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couch
Jan 18, 2008, 9:32 PM
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hi,
only climbed indoors, but keen to go outdoors this year. Indoors the draws are in place already so the question I have (probably a stupid one, but I am a complete beginner) is if you cannot finish an outdoor clmb and you have been clipping in your own quickdraws as you go up, how do you retrieve the top one which would be, say, half way up the climb?
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shimanilami
Jan 18, 2008, 9:45 PM
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The most common method is to use a "leaver 'biner", which is typically an old junker 'biner you don't want any more. You clip the bolt with your "leaver 'biner", clip your rope through that, retrieve your draw, and lower off.
There are ways of getting down without leaving anything at all, but they're a bit more complicated. You can search for those methods on this site. (I'm too lazy to find the link for you.)
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onceahardman
Jan 18, 2008, 9:48 PM
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Learn to downclimb. It will serve you well when you leave the dark side, and start climbing trad.
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summerprophet
Jan 18, 2008, 9:58 PM
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Couch,
As mentioned, the commonest way is to leave a "leaver biner". This is a great use for all the crap biners you find, or ones that have developed poor gate action over time.
After falling, and failing to get any higher, climb to your draw and clip the Leaver biner UNDER your draw. Once clipping the rope to it and having your partner take the slack, you should be easilly able to clean your draw and have you belayer GENTLY (as you have no backup) lower you to the ground.
3/8" screw links are also used quite commonly in place of a leaver biner.
NOTE: As you will be new to outside climbing, please be aware that what you leave behind, the next climber is going to have to climb up too, and pass. Big biners that take up the entire hanger, or tied webbing are not acceptable, as they screw over the next guy.
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climbingaggie03
Jan 18, 2008, 10:02 PM
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You can also climb an easier route next to the route you failed to get up, or get to the top of the cliff (via climbing another route or walking around) and rappel down from the top to clean your gear.
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shimanilami
Jan 18, 2008, 10:09 PM
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Even better is to have someone who can finish the climb ... well, finish the climb. You may need to offer something up. I respond well to beer and bong hits.
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couch
Jan 18, 2008, 10:31 PM
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seems obvious when you think about it. cheers for the help, Im starting to pick up the lingo. next Im gonna have to learn how to rappel.
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couch
Jan 18, 2008, 10:33 PM
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ahh yes, I will have to remember to take some extra 'gear' when I go.
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corson
Jan 19, 2008, 12:42 AM
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for beer and bong hits i'll play rope gun!!!!!
(This post was edited by corson on Jan 19, 2008, 12:45 AM)
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couch
Jan 19, 2008, 6:11 PM
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just so as I know, what is the standard kit for a sport climber?
harness
rope
any particular type, length?
chalk / bag
belay device
Karabiners
Quickdraws
How many? which type? straight/bent gate type?
Descender any suggestions on type/make?
cheers for any help
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wenclg1
Jan 19, 2008, 6:18 PM
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1st off.. an experienced partner so don't have to ask people on the interent questions which regard your life. 
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couch
Jan 19, 2008, 6:42 PM
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surely asking questions on a forum is useful for a beginner. Its simply just one of many sources of information. Experienced partners, courses, books etc are others. The more the merrier.
Im open to listening to any advice that can help reduce the risks.
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EPiCJAMES
Jan 19, 2008, 7:00 PM
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couch wrote: just so as I know, what is the standard kit for a sport climber? harness rope any particular type, length? chalk / bag belay device Karabiners Quickdraws How many? which type? straight/bent gate type? Descender any suggestions on type/make? cheers for any help
you forgot the bong and beer. must have at least a bong...and water, damn i hate when that happens...
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couch
Jan 19, 2008, 7:11 PM
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bong and beer are a given obviously.
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EPiCJAMES
Jan 19, 2008, 7:36 PM
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couch wrote: bong and beer are a given obviously.
and so is a harness, yet you included that. just wanted to make sure you had everything you need.
