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paintrain
Jan 2, 2008, 6:28 PM
Post #126 of 173
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I'll see what I can get.
PT
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builttospill
Jan 2, 2008, 8:32 PM
Post #127 of 173
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Don't remember what I was saying here. Move along now....
(This post was edited by builttospill on Jan 3, 2008, 4:50 AM)
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stymingersfink
Jan 3, 2008, 3:45 AM
Post #128 of 173
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Will she go?
perhaps the first question to answer might be... will the cold temps hold?!?
Looks like a 7 pitch WI5+ M-hard to me... better start rounding up the guns!
edit to add:
In Dave Black's Ice Climbing Utah guide, it's actually listed as Shower Tower, WI5 150', described as two pillars, 60' and 90'. I'm wondering if those upper daggers might be reached by a combination of mixed climbing and perhaps aiding where necessary...
That could be one hell of an extension.
I know just who to call, too. 
Swiss Miss PM'd!
(This post was edited by stymingersfink on Jan 3, 2008, 3:58 AM)
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dr_feelgood
Jan 3, 2008, 5:31 PM
Post #129 of 173
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Catskills ice.
Just sayin'
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paintrain
Jan 3, 2008, 9:20 PM
Post #131 of 173
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Nein.
I would call this swiss miss.
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stymingersfink
Jan 3, 2008, 11:22 PM
Post #132 of 173
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paintrain wrote: Nein. I would call this swiss miss.
Yep, you got it!
<shameless spray>
that's my pic of her, soloing Cobble Cruncher, BTW
</shameless spray>
I don't know if I coined the phrase in this instance, but it's certainly appropriate.
Unfortunately for the rest of us, she's no longer available... she got married last year.
Fortunately for me, Adam doesn't seem to mind loaning me his rope gun.
(This post was edited by stymingersfink on Jan 3, 2008, 11:31 PM)
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paintrain
Jan 3, 2008, 11:46 PM
Post #133 of 173
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She's a lot of fun and talk about horsepower.
She'd be a good one to let loose on that thing.
PT
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stymingersfink
Jan 3, 2008, 11:59 PM
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paintrain wrote: She's a lot of fun and talk about horsepower. She'd be a good one to let loose on that thing. PT
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stymingersfink
Jan 6, 2008, 4:51 AM
Post #135 of 173
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Went to P7 on Stairway today with clipinmt... the ice was wet styrofoam hero-ice for the most part, super fun to cruise up. P6 was an icy wet whore of a mixed line. I wished I hadn't talked MT into getting on it after he'd talked himself into backing off. For the record, from the anchor at the bottom of P7, 70M ropes will put you at the bottom of P5 with rope to spare, 60M ropes might do the same, with rope stretch, IDK.
Temps are cooling, get after it.
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solitudeclimber
Jan 12, 2008, 12:37 AM
Post #137 of 173
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Greetings everyone - I hope the ice season is treating you well.
Any recent updates on any of the UT ice, just wondering if the recent warm weather storms have had a substantial negative impact on the ice:
Malans
LLC - GWI
LLC - Scruffy Band
Santaquin (Squash Head, Back Off)
BVF
Any info anyone has on anything would be very appreciated
Thanks,
J
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paintrain
Jan 12, 2008, 2:44 PM
Post #138 of 173
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I saw a couple of climbers on storm mountain yesterday afternoon.
Was it you?
PT
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stymingersfink
Jan 14, 2008, 2:43 AM
Post #139 of 173
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Na, I went down to Provo Canyon on Saturday intending to solo Stairway if I couldn't find a partner. Well, there was a rather large group from Exum playing on the right side of the apron, an a group of U.U. students playing on the left. I counted 11 TR's at that point.
Well, I pimped around a bit till I found a student who'd not yet been above the apron, but was willing to follow anything that had a rope, so I went to the top of 5 with him in tow. He did pretty well, only fell once near the top of 5 when his tool slipped out his hand. Didn't take 'im too long to get back up to it, luckily it was right at the top so I could see what was going on. lost one of my biners though... a blue petzl Spirit if anyone should happen to find it
Thinking it may have left clipped to an anchor, I took another friend up there today and scrounged around for it, with no luck. She did pretty well, till her crampon came off in the middle of p5. There was a v-thread where a guy bailed from yesterday right at her waist, so I had her clip direct and put the 'pon back on, whereby she scampered right up the rest of the way.
Prophet on a Stick is looking pretty enticing, but I think I may have to hit up Shower Tower next weekend if this weather holds. I've never been there, and I'd love to check it out.
