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adrenaline_climber


Jan 2, 2008, 2:30 PM
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good U.S location for trad climbing
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I was wondering what would be a good location to trad climb in the U.S besides Yosemite. Multi pitch and a lot of different routes are what i was looking for but something that is not yosemite although it is bomber. Just seeing what else is a popular area.


shoo


Jan 2, 2008, 2:38 PM
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Re: [adrenaline_climber] good U.S location for trad climbing [In reply to]
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The Gunks.


lithiummetalman


Jan 2, 2008, 2:51 PM
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Re: [adrenaline_climber] good U.S location for trad climbing [In reply to]
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A few places come to mind

-Lake Tahoe area - California
-Joshua Tree area - California
-Eldo Canyon area - Colorado
-Mammoth area - California
-Castle Crags area - California
-Shawnagunks - New York
-Taquitz and Suicide Rocks - California
-*Sedona area - Arizona
-*Seneca area - West Virginia
-Indian Creek - Utah
-Black Hills area - South Dakota
-Red Rocks area - Nevada Area
- 100's of other great places

There are 100's of great places to climb, I'd say pick a bunch of states (with vast amounts of granite, rhyolite, or any somewhat solid rock type) and just research the crap out of them, you'll find something.

*blargh I always get Sedona and Seneca confused...thanx for the correction!


(This post was edited by lithiummetalman on Jan 8, 2008, 3:11 PM)


smallclimber


Jan 2, 2008, 2:52 PM
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Re: [shoo] good U.S location for trad climbing [In reply to]
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shoo wrote:
The Gunks.

Yep, he said it, wonderful, wonderful place
(OK I have not been to Yosemite, but for East Coast US there is nothing better and you can climb almost year round).


a.frosch


Jan 2, 2008, 3:13 PM
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Re: [smallclimber] good U.S location for trad climbing [In reply to]
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New Hampshire trad is not to be missed.

EDIT: Be aware that you have to pay to climb at the Gunks. I think 15 dollars for a day pass, 80+ for a season. And watch out for millipedes.

That having been said, Gunks are great. But, I like NH trad better.


(This post was edited by a.frosch on Jan 2, 2008, 3:15 PM)


joshy8200


Jan 2, 2008, 4:26 PM
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Re: [a.frosch] good U.S location for trad climbing [In reply to]
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Dude...screw New Hampshire and the North East. North Carolina is where it's at for trad climbing east of the Mississippi.

Looking Glass
Laurel Knob
Whitesides
Stone Mountain
Linville Gorge (Shortoff, NC-Wall, Hawksbill, Table Rock)
Ship Rock

The variety of trad climbs in NC surpasses the North East by far. And you can actually climb rock year around in the NC mountains.


Partner camhead


Jan 2, 2008, 4:31 PM
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there's some really good rock in ohio!!!!!!!!!


blindfrogguy


Jan 2, 2008, 4:51 PM
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Re: [camhead] good U.S location for trad climbing [In reply to]
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Hundreds of routes on some nice atoka sandstone in Arkansas. (Sams Throne, Cave Creek, Valley of the Blind, Deliverance, Rickett Mountain and Mt. Mag) Almost all trad.


dingus


Jan 2, 2008, 4:51 PM
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T Wall and various other Chattanooga-area crags.

DMT


caughtinside


Jan 2, 2008, 5:00 PM
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camhead wrote:
there's some really good rock in ohio!!!!!!!!!

I hear it is a real roof crack Mecca!


a.frosch


Jan 2, 2008, 5:56 PM
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Re: [joshy8200] good U.S location for trad climbing [In reply to]
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joshy8200 wrote:
Dude...screw New Hampshire and the North East.

Yeah, you're right. What kind of an idiot would climb here?




csproul


Jan 2, 2008, 6:11 PM
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Re: [joshy8200] good U.S location for trad climbing [In reply to]
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joshy8200 wrote:
Dude...screw New Hampshire and the North East. North Carolina is where it's at for trad climbing east of the Mississippi.

Looking Glass
Laurel Knob
Whitesides
Stone Mountain
Linville Gorge (Shortoff, NC-Wall, Hawksbill, Table Rock)
Ship Rock

The variety of trad climbs in NC surpasses the North East by far. And you can actually climb rock year around in the NC mountains.
Don't get me wrong...I live in NC and think it is one of the best places around to live and climb. BUT. I wouldn't exactly consider NC climbing to be a destination. There is a lot of good climbing here but if I had to travel and find a big concentration of excellent climbing, I probably wouldn't pick NC...unless there were other reasons like cheap airfare or friends to climb with. The question is whether you are considering a place to live and climb or place to travel to and climb. If it is the former, then NC is a great choice. If it is the latter, then I think you can usually find someplace better.


gobennyjo


Jan 2, 2008, 6:15 PM
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Re: [adrenaline_climber] good U.S location for trad climbing [In reply to]
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I would start in NC since you live in Georgia, listen to above advice about North Carolina


fresh


Jan 2, 2008, 6:27 PM
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anyone's thoughts on boulder, CO?


stymingersfink


Jan 2, 2008, 6:27 PM
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Re: [camhead] good U.S location for trad climbing [In reply to]
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camhead wrote:
there's some really good rock in ohio!!!!!!!!!
but not like they got in Iowa.


joshy8200


Jan 3, 2008, 10:51 AM
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Re: [csproul] good U.S location for trad climbing [In reply to]
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csproul wrote:
Don't get me wrong...I live in NC and think it is one of the best places around to live and climb. BUT. I wouldn't exactly consider NC climbing to be a destination. There is a lot of good climbing here but if I had to travel and find a big concentration of excellent climbing, I probably wouldn't pick NC...

