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jrox
Jan 3, 2008, 11:14 PM
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Though not spoken of much due it's odd location, Boatrock (in GA) host 'Crack To Nowhere' which goes at V8 or so.
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knieveltech
Jan 4, 2008, 5:46 AM
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Is blue moon the left-leaning hand crack semi-highball with the death landing?
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norskagent
Jan 4, 2008, 1:40 PM
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no...that crack is v3 or so. blue moon is the highball seam on the downhill face of one of the first boulders you see coming up from the parking area (2nd big one to the left). It's not really a crack that requires jamming, more of a thin seam w/ a few offsets. Not sure if it has been sent, I know EZ had most of it worked out back-in-the-day.
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camhead
Jan 4, 2008, 1:46 PM
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one more that I'd love to check out sometime... bachar cracker of New England
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norskagent
Jan 4, 2008, 2:40 PM
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lightning bolt at asheboro used to be v6ish before some dolt hacked out the giant foothold in it, now it's a more modest v3.
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knieveltech
Jan 4, 2008, 3:39 PM
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I'm thinking about heading out to Ashboro on Sunday. Any beta on offwidth problems out there (besides the chimney)?
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norskagent
Jan 4, 2008, 3:52 PM
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still need to show you the one by bobblehead/grovelbobble...near the talus area.
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edl
Jan 16, 2008, 10:10 PM
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Here is a video of Cloudwalker. You can also use more jams and less lie backs, depending on your preference. This video doesn't really do the line justice. http://www.b3bouldering.com/?s=cloudwalker This video has some bouldering up at Vedauwoo, including The Red Snapper and The Vedajuicer, as well as a couple other cool problems. http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=kx4MlFYmyeY
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atpeaceinbozeman
Jan 17, 2008, 7:56 PM
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Very nice...I watched all 3. Thanks for posting that up.
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c22
Jan 31, 2008, 9:27 AM
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munky wrote: It not exactly up there with the world's hardest but The Bachar Cracker in Yosemite is no easy tick for a V4. I wouldn't be suprised if some of the kids nowadays who are sending V8-V10 within a few tries would have more trouble with this than the classic V8 at there local area. You'd be wrong.
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norskagent
Jan 31, 2008, 12:54 PM
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c22 wrote: munky wrote: It not exactly up there with the world's hardest but The Bachar Cracker in Yosemite is no easy tick for a V4. I wouldn't be suprised if some of the kids nowadays who are sending V8-V10 within a few tries would have more trouble with this than the classic V8 at there local area. You'd be wrong. So you can speak confidently for ALL v8 kids? nice. Except for the fact that SOME are involuntarily selective about how hard they send - it depends on the location, rock type, climbing style, etc. I have seen this happen numerous times. And not just crack climbing.
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munky
Jan 31, 2008, 2:49 PM
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I agree totally. Take for instance the Blowing Rock boulder problem "Heady Undercling". I think they give this a V4. I went to college in Boone so I've done many of the moderate and easier classics. This was one of my favorite problems. Since moving away from the area I still get the chance to get out there once or twice a year. I took a group of friends of mine there last year who have done the majority of there bouldering at the Gunks and in the gym. One guy had sent a few V9s and and a few others V8s and V7s. I showed them Heady and they spent a little while trying it saying no way is that V4. I just chuckled. By the end of the day a few had managed to link Joey's V8 traverse of the lower 45 as well as onsight Colt 45 and and one guy even managed to link Raw Terror. My point is, and I'm sure you would agree, is that some of the kids these aren't willing to work a "measly" V4 if it might bout them for fear of looking like a chump. They rather go for the numbers. Me, well, I'm perfectly happy with the V4. Hell, that could have been a crux on a 5.12. You should have seen the groups expression after taking them to the M1 boulder and explaining to them the classic line was only V2. They still think I was bullshitting them to this day. Fun stuff. You gotta keep the art of sandbaggin alive. How else will us "old timers" (ok, Im only 29 but damn my fingers just arent what they used to be) burn our younger friends?
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norskagent
Jan 31, 2008, 3:15 PM
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there should be an entirely seperate thread about this very subject!
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reginald805
Jan 31, 2008, 6:08 PM
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I would have to say that bachar cracker is the most beta intensive V4 ive ever done. pretty hard no matter how strong you climb
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dbrayack
Jan 31, 2008, 6:53 PM
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V10 project at Coopers Rock - somewhere in the woods somewhere
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reginald805
Jan 31, 2008, 7:53 PM
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usually a problem of that difficulty doesnt take more than a few tries for me. bachar cracker took me a few sessions. i know grading is different everywhere, but that problem took me longer to get than problems that are supposed to be much harder. and yes, i trad climb, so cracks generally dont give me a hard time.
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roclimb
Feb 9, 2008, 6:02 PM
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milkstones in PA hosts V10 |
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tomPR
Feb 29, 2008, 1:34 PM
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Registered: May 30, 2007
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I originally posted up this thread out of interest for what the hardest is that the US has to offer... As an aside, I've finally finished my crack project back in my homeland of england to give what is probably the country's hardest crack boulder problem. All Elements, V11, 20ft horizontal roof crack. See details here: http://ukbouldering.com/board/index.php/topic,8716.0.html And video here: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=R2Q_NugAhjM
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microbarn
Feb 29, 2008, 2:22 PM
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now clicky
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tomPR
Mar 12, 2008, 3:57 AM
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Nice!!!!!!!!!!!! I'll definitely add that to the list of things to go and look at. Crack House a walk in the park eh?? Any other photos you seen from different angles on this?
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