Anybody been to Santaquin this past weekend? How's things looking just east of ACT... Big curtain/dagger hanging off the roof-edge up high, but no pillar showing up just yet?
DK, you gots a maple report?
(This post was edited by stymingersfink on Jan 14, 2008, 5:12 AM)
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triassic
Jan 15, 2008, 12:18 AM
Post #140 of 173
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Sorry got no Maple report. I had ankle surgery after Xmas and have been salivating looking at all the new ice in Rock Canyon and then watching it melt away. I should be out again next week. I haven't talked to anyone who's been to Maple either.
Layne from Huntington said a bunch of stuff was in Joe's including Primadonna and Spear of Fear.
Battlecreek (in between Provo and AF)
I did get in one afternoon at Battlecreek and it was awesome as well as a two-pitch route about 100 yards on your right before you get to the falls near a bridge. It was a grade or so harder than Battlecreek. Not sure of its name though, I asked Jim Knight and he said he never did it, but maybe Brian Smoot has.
The first pitch was about 150 feet of ice and about WI4+ and the second about 30 feet of ice and about WI2+.
There were a few more ice climbs further up Battlecreek on your right after the main falls, looked kinda hard.
Good luck sending! Darren.
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bsmoot
Jan 15, 2008, 4:27 AM
Post #141 of 173
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Hi Darren:
I've never climbed at Battle Creek. Thanks for posting up about this area. Perhaps you could post this up on MP...they seem to have a good selection of ice climbs now.
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paintrain
Jan 16, 2008, 7:57 PM
Post #142 of 173
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No go on santaquin aerial shots. Apparently pilots don't like flying into tight dead end canyons.
Climbed scruffy last night. Its in, but thin in spots. Cold as ballz and starting to get brittle.
PT
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builttospill
Jan 16, 2008, 8:13 PM
Post #143 of 173
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Thin in the middle and end rambling sections of Pitch 1? I recall it getting thin at the end of P1, but it ain't much to worry about in my opinion. Those pillars start getting thin, that's a different story although you can always hike off before that or hike around and TR them if one were to feel so inclined.
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brianinslc
Jan 16, 2008, 9:23 PM
Post #144 of 173
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paintrain wrote: Climbed scruffy last night. Its in, but thin in spots. Cold as ballz and starting to get brittle.
Hey, at least if its going to be cold, it might as well be windy too.
I think its commonly thin in zee middle and below the final steep.
Got a funny pic of us from last night and its fairly easy to tell who's feet are thawing out and in the throes of the screaming barfys.
Whoo hoo!
-Brian in SLC
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paintrain
Jan 16, 2008, 9:23 PM
Post #145 of 173
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We did the whole thing in a 70m stretch pitch all the way up the pillar at the end.
The ice at the top was thin (tied off 13cm screw).
The cold had the ice popping and cracking as it contracted last night. Pretty unusual for Utah.
PT
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brianinslc
Jan 16, 2008, 9:26 PM
Post #146 of 173
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Don't forget the open water, too. Common that ice dams bust when the temps plunge.
That makes the evening even funner: f'in' around with wet and frozen ropes on the rappel. Full value.
-Brian in SLC
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clipinmt
Jan 17, 2008, 12:59 AM
Post #147 of 173
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Does anyone know anything about pitch seven on stairway and if there are bolts missing on the roof before you get to the ice?
When I was up there a few weekends ago it seemed like some pro was missing. Duno if something fell off or the climbing gets easier the steeper it gets.
Gear?
MT
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stymingersfink
Jan 17, 2008, 1:16 AM
Post #148 of 173
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MT:
As of Sunday the "missing" ice blobs have fully appeared, making the "missing" bolts a non-issue as far as I can tell. The blobs look big and bomber, they would probably take 19's or 22's even!
I've been trying to round up some draws similar to those hanging on Contrivance, but if something similar cannot be found there's a benefactor willing to throw down some bones to replace the trash hanging there.
Saturday? 
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builttospill
Jan 17, 2008, 4:58 PM
Post #149 of 173
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According to utahclimbers.com the major Joe's Valley climbs are all in (spear of fear, melty way, ccc falls, etc).
www.iceclimbingutah.com also states that scruffy band may not be in, but it definitely.
For what it's worth, I attempted to email conditions updates to the email address info@iceclimbingutah.com a couple of days ago and the email got returned as undeliverable.
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paintrain
Jan 17, 2008, 10:22 PM
Post #150 of 173
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I couldn't get an email to go through to iceclimbingutah.com either after numerous tries from different emails.
pt
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