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winkwinklambonini
Feb 8, 2008, 10:08 PM
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I'm curious how other people rack up. This is because I recently changed my system, and it works really well.
I tied gear loops on my shoulder sling with spectra chord and semi-rigid tubing(vise grips work to maintain good tension so the tubing ends up nice and tight), because I tied them, they are adjustable. I also added one long one on the left side. Draws are on the left, gear on the right starting with stoppers and small cams which end up in the middle of my chest(wicked accessable). Lockers, Chordelette, and any doubles I have on my harness. Unlike racking on a harness, now I can reach any piece with either hand easily.
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coastal_climber
Feb 8, 2008, 10:22 PM
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For trad I have QD's and slings on my right side. Cams, stoppers on my left on a gear sling. For aid, shoulder harness with gear on the left, QD's on the right.
>Cam
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builttospill
Feb 8, 2008, 11:27 PM
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I generally rack slings/quickdraws on my harness and gear on a shoulder sling. If it's a light rack I put everything on a shoulder sling.
Recently when ice climbing I've started racking a single screw on each side of my harness (with a sling on each side), and the rest of the screws and slings on a shoulder harness. This way regardless of the position I'm in and regardless of which hand is placing gear, I can easily grab a screw and a runner. I may start doing this on rock also, but since the gear is not universal like ice screws, it won't work as well.
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wyoclimb
Feb 9, 2008, 12:51 AM
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QDs and the longer slings & cordellete on my harness, cams shoulder slung on the right nuts on the left
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kmc
Feb 9, 2008, 2:06 AM
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Everything on my harness except maybe a four foot sling doubled and over my shoulder. I climb mostly at the Gunks, and learned early how much of a pain in the ass it is to place gear in an overhang when your gear is racked over your shoulder and it all falls behind you. Tripled slings on both sides, passive on the left, cams on the right.
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clausti
Feb 9, 2008, 2:31 AM
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winkwinklambonini wrote: I'm curious how other people rack up. This is because I recently changed my system, and it works really well.
gear in ascending size toward the back of my harness. i am almost always carrying doubles anyways, so i divide the gear equally on both sides. i find this eliminates the problem of not being able to reach a specific piece when you in a corner or something. I find slings to a)hang too low, cause i'm short, and b) just plain flop around too much.
do you rack your 'biners with the gates facing in to your harness or out? my boyfriend and i are always teasing each other about racking stuff "inside out."
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salamanizer
Feb 9, 2008, 2:32 AM
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Depends on where and what you climb.
If you're climbing overhanging stuff (like previously mentioned at the Gunks) racking with a gear sling sucks. On the other hand, if you're planning on climbing much in Yosemite, racking on your harness is total bullshit. First time you're thrashing around in a squeeze chimney you'll find that out. It's really personal preference though.
Personally, I rack nuts, slings and lockers on my harness while the cams go on a gear sling.
Nothing worse than being in an awkward position above your gear, gripped and not being able to just pull your gear over to where your free hand can reach them.
The biggest problems I see with peoples racks is not in how they rack it, but what they rack. Unbelievable!!!
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clausti
Feb 9, 2008, 2:36 AM
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salamanizer wrote: Depends on where and what you climb. If you're climbing overhanging stuff (like previously mentioned at the Gunks) racking with a gear sling sucks. On the other hand, if you're planning on climbing much in Yosemite, racking on your harness is total bullshit. First time you're thrashing around in a squeeze chimney you'll find that out. It's really personal preference though. Personally, I rack nuts, slings and lockers on my harness while the cams go on a gear sling. Nothing worse than being in an awkward position above your gear, gripped and not being able to just pull your gear over to where your free hand can reach them. The biggest problems I see with peoples racks is not in how they rack it, but what they rack. Unbelievable!!!
haha, just avoid squeeze chimenys, there is your problem! i forgot to say that i always rack nuts at the front on my right side if i'm climbing granite or NRG sandstone, and at the back if i dont think i'll use them much. slings always go in the back, as i dont need to see them.
what do you mean, what they rack? what stuff do people rack that you find unbelievable?
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JohnCook
Feb 9, 2008, 3:06 AM
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The quantity of gear is sometimes amazing. Recently on Stanage (Derbyshire UK) on a 50ft route was some guy with about 30 cams. I didn't coment, 'cause a bloke who can climb while carrying that much gear must be extremely strong. His were all on his harness, in no particular order.
I rack up on my harness on alternating sides, small to front getting bigger as they go back, ie smallest front left, next front right etc etc. Tapes loosely knotted, clipped on back of harness, QD's on trad near back, on sport mostly on side dictated by position of bolts on route.
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salamanizer
Feb 9, 2008, 3:11 AM
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clausti wrote: what do you mean, what they rack? what stuff do people rack that you find unbelievable?
Are you kidding?
I've seen 3 cordelettes???
Backpacks complete with water, jacket, and shoes on single pitch routes.
Up to 8 lockers.
Piles of extra biners.
Racks fit for the biggest of big walls complete with triples of everything.
Miles of cordage and slings to the point you could swear if they tied it all end to end they could bail off the route without touching their rope.
Some dude had a #6 on Haystack (Pro to 2").
A bong (of the piton variety) up serinity crack in Yosemite.
I don't know, some people just carry some stupid useless crap and way too much of it.... but, whatever.
I bet you could start a 50 page thread about useless crap people have seen carried up routes.
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clausti
Feb 9, 2008, 3:16 AM
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salamanizer wrote: clausti wrote: what do you mean, what they rack? what stuff do people rack that you find unbelievable? Are you kidding?... ...I don't know, some people just carry some stupid useless crap and way too much of it.... but, whatever. I bet you could start a 50 page thread about useless crap people have seen carried up routes.
meh, i just wondered if you'd seen anything particularly egregious. like a puppy. i rapped in with my cat in my backpack once.
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jjanowia
Feb 9, 2008, 3:34 AM
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I'm sure there is a bit of hyperbole in your response, but having a little extra cord or a 2nd cordelette is pretty handy if you want to escape a belay or be prepared for a leader rescue scenario. Just sayin'. It's useless 'till it is necessary, or substantially eases what could be a tough situation. |
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stymingersfink
Feb 9, 2008, 3:40 AM
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builttospill wrote: regardless of which hand is placing gear, I can easily grab a screw and a runner. 
clausti wrote: gear in ascending size toward the back of my harness. i am almost always carrying doubles anyways, so i divide the gear equally on both sides. i find this eliminates the problem of not being able to reach a specific piece when you in a corner or something. I find slings to a)hang too low, cause i'm short, and b) just plain flop around too much. do you rack your 'biners with the gates facing in to your harness or out? my boyfriend and i are always teasing each other about racking stuff "inside out."
When rock climbing the biners are clipped gate in, but while ice climbing biners are clipped gate out. Doing so keeps them less likely to capture any other piece of crap swinging around by waist while on the rock, and easier to unclip when climbing with my ice gloves on. Screws are split between ice clippers on either side of my waist, while draws are divided between the fore loops on my ice harness and my double length slings (tripled+twisted) are relegated to the aft loops. thanks, clausti! the hash f8 i remembered, but the rest of it was escaping me... ;)
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clausti
Feb 9, 2008, 4:12 AM
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stymingersfink wrote: When rock climbing the biners are clipped gate in, but while ice climbing biners are clipped gate out. Doing so keeps them less likely to capture any other piece of crap swinging around by waist while on the rock, and easier to unclip when climbing with my ice gloves on. Screws are split between ice clippers on either side of my waist, while draws are divided between the fore loops on my ice harness and my double length slings (tripled+twisted) are relegated to the aft loops.
ah, i've never been ice climbing, so i havent had to mess with the potential tangle that would cause. do you find that you can get slings sufficiently tight so they don't flop around when you are climbing? mine always end up in front of me, pulling me off balance.
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stymingersfink
Feb 9, 2008, 4:22 AM
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clausti wrote: stymingersfink wrote: When rock climbing the biners are clipped gate in, but while ice climbing biners are clipped gate out. Doing so keeps them less likely to capture any other piece of crap swinging around by waist while on the rock, and easier to unclip when climbing with my ice gloves on. Screws are split between ice clippers on either side of my waist, while draws are divided between the fore loops on my ice harness and my double length slings (tripled+twisted) are relegated to the aft loops. ah, i've never been ice climbing, so i havent had to mess with the potential tangle that would cause. do you find that you can get slings sufficiently tight so they don't flop around when you are climbing? mine always end up in front of me, pulling me off balance.
you mean the double-length slings? well, they're kind of a bitch to deal with on the sharp end when it comes to rock routes, but for ice there's a different standard in placing gear, in that you're already yarding on a piece but they don't call it French Free! ;)
anyway, for double-length slings, I triple them up as I would a standard length draw, grasp each end biner in either hand, then twist the whole shebang counter one another. when it comes up pretty tight, i'll clip the rope-end biner to the pro-end biner and pull the bottom of the sling kind of tight and straight, making a straight little bundle that hangs no lower than my QD's and resembles in appearance a short section of hawser-laid rope.
i could probably post up a series of pics if I needed to...
(This post was edited by stymingersfink on Feb 9, 2008, 4:36 AM)
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dudemanbu
Feb 9, 2008, 4:32 AM
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I rack on my harness because it looks cooler.
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clausti
Feb 9, 2008, 4:39 AM
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stymingersfink wrote: clausti wrote: stymingersfink wrote: When rock climbing the biners are clipped gate in, but while ice climbing biners are clipped gate out. Doing so keeps them less likely to capture any other piece of crap swinging around by waist while on the rock, and easier to unclip when climbing with my ice gloves on. Screws are split between ice clippers on either side of my waist, while draws are divided between the fore loops on my ice harness and my double length slings (tripled+twisted) are relegated to the aft loops. ah, i've never been ice climbing, so i havent had to mess with the potential tangle that would cause. do you find that you can get slings sufficiently tight so they don't flop around when you are climbing? mine always end up in front of me, pulling me off balance. you mean the double-length slings? well, they're kind of a bitch to deal with on the sharp end when it comes to rock routes, but for ice there's a different standard in placing gear, in that you're already yarding on a piece but they don't call it French Free! ;) anyway, for double-length slings, I triple them up as I would a standard length draw, grasp each end biner in either hand, then twist the whole shebang counter one another. when it comes up pretty tight, i