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Gear for winter walls
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doktor_g


Jan 26, 2008, 10:29 AM
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Registered: Oct 14, 2003
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Gear for winter walls
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So looks like I might be returning to the frozen north for some big wall action. I was very underwelmed with my equipment choices in 2005. Since then I've given my boots away (vinylized leather), and still use my gloves, but for skiing only. Here's what I'm looking for:

1. BOOTS:
I want to know what you think are the best winter/arctic expedition boots for aid. I may go free a little, but it will be VERY VERY VERY rare. So I'm considering plastic too. Last time a partner had pretty good luck with some Vasque hybrid type boots. The other problem is spring thaw. We were up to our knees in slush. So, if they have replaceable liners I could get two pair and keep one dry. I'm bringing high galoshes this time and either snowshoes or skis.

2. GLOVES. Last time my OR gloves did OK, but I didn't really get on the wall that much. Since I've gotten more wall experience I don't think my fancy schmancy O.R. gloves will survive the big stone. I'm thinking wool lined work gloves. Any of y'all have any AK construction experience?

3. CAMP BOOTIES. I'm not going to be in mountain boots the whole time. I need a good synthetic muckluk (sp?) for camp and tent and wandering the wastelands.

Thanks,
Grover


skinner


Jan 31, 2008, 5:16 AM
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Re: [doktor_g] Gear for winter walls [In reply to]
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When you say "frozen north", how far north are we talking? Baffin Island kind of stuff?

As far as a pure plastic boot for aid, while being great for standing in aiders, the lack of friction on the toe really sucks. They tend to skate all over the rock. The few that have a *thin* layer of sticky rubber on the toe, I'm afraid you'd thrash and be back down plastic in a very short time anyway.

It's difficult to comment on gear though without knowing where/what kind of temps. you're talking about.


pmyche


Jan 31, 2008, 11:13 AM
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doktor_g


Feb 4, 2008, 5:44 AM
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Re: [pmyche] Gear for winter walls [In reply to]
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Thanks both of you. Sadly my alpine resume looks more impressive than it is. Numerous failures and epics. My climbing has gone to shit and my sleek silouette has become more portly. Nevertheless, it's on for 09. The likelyhood of me going free is low, but I do remember ascending verglass covered slabs in crampons. I thought I broke my knee caps I kept sliding around so much. I'll keep that in mind. I guess I'd chosen to forget that experience

I'll keep figuring on the footwear. Looks like I may take multiple pairs. Booties/Mucklucks, Mountain Boots and galoshes.

Skinner, yes it's Baffin.

Thanks again fellers, if you come up with some ideas please re-post or PM.

Grover


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