Yes...fair enough Chris. For some reason I thought the original poster was refering to trad climbing areas east of the Mississippi. Of course there are better destination areas to live out west...

I will however totally stick to the fact that NC is the best climbing state east of the Mississippi...especially for trad.

Actually...what am I saying...all you gumby chumps go to the Yankee states and leave the real climbing to us.


microbarn


Jan 3, 2008, 11:13 AM
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new river gorge and seneca rocks, WV are on par or surpass some of the others listed on this page.


adrenaline_climber


Jan 3, 2008, 2:30 PM
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Re: [lithiummetalman] good U.S location for trad climbing [In reply to]
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thanks for all the replies i was thinking more of a place to settle down. im probably gonna finish college at CU denver but was wondering what a good area would be for some different types of trad climbing relative to a single location. Thanks again for the replies mayb that will help you respond.


jcrew


Jan 3, 2008, 3:37 PM
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Re: [camhead] good U.S location for trad climbing [In reply to]
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camhead wrote:
there's some really good rock in ohio!!!!!!!!!

it's choss. flordia and mississippi are the secret hotbeds..






...no, in all seriousness, i'd second dingus, t-wall...


flamer


Jan 3, 2008, 4:11 PM
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adrenaline_climber wrote:
thanks for all the replies i was thinking more of a place to settle down. im probably gonna finish college at CU denver but was wondering what a good area would be for some different types of trad climbing relative to a single location. Thanks again for the replies mayb that will help you respond.

Denver is a very good place for Variety in climbing.

Not just Traditional vs. sport etc.

With in 1 hour's drive of Denver you can climb: Granite, Sandstone(several types), Gneiss, and Basalt.
TONS of Multi pitch variety.

josh


reno


Jan 3, 2008, 5:07 PM
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Well, there's a fair bit of decent traditional climbing in Georgia. Lost Wall (same place as Rock Town, just not as far up the hill,) and Tallulah Gorge are two that come to mind -- though Tallulah Gorge is not the place for the NEW trad climber, as it's fairly stiff and there are few routes below 5.8 or so.

T-Wall, as Dingus mentions, is another fantastic place.


munky


Jan 3, 2008, 5:56 PM
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I second NC as the best state to live in east of the Mississippi for multipitch trad. Move to Asheville and you have Yosemite like splitters 30 minutes away at Rumbling Bald. Within an hour you can get on hands down the best quality rock up to 9 pitches off the deck at Looking Glass, Whitesides, and Laurel knob. An hour north you can head to Linville Gorge which might possibly be the best adventure climbing location on the east coast (Cannon and the various areas in the Daks are arguable) The New River Gorge is 3.5 hrs away and rivals any single pitch climbing area in the states. Obviously there's lifetimes worth of bouldering with that much rock. Oh, I forgot to mention summer cragging in the highcounrty at Ship Rock, Raven Rocks, and various other Boone area crags. Then in the east you have Gunks-esque tiered roof climbing at Moore's Wall, generally 3 pitches or so. You can slab it out and shit yourself silly on the runouts at Stone Mountain. So, yea, NC is the REAL DEAL.


superbum


Jan 3, 2008, 6:13 PM
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RED ROCKS!


Arrogant_Bastard


Jan 4, 2008, 9:36 AM
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Re: [lithiummetalman] good U.S location for trad climbing [In reply to]
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lithiummetalman wrote:
A few places come to mind

-Lake Tahoe area - California
-Joshua Tree area - California
-Eldo Canyon area - Colorado
-Mammoth area - California
-Castle Crags area - California
-Shawnagunks - New York
-Taquitz and Suicide Rocks - California
-Seneca area - Arizona
-Indian Creek - Utah
-Black Hills area - South Dakota
-Red Rocks area - Nevada Area
- 100's of other great places

There are 100's of great places to climb, I'd say pick a bunch of states (with vast amounts of granite, rhyolite, or any somewhat solid rock type) and just research the crap out of them, you'll find something.

Did you just call Yosemite the "Mammoth Area"?


Arrogant_Bastard


Jan 4, 2008, 9:37 AM
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Re: [Arrogant_Bastard] good U.S location for trad climbing [In reply to]
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Arrogant_Bastard wrote:
lithiummetalman wrote:
A few places come to mind

-Lake Tahoe area - California
-Joshua Tree area - California
-Eldo Canyon area - Colorado
-Mammoth area - California
-Castle Crags area - California
-Shawnagunks - New York
-Taquitz and Suicide Rocks - California
-Seneca area - Arizona
-Indian Creek - Utah
-Black Hills area - South Dakota
-Red Rocks area - Nevada Area
- 100's of other great places

There are 100's of great places to climb, I'd say pick a bunch of states (with vast amounts of granite, rhyolite, or any somewhat solid rock type) and just research the crap out of them, you'll find something.

Did you just call Yosemite the "Mammoth Area"?

Nevermind. Sorry, just re-read OP... 'other than Yos..."

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