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soccer_fan
Jan 18, 2008, 2:06 AM
Post #151 of 173
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Hello all, info@iceclimbingutah.com should work now - thanks for the update on that. I've tried to makes sure that I've been citing this thread for all the good info. I'm sorry that the email address was outta commission for a while.
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stymingersfink
Jan 20, 2008, 2:26 AM
Post #152 of 173
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Just went up to hit Creamsickle today with clipinmt.
I will say very few things about it, other than:
1. The pillar is shorter and more difficult than it appears from the road. The approach slabs MIGHT take some 13cm screws, but we solo'd it.
2. I, at one point, was scared (nearly shitless) I would lose my grip and hit the deck. I looped the cord over my fang and holler'd "TAKE ON YELLOW!", then kept a sharp eye on that tool and a firm grip on the other as I fished my leashes out of my coat and put them on one-handed with a little help from my teeth.
3. The pillar is shorter and much more difficult than it appears from the road. Get up on it!
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builttospill
Jan 20, 2008, 7:14 AM
Post #153 of 173
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Sounds pretty scary Sty.
Went to Joe's Valley today. Posted details on utahclimbers.com.
All the climbs we saw were in good shape except Bushdiver (rotten). CCC Falls and Melty Way were both in excellent shape. Heard for others that Highway to Heaven was also. Surprise Party looked good from the road.
I managed to not scare myself at all today. Everything felt really moderate, despite leading harder than I ever have before. I credit the new crampons, but the ratings in Joe's might be a bit soft in the WI4-5 range (probably more like WI4....very steppy).
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stymingersfink
Jan 21, 2008, 4:32 AM
Post #154 of 173
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Went down to maple canyon today...
Went way-back into the Box and got on Golden Plum, which turned out to be the warm-up for the day, aside from the hike in. Beautiful golden-yellow ice, as yet unclimbed for the year I would have to guess, as there were no tracks above Maple Corner Left (which was in climbing condition, first time I've seen it in since being introduced to the place five years ago).
On the hike in, we passed many Maple Canyon rarities in climbing shape. Hickory Smoke was in (last beta available was: bring a bolt kit to replace the single-bolt anchor if you're planning on topping out), Frozen Lizards was tempting, The Dagger was waiting for an ascent, and those with no will to live should visit Jesus Wept. Sandbagger, Tied Off Stubbies, Dos Gusanos... more I didn't even bother to look up in the guide. All the regular stuff was in of course: Cobble Cruncher was ready to go, Maple Moon had a few climbers tooling up for it on the hike out and Maple Syrup had been climbed some time in the past week.
Outside the Box there was Bottomless Topless, which was climbed several weeks ago, most of the road ice was in good shape, and MTP looked primed and ready to go (well, the pillar at least... the upper trough looked a little sun-baked).
The two others in our party had caught some wrinkle-necked brown trout, but needed a suitable place to release them, so we hiked up the road to the confluence of the forks so they could take care of business. I decided I was willing to hike up the trail and check out a climb I'd had my eye on for a couple years. Yeah, it was in... and had been climbed some time in the previous week.
After examining the ice a little closer while the remaining party member made his way to the base, I committed myself mentally to sending it. I geared up while someone else made like a porcupine, prepared myself mentally, then got down to the business of getting up.
They said it only took me 30 min to climb the 140'... to me it seemed like an eternity.
What was it, you ask? Only the most mentally challenging climb I've ever done. Yeah, it's in, and finally tick'd.
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bsmoot
Jan 21, 2008, 6:16 AM
Post #155 of 173
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Sty:
Good job on Creamsickle. Nice to see you guys getting off the beaten path. Sounds like the conditions were thin...kinda like in 1983. Back then, the river crossing was easy. An avalanche had filled up the riverbed...so we just walked across.
More recently (2005 or 2006) I climbed it in thicker conditions. It was actually fun, because we were able to get good screws in. We went back and added some rap anchors. The first pitch always seems thin though...really like the climb.
(This post was edited by bsmoot on Jan 21, 2008, 5:09 PM)
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clipinmt
Jan 21, 2008, 4:41 PM
Post #156 of 173
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sounds like 83 all over again cause that same bridge is there this year.
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jnrose5
Jan 28, 2008, 8:48 PM
Post #157 of 173
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I'm wondering if some of the folks from this forum would consider putting some time and energy into writing up routes and descriptions on one of the websites (rockclimbing.com or mountainproject.com). Both are pretty incomplete as far as Utah Ice goes. As far as I can tell, this forum is pretty much the only place to get decent beta, including the guide books.
