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Arrogant_Bastard
Jan 4, 2008, 5:38 PM
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I heard there's some great trad at PTFTW.
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cchas
Jan 8, 2008, 3:44 AM
Post #27 of 43
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For finding a place to live, Nor Cal isn't bad for a trad climber, Sugarloaf, Lovers Leap (a moderate mecca), Cal-Dome (a really under-appreciated mecca with really good routes), and then of course, Yosemite.
So-Cal with access to the Cali Needles, (a place that every trad climber should climb it atleast once), Tahquiz.....
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Arrogant_Bastard
Jan 8, 2008, 6:14 AM
Post #28 of 43
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cchas wrote: For finding a place to live, Nor Cal isn't bad for a trad climber, Sugarloaf, Lovers Leap (a moderate mecca), Cal-Dome (a really under-appreciated mecca with really good routes), and then of course, Yosemite. So-Cal with access to the Cali Needles, (a place that every trad climber should climb it atleast once), Tahquiz.....
Ahem. Ixnay on the aliCay.
The East Coasters tell me that New York is where it's at.
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piton
Jan 8, 2008, 12:16 PM
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Arrogant_Bastard wrote: lithiummetalman wrote: A few places come to mind -Lake Tahoe area - California -Joshua Tree area - California -Eldo Canyon area - Colorado -Mammoth area - California -Castle Crags area - California -Shawnagunks - New York -Taquitz and Suicide Rocks - California -Seneca area - Arizona -Indian Creek - Utah -Black Hills area - South Dakota -Red Rocks area - Nevada Area - 100's of other great places There are 100's of great places to climb, I'd say pick a bunch of states (with vast amounts of granite, rhyolite, or any somewhat solid rock type) and just research the crap out of them, you'll find something. Did you just call Yosemite the "Mammoth Area"?
also Seneca is now located in Arizona. I guess that place in West Virginia is no good
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clymber
Jan 8, 2008, 1:08 PM
Post #30 of 43
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black canyon
red river gorge
acadia
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cchas
Jan 8, 2008, 2:32 PM
Post #31 of 43
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piton wrote: also Seneca is now located in Arizona. I guess that place in West Virginia is no good
He was probably meaning Sedona, which has quite a few new multipitch routes, but wouldn't call it a destination, but as a place to live as a trad climber not bad.
-Granite Mountain -Prescott, Az 1.5hrs
-Paradise Forks- Parks, Az 25miles- single pitch only
-Sedona/Oak Creek Canyon ~25 miles
-Isolation Canyon
-Winslow Wall
then if you want to drive
4hrs to Red Rocks (dependinbg on the construction at Hoover Dam)
5hrs to Indian Creek
~4hrs to Cochise Stronghold
As for someone who has lived in NYC, and Nor Cal, I havee to say that Az has the most convienent trad climbing (and decent access to ice if you live in No-Az) with a moderate drive to the San Juans- but for access to the most spectacular climbing, I'd say Nor Cal
Have to say that I love the Gunks and its great for a particular kind of trad climbing (roofs and face) and very friendly in starting out trad climbing, but I will go out on a limb and commit blasphemy,... to really develop as an all around trad climber; its not the best place. You don't learn crack climbing, and off widths, and to be a good all around trad climber you need it all, cracks(from fingers to offwidths), slabs, face.....-The Daks has ok cracks though.
(This post was edited by cchas on Jan 8, 2008, 2:51 PM)
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pfc-monty
Jan 8, 2008, 10:30 PM
Post #32 of 43
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Idaho kicks ass for fun multi pitch off the radar trad. City of Rocks and Castle Rocks are damned cool too.
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percious
Jan 8, 2008, 11:29 PM
Post #33 of 43
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For me, I want alpine climbing close by too.
Denver/Boulder, CO - Just about anything you can imagine within 1 hours drive
Albany, NY Gunks < 2 hours, Adk < 2 hours
Manchester, NH - North Conway < 2 hours, ME a few more. VT (Smuggler's Notch 3 hours)
I lived in CT for almost 30 years and there is some great climbing there too, with local crags <45 mins away (all trad, most climbs are PG though) and 2 hours gets you to the gunks, 4 hours ADK, 5 hours to North Conway.
-chris
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petsfed
Jan 8, 2008, 11:49 PM
Post #34 of 43
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percious wrote: For me, I want alpine climbing close by too. Denver/Boulder, CO - Just about anything you can imagine within 1 hours drive Albany, NY Gunks < 2 hours, Adk < 2 hours Manchester, NH - North Conway < 2 hours, ME a few more. VT (Smuggler's Notch 3 hours) I lived in CT for almost 30 years and there is some great climbing there too, with local crags <45 mins away (all trad, most climbs are PG though) and 2 hours gets you to the gunks, 4 hours ADK, 5 hours to North Conway. -chris
And even more within a day's drive. There's a really low signal-to-noise ratio in the Boulder area just because there are a ton of mediocre climbs, but its a really good location to launch a ton of trips from.
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andrewbanandrew
Jan 21, 2008, 11:21 AM
Post #35 of 43
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Index, WA - clean granite http://kimsey.stonepics.com/climbing/index_wa.jpg
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surgeon1
Jan 21, 2008, 4:37 PM
Post #36 of 43
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I would second the red river gorge. Although known as a sport destination, it has some great single pitch trad routes. The best thing about trad climbing at the red is the relative lack of crowds compared to the congested sport routes.
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justroberto
Jan 21, 2008, 10:24 PM
Post #37 of 43
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surgeon1 wrote: The best thing about trad climbing at the red is the relative lack of crowds compared to the congested sport routes.
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southforkclimber
Jan 21, 2008, 10:40 PM
Post #38 of 43
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did i miss anyone mention southwest montana? anything around butte is gravy. and second indian creek, and add moab.
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climb_eng
Jan 21, 2008, 10:46 PM
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Boulder has always intimidated me... from what I've heard the scene really sucks, and the locals aren't really interested in welcoming new people into their community. Consequently even though half the city climbs, it's hard to find partners if you're new and don't climb super hard. Is this true (for those of you who have lived/live in Colorado?)
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clymber
Jan 22, 2008, 12:40 AM
Post #40 of 43
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i used to live in golden and from some of the ppl i knew out there if you say you cimb at a certain grade they expect you to climb at that grade all the time....there are days when i love to go out and climb 6,7,8s all day and then days i want to push it...no big ego here to have to show off and impress ppl all the time...i climb for me not them
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clemsonscooby
Jan 22, 2008, 2:19 PM
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Laurel Knob is the tallest crag east of the Miss. This place is just waiting for your multi-pitch FA's. There are already a few established routes, but plenty of room for new ones. This is probably the purest trad in N.C. I definitely love the other classic crags in the area, but LK is amazing.
Rock and Ice already named Chattanooga the best east coast climbing city due to its proximity of walls.
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mountainstuss
Feb 18, 2008, 3:32 AM
Post #43 of 43
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The High Sierra
Yosemite
Tahquitz
Granite Mountain, AZ
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