to El Potrero Chico where you can climb bolted multi-pitch (up to 23 pitches) with super-easy approaches (30 seconds to 1/2 hour).
Sounds like you and Rusty have recovered fine...
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superbum
Jan 6, 2008, 4:02 AM
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Unimpeachable Groping !!!
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potreroed
Jan 7, 2008, 4:36 AM
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Finally started climbing again about a month ago. It feels really good even though I'm way out of shape. I did get up a 10d today with just one fall!
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livinonasandbar
Jan 7, 2008, 4:48 AM
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mistajman wrote: Prince of Darkness would be a good one
Take a set of nuts with you, AND A BELAY SEAT! Otherwise, the hanging belays will have you pissing blood...
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carabiner96
Jan 10, 2008, 3:31 AM
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aerili wrote: How do you supposedly lead 5.9 trad (per your profile) and have never climbed more than 2 pitches in a row??
Mroew! Not all of us live near great multi pitch areas, dahling.
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andrewbanandrew
Jan 10, 2008, 8:08 PM
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if you want multipitch sport go to City of Rocks/Castle Rocks or Smith
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shaggy67
Jan 22, 2008, 2:32 AM
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I did it without any gear or a belay seat and my urine was still yellow when I finished it, but we were climbing fast cuz it was friggin cold.
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freerangequark
Sep 2, 2009, 11:41 PM
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Handren's guidebook has two climbs listed as multi-pitch sport.
Unimpeachable Groping
http://www.rockclimbing.com/...e_Groping_40969.html
Man's Best Friend
http://www.rockclimbing.com/...st_Friend_92690.html
I have not climbed either of these routes.
It seems most everyone places some gear on Unimpeachable Groping.
Hopefully I'll be on Unimpeachable Groping in November. I did climb the 5.8 top pitch of it though as an alternate to the 5.6 top pitch of Ginger Cracks. When I do get on Unimpeachable Groping, I will have a small rack with with me.
-Glenn
(This post was edited by freerangequark on Sep 3, 2009, 2:35 AM)
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Neel
Sep 3, 2009, 12:49 AM
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Man's Best Friend is two pitches of ~5.7. It's alright, but it's pretty short. The view from the top is kinda nice because you can see the main loop. It's fun if you haven't climbed multi-pitches before, but i'm sure there's better climbs out there.
Here's a little picture i snapped there over new years.
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cracklover
Sep 3, 2009, 1:22 AM
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Or go to Europe, and enjoy 10 pitch sport routes on bomber limestone with fantastic views out over beaches and the Mediterranean the whole time.
Edited to add pics:
GO
(This post was edited by cracklover on Sep 3, 2009, 1:30 AM)
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USnavy
Sep 3, 2009, 3:53 PM
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Unimpeachable Groping and Man’s Best Friend are the only pure multi-pitch sport routes there that I know of (I climbed both). Prince of Darkness is very close and it has pitches that are pure sport. However you would still be well off to bring a few cams (first pitch is pure trad but only 5.7).
Unimpeachable Groping was really fun I recommend it. You dont need ANY gear on Unimpeachable Groping. There are times where I was clipping the next bolt before my foot had passed the pervious. The furthest distance between bolts anywhere on that route is about 20 feet on pitch one between I think it was bolts five and six. However the climbing in-between the bolts there is maybe 5.8 at worst and I dont remember there being much gear placements in that area anyway. Leave your rack at home for that route. Dont try it with a 70m, bring half ropes. Lots of drag on pitch two if you use all draws and a single rope.
(This post was edited by USnavy on Sep 3, 2009, 3:56 PM)
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vegastradguy
Sep 3, 2009, 4:14 PM
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USnavy wrote: . The furthest distance between bolts anywhere on that route is about 20 feet on pitch one between I think it was bolts five and six. However the climbing in-between the bolts there is maybe 5.8 at worst and I dont remember there being much gear placements in that area anyway. Leave your rack at home for that route. Dont try it with a 70m, bring half ropes. Lots of drag on pitch two if you use all draws and a single rope.
its more like 20' from the bolt to the first gear placement, 30'-35' between bolts. no, its not difficult, but its not totally cruiser if you're not used to run-outs, either.
there are a few other places gear is possible to augment the bolts as well- mostly on the first two pitches. i'd say if you bring anything, bring a couple of finger-sized cams and leave them at the big ledge if you're rapping the route.
that said- i wouldnt quite consider the first pitch of UG a sport pitch- pretty darn close, but not quite.
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brotherbbock
Sep 3, 2009, 4:21 PM
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Levitation 29? We sent this early summer.....basically it is pretty much a sport route, 1 easy pitch of trad.
Prince of Darkness is definitely a sport route. If you are confident and not scared of a clean long fall you can skip the entire trad section, or just place one piece of gear.
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