That being said, I had my first Utah ice climbing experience this weekend, and I'm amazed at the quantity and quality of ice in the hills. I understand that it's a good year, but this is awesome! Thanks for the helpful posts...
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stymingersfink
Jan 28, 2008, 10:30 PM
Post #158 of 173
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I've been adding routes to MP as I tic them, or add them to my hit list, if they're not already there.
I've found that I like their route data entry process over there better than the one here, so that's where they'll go from here on. Their forums aren't nearly as lively though, so it's not quite a one-stop-shopping experience.
You should be able to find 66 ice routes in their DB so far for Utah. Using the drop-down menu "Show Routes" and selecting "Ice" will give you little red number crumbs to follow. I'm sure there's much left to be entered, but since it seems the courtesy has been to leave un-entered routes for someone who has climbed it to enter into the DB, it still sits incomplete (as if it could ever be "complete").
I'll be doing my best to add to it as I tic them off my list. It's difficult to avoid some of those routes I've been on however, as when things are questionable it seems easier to hit those of some reliability rather than spend a day driving/hiking and come home empty handed. I am employed, afterall. 
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paintrain
Jan 28, 2008, 11:15 PM
Post #159 of 173
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Thanks for putting up the info Sty.
I was having a hard time finding stuff on MP, but will follow your directions.
PT
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builttospill
Jan 29, 2008, 5:24 AM
Post #161 of 173
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I've added a few routes to the database at summitpost.org but the mountainproject database is much better.
My issue is more that most of the routes are well-described in Dave Black's book Ice Climbing Utah, so it seems redundant to list them. Now, when it comes to Maple Canyon, mixed stuff, or cutting edge stuff, that might not be true. But for the average guy like me, Dave Black's book is plenty.
That said, Sty....I might be heading to Maple this saturday. Any suggestions for stuff to lead, knowing where I'm at? I'm thinking there ain't much in the way of top-roping there, given the geography, and I'll probably be the main person leading on this particular day. Cobble Cruncher seems logical, but any other suggestions?
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stymingersfink
Jan 29, 2008, 1:52 PM
Post #162 of 173
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in the WI4 range?
When we were up there last weekend Andy was pointing out a few climbs I'd seen before, but haven't been on. One of them might interest you, as it appeared to offer some challenging climbing, and not entirely due to the ice quality/condition.
Hike up the road, past the Box, keeping an eye on your left side for a tight alcove hidden behind a thin veil of trees, about 10' deep and maybe 90' tall with (wi4-ish) ice in the back of it. Reportedly, an anchor may be found on climber's right.
Get on it, then report back with what you find
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wanderlustmd
Jan 29, 2008, 2:14 PM
Post #163 of 173
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Registered: Oct 24, 2006
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Looks like a Utah-based thread, but for those who may be interested, here is pic of Overall Run in the Shenendoah, VA from this past weekend:
Good stuff for round these parts, yessir.
Send us a cold front, Sty.
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paintrain
Jan 29, 2008, 4:40 PM
Post #164 of 173
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Last saturday a good number of WI4 ish climbs on the left side of the road were in directly across from box and on up the road for a ways.
Cobble cruncher was in good shape.
Pt
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carabiner96
Jan 29, 2008, 6:40 PM
Post #165 of 173
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Registered: Apr 10, 2006
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Smuggler's Notch on Easy:
Again, more in the direction of Snotcicle:
pretty damn sweet.
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stymingersfink
Jan 29, 2008, 9:05 PM
Post #166 of 173
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wanderlustmd wrote: Looks like a Utah-based thread, but for those who may be interested, here is pic of Overall Run in the Shenendoah, VA from this past weekend: [image]http://i260.photobucket.com/albums/ii7/Wanderlustmd/IMG_0187.jpg[/image] Good stuff for round these parts, yessir. Send us a cold front, Sty.
I'd give you a cold-front, I really would, provided it wouldn't short us out here of the next two storm waves expected here in Utah.
Nice pics, wanderlust... you too, 'biner. Those look VERY inviting. Did you guys get on one of them, and if so, how'd you do?
Here's a pic from last weekend.
click the pic for some details on the shot.
in the background you will see Peter V., clipinmt, and Lisa S., while the belayer's name escapes me right
now...
edit to add: clicky the picky should take you to an MP page, where the photo caption and route info can be found.
edit #2 to add: after exchanging emails with the FA Chris Harmston, I have added a separate route to the MP database as 7th Heaven, and another pic from a few minutes later of Scott on the route.
(This post was edited by stymingersfink on Jan 31, 2008, 5:02 AM)
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wanderlustmd
Jan 30, 2008, 1:08 PM
Post #167 of 173
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I ticked the central pillar. Felt about WI4. The ice was different than what I was used to back in New England (more gulleys, etc.). Lots of fun.
The chandelier on the left was disintegrating as the day went on, that was probably 5. The major flow on the right went at 4+, according to my friend.
Good times were had.
Your link just opened a new page for the pic, Sty. No info. Do you have the page link?
Good job on the WI6 you talked about above, btw!
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stymingersfink
Feb 13, 2008, 3:02 AM
Post #168 of 173
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Well, today it hit the mid-40's in salt lake, hinting at season's end soon to be knocking at the door.
Well, for this area, at least. I know you guys up in Canada, Eh? are probably going to be enjoing the season longer than I will, but I digress.
The only thing I have to hope for in the meantime, other than cold frosty days, is that we don't get hit by a laser.
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builttospill
Feb 13, 2008, 6:02 PM
Post #169 of 173
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Registered: Jan 8, 2004
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I was going to call you a pessimist until I saw the 15-day forecast at accuweather. I was hoping for another quick cold spell to get two more climbs in.
Won't be happening.....hitting 51 in the valleys in a week or so.
And rain! For the love of god, anything but rain!
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wanderlustmd
Feb 20, 2008, 3:22 PM
Post #170 of 173
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The season is pretty much toast here in virginia. We are in that limbo between rock and ice. I think I'll go aid climbing this weekend....
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stymingersfink
Feb 24, 2008, 5:27 AM
Post #171 of 173
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drove down to maple today, with a slight detour through Santaquin to introduce someone to the approach there as well. The road was rutted snow, though someone got their Honda car as far as the cattle guard (knocking nearly a half-mile off their approach hike), I was completely surprised to see that they made it that far in that little car. Nice work, Jazz (Chas?)
Picked up a party of three on the way in... Shingo, Eric and Nate (Brandon? i met too many new people today to keep everyone straight in my head... sorry! )
anyway, the fog was lying too low to actually see any of the ice there, though a couple of guys got after it (post up, let us know what the ice was like). I drove the party of three back to their car at the end of the clear pavement, then continued on my way towards Maple.
There were a few vehicles in the parking area, temps were warm, so we planned on hitting some of the less-than-vert ice along the road. On the hike in we passed a tight chute that a couple of guys were working on an FA in, Bottomless Topless in pretty wet shape (though fat too) and an untracked entrance to Box Canyon. No point in going in there, we didn't have a death wish, so we got on the three climbs on the south side of the road near the mouth of the Box.
The ice was holding a little snow, underneath was plenty of hero-ice to be found. An old friend who I'd not seen much of in the past 1.5 years showed up, offering tales of 14mos. spent in China, and a pair of the new Cobras to loan.
Now, when I got a chance last month to try out the new Vipers, I discovered that I absolutely hated them. Their feel and swing was just too different from my original Vipers to feel comfortable swinging them on steep ice. Did I mention that I hated those orange Vipers? I swore I would never purchase a pair, and that I probably would never try those new Cobras either, since their Geometry appear so similar.
HOWEVER... after watching Andy swing those Cobras up a nice little WI3, I just couldn't resist asking to borrow them for a route or two. Well, that and the fact that I, in a moment of extreme brain-fartedness, left MY Vipers at the top of their next climb when I rapped off .
Well, I took those Cobras, the ones Andy's response to the question "How you like those tools" was an absolute "I wouldn't climb with anything else", and within three sticks I was stricken in lust. I couldn't fucking believe how nicely they swung, how good they felt, how light they were.... all in all, a complete package as good as (actually better than) my original Vipers. They felt so good to swing I climbed the two adjacent pitches as quickly as I could.
Anyway, I digress... this is about the ice, not the tools.
The ice was plastic/hero ice, last nights snow occasionally cascading off the cliff-tops in magnificent displays of crystal curtains. Though the steep stuff wasn't exactly in a condition to climb, it was certainly worth the drive. It didn't do much for my outlook on the rest of the season around these parts though.
Time perhaps to start thinking about splitter sandstone cracks... Unless we get a cold snap, that is. There's still a bunch of stuff down in Maple I'd like to tic, it's just gotta be relatively safe enough to not be considered suicide to attempt.
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pyramid
Dec 22, 2008, 4:50 PM
Post #173 of 173
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Ice Park in Ouray is horrible, very thin and deep snow on the topouts. Not worth the drive from too far away.
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