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joeforte
May 1, 2007, 11:59 AM
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Hey, I was wondering what bolts have been used successfully at Maple Canyon, or in similar conglomerate. What length/type is prefered? Any special considerations for this type of rock?
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billcoe_
Jan 28, 2008, 11:20 PM
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Anyone?
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fluxus
Feb 7, 2008, 8:19 PM
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I've bolted 2 lines in Maple and the bolts I used were standard 3/8 Hilti or Rawl expansion bolts. The only difference was that I tended to use longer bolts there, keeping different sizes with me up to 5 inches.
I also think double expansion bolts are a good idea in rock like that.
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chossmonkey
Feb 7, 2008, 8:41 PM
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I'm not sure about Maple, but in general it depends on what the cobbles and the matrix are made of and where you are sinking your bolts into the cliff.
If you are bolting into the matrix and it is sandstone it might be a good idea to use 1/2" bolts. If into big, well cemented in cobbles of granite or quartzite, 3/8" would be fine.
Be cautious of drilling through harder rock into pockets and softer rock beneth the surface, especially if using stud bolts as they will fail if the clip is in either. 5-Peice/Power Bolts might not tighten in the same. Double expansion bolts like Flexus mentioned would help avoid the problem. As would using the right length of bolt to pass the soft spot or not go that deep.
Long glue-ins would likely be the best option regardless of what mechanical bolts others have used elsewhere.
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mtengaio
Feb 9, 2008, 12:40 AM
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From what I can tell stud bolts have been primarily used, but I've seen old holes from 5-piece too though.
Some people have done a poor job of cleaning their bolt lines up after moving their bolts too. Leaving the studs sticking out or just plainly trying to hammer them flat (with poor results) gets to be a common sight at Maple.
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billcoe_
Mar 5, 2008, 5:29 AM
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Nice call Chossmonkey.
BTW: Got this via email, thought it would be nice to share. I think that if you can afford it at all, stainless is the way to go.
“Hi Bill,
.... About bolts, I and several others that have put routes up in Maple used 4 inch long, carbon steel 3/8 Hilti qwik stud bolts. Then for anchors I personally used the 5 inch long stainless steel qwick stud bolts. (but that's because I just bolt the chain straight to the wall, no hanger.) The stud bolts have been fine but the nuts on some have come loose on a few routes, requiring just a little tightening here and there. The matrix between the cobbles in Maple is sandstone, but a pretty dense sandstone. I am a commercial brick mason and have done a lot of drilling in 2000 psi concrete and I would say that drilling in the sandstone at Maple was comparable, if not a little bit harder. Drilling in the cobbles was near impossible and you could always tell when you hit one and most of the time it would destroy your bit just to finish a hole. Now drilling in wind gate sandstone, which I've done, is real easy and the bit will cut through that like it's butter. For that I use 5 piece, 1/2 inch rawl sleeve bolts because the stud bolt sleeve doesn't seem to seat as well.
Never used any epoxy on any bolts in Maple. We have replaced bolts in American Fork Canyon with the Petzl glue ins, but only because the limestone seeps water and the bolts we were replacing had some obvious corrosion damage."
__________________________________________________
End of mail
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billcoe_
Mar 5, 2008, 5:33 AM
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Pretty wild rock at the place. From Mountain project:
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hyhuu
Mar 5, 2008, 9:21 PM
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Registered: Jul 25, 2001
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Since beauty is in the eye of the "beer" holder, I think it's kinda ugly. It looks like some construction project went bad. How would you know if a hold is glued in from a natural one? :)
billcoe_ wrote: Pretty wild rock at the place. From Mountain project:[image]http://www.mountainproject.com/images/78/28/106107828_medium_fbe567.jpg[/image] [image]http://www.mountainproject.com/images/94/45/106009445_large_fd2804.jpg[/image] |
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