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mattzilla
Nov 18, 2007, 6:38 AM
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Ive been bouldering in the gym for about a month now, and i would rate my progress as such:
I can do a:
VB: 100%
V0: 98%
V1: 85%
V2: 65%
V3: 10% (a project, limit)
V4: 0%
of the time
but i have led 5.10s in the outdoors
(This post was edited by mattzilla on Nov 18, 2007, 6:40 AM)
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MonkeyInTraining
Nov 19, 2007, 8:06 AM
Post #78 of 93
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Ok maybe I can help shed a little light on the peeps doing v4+ in a few weeks.
I am 5'9" and in good shape, furthermore I am light of frame with strong hands that feel no pain from a few years of commercial fishing. My cardio system however, aint so good. I was troubled by V0's the first few days, then noticed people turning there hips and such, getting there bodys right up against the wall. Some also used toes and heals to take weight off of there arms when on underclings. I watched a bit and then found that easier V1's were suddenly in my range.
After a month now I am sending most of the V1's and a few V2's that fit my style and the shape of my body. One V2+ (they do this + thing at my gym) I can do and a friend who does V3's cant even start. He is stronger but his body is to tall to wedge into a corner I use at the start.
So its all relative. What do you do for a living? Ironworker? Ok I would expect V5's from you. Help Desk? Ok your job aint helping, so you have to get stronger at the gym and its gonna take a while...
To all the attitude, wow I didn't imagine climbers could be so bitchy. I am guessing its mostly because the question touched a few egos. I find I don't care if others are super into numbers or not as I am just trying to not get hurt.
4 broken arms, 2 legs, 3 ribs, a back, ankles and wrists more then I can count. I have learned to stop trying to be better then I am just because someone else is (the hard way). Just be chill, use the numbers if you want. If you dont like it when others do you might want to question why you dont like it, rather then why they do it. The answer might surprise you.
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PepsiTwist
Nov 21, 2007, 5:03 AM
Post #79 of 93
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Having strong hands is no doubt a plus, but it doesnt account for people hopping off the couch and doing V4-V6 within a few weeks. You can be naturally strong and power through V3 and lower no sweat. At a certain point, however, your technique starts playing a bigger and bigger role. If you are just rolling off the couch and sending V4-V6 on pure grip strength, then that would lead me to believe you could send atleast 3 grades harder with proper technique, meaning physically you have the same properties as a V7-V9 climber. I'm sorry, but I'm just not buying it. I'm more likely to buy the reverse of the argument. These people are a mix of mutant and have a very intuitive feel for moving on rock. I still have my doubts, however.
Numbers are fun and I enjoy discussing them. It doesnt bother me one way or the other how hard somebody else is climbing, it wont effect my climbing either way. I just find it interesting that there are so many mutants crushing stout grades within such a short period of time on here while during I've come across none in my actual climbing experience. Doesnt mean they arent out there, but they are a rarer breed than reading through this thread would lead you to believe.
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drunkenhighball
Nov 21, 2007, 10:10 PM
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Indeed.... Although, a the gym the other day I finally got a haeavy dose of the "subjectivity" surrounding grades. I saw some cats working a dyno that I would have put around v4 (though I didn't try it because I thought I might hurt myself). These dudes were FLYING from one jug to the other. I'd say it was 3-4 vertical feet and 6-7 horizontal feet, but the holds were monsterous jugs (so were the feet for that matter). It was quite impressive, but I wonder if they would be able to climb other v4s with bad feet and small crimps. I didn't see them climb anything else, though I could have just not noticed.
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MonkeyInTraining
Nov 27, 2007, 9:25 PM
Post #81 of 93
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I met a girl at my local gym that has been climbing one week as of today. She does V3-4 already... I think it helps that she is an acrobat for the Cirque Du Soleil! I would have thought she had been climbing for years with her level of fitness, she looked like a climber for sure with very good style and control. I would guess she will be on V6-7 in another week or two. Just another example of jobs that make for better climbers.
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wax
Nov 27, 2007, 9:53 PM
Post #82 of 93
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my suggestion? get her phone number.
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cracklover
Nov 27, 2007, 9:53 PM
Post #83 of 93
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Nine years, V3.
I'm guessing the reason why you're seeing such high numbers is because this is the internet. Want to know what real people climb? Ask them. It's not like climbers are hard to find.
GO
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CaptainPolution
Dec 11, 2007, 2:14 AM
Post #84 of 93
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i can rock 4's and get on some 5's. been climbing since 05 with an almost year long break due to injury. grades dont matter, it's all about the moves.
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worldsbestclimber
Dec 11, 2007, 2:29 AM
Post #85 of 93
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u guys r all punters as far as im concerned. Ive been climbing 3 years and send V11s. I guess been a worthless climber must suck.
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wax
Dec 11, 2007, 4:45 PM
Post #87 of 93
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CaptainPolution wrote: i can rock 4's and get on some 5's. been climbing since 05 with an almost year long break due to injury. grades dont matter, it's all about the moves.
i agree... it all depends on the type of problems you enjoy. |
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curt
Dec 14, 2007, 4:12 AM
Post #88 of 93
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cracklover wrote: Nine years, V3. I'm guessing the reason why you're seeing such high numbers is because this is the internet. Want to know what real people climb? Ask them...
Or better yet, actually go bouldering with them. That will separate the internet BS from reality in a hurry.
Curt
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jacksdefeat
Jan 7, 2008, 9:16 PM
Post #89 of 93
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i've been climbing since late July, so, about 5-6'ish months now and i'm just starting to send V1-V2, and working 5.9-5.10 sport.
most of it is my reach (i'm 6'1") and i'm a bigger guy so i have more power for some moves (of course, on the other hand, my body is a bitch to haul around on overhangs and crimpers).
but, this is also mostly plastic, so, it's not really that solid for rating. best outside was a V0 back in Sept., but then it got cold here and i was sequestered to my plastic.
ratings low or no, i still have a damn good time, plastic or rock. i prefer rock, but climbing in indiana, you learn to climb what you have available.
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Stronglikeboulders
Jan 15, 2008, 2:45 AM
Post #90 of 93
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To all you grade naysayers, i agree that numbers aren't everything but come on: Just because Michael Jordan loves to PLAY basketball doesn't mean he can't keep score.
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Archie2
Jan 15, 2008, 10:55 PM
Post #91 of 93
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What was the hardest transition from one grade to the next for anyone? I joined a gym in early November having never climbed before and could only do up to v1's until about a week ago when I did a few v2's and then yesterday did my first v3. Is it just hard getting past the basics? Once you started progressing is it steady growth? Of course it could have just been an easier v3.
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mturner
Jan 16, 2008, 1:20 AM
Post #92 of 93
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Archie2 wrote: What was the hardest transition from one grade to the next for anyone? I joined a gym in early November having never climbed before and could only do up to v1's until about a week ago when I did a few v2's and then yesterday did my first v3. Is it just hard getting past the basics? Once you started progressing is it steady growth? Of course it could have just been an easier v3.
It's my opinion that the transitions get harder as the grades get higher, but that's just been my experience.
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