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Myxomatosis
Jan 20, 2008, 2:45 AM
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harness
rope
any particular type, length? Dynamic 60m around a 10mm diameter (mines 9.8 but some people dont like it because its small)
chalk / bag
belay device ATC-X
Karabiners x1 largish one for your ATC, x1 for your rappel backup, x2 for your safety's (cows tail), x2 just in case's
Quickdraws
How many? which type? straight/bent gate type? Most sport routes are no more than 12 draws.. I only have 9 and my partner has 6, so we have more than enough. All of them have bent and straight gates (that Ive seen), straight into the wall, bent end for the rope. I think you mean wire gates or solid gates? Comes down to what you like.
Descender any suggestions on type/make? Use your ATC if you want to descend?
So you will need two bits of sling for some safety's at the top of a climb, some people use quick draws, some people use pursk, some people use slings.
And you will need to learn how to build a rappel back up with pursk cord. Just do a search and you will ton's of info on how to do it.
(This post was edited by Myxomatosis on Jan 20, 2008, 2:51 AM)
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summerprophet
Jan 20, 2008, 3:05 AM
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Your list is pretty comprehensive for a sport climber, All you are missing are rock shoes which is pretty obvious.
Ropes - for your first rope, get whatever is cheapest and thicker than 10mm, Lots of forums on this allready
Quickdraws - kind of dependant on your climbing area. Generally a minimum of 8, usually not more that 13. If you plan on turning into a hardcore sport climber, the stiffer the draw the better. If you intend on taking up trad climbing, longer and floppier is what you want.
Any draws will work of course. If cost is an issue, get some on the cheap, otherwise find out what feels good in your hand. Check that all the biners have similar spring tension. Play with clipping in theh store and see if you prefer wiregates or keylock biners.
Decenders, everyone has their own preference, if you climb in the gym, chances are your belay device will do double duty as your rap device.
Grab a book on basic anchors, and ask around your gym for someone to show you how to identify bad bolts.
Best of luck to you, and remember, for all you know, I could know nothing about climbing, and might just enjoy giving out information that can kill you. Always get reliable information from someone you trust.
Again, best of luck to you man, enjoy.
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couch
Jan 20, 2008, 11:42 AM
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yeah but I dont need advice on beers and bongs.
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jmagnus17
Jan 20, 2008, 1:26 PM
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couch wrote: just so as I know, what is the standard kit for a sport climber? harness rope any particular type, length? chalk / bag belay device Karabiners Quickdraws How many? which type? straight/bent gate type? Descender any suggestions on type/make? cheers for any help
If you're a true sport jockey don't forget your drill gun and shiny new bolts!
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zakadamsgt
Jan 20, 2008, 3:37 PM
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wait - I thought trad climbing was the dark side? 
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sava6e
Feb 18, 2008, 5:04 AM
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TEXAS ROPE TRICK!!!!!!!!!!!!!
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shoo
Feb 18, 2008, 5:18 AM
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as far as I know, there has yet to be a version of the texas rope trick which works for quickdraws, and there definitely hasn't been one which wouldn't make me shit my pants on the descent.
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musicman1586
Feb 18, 2008, 5:42 AM
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shoo wrote: as far as I know, there has yet to be a version of the texas rope trick which works for quickdraws, and there definitely hasn't been one which wouldn't make me shit my pants on the descent.
What do you mean doesn't work with quickdraws? The Texas Rope Trick is a sport-only trick as far as I know it
http://www.climbing.com/print/techtips/ttsport223/
maybe there's various things that this is applied to, but that's what I know as the TX Rope Trick.
Oh and Couch, go ahead and read that article if you want, but DO NOT ATTEMPT that trick right now, its easy to screw up, and requires a good understanding of rappelling, rope work, knots, etc. I tried it a couple times in the gym just for the hell of it, another trick to add to the arsenal, and while its simplistic in its nature, when you're actually setting it up it becomes quite a mess of rope in a confined area, very easy to get confused and messed up.
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shoo
Feb 18, 2008, 5:45 AM
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Ah, you are right. For some reason I was thinking of something involving pulling the trigger on a cam from some other thread. Either way, I'd much rather lose a leaver biner in almost any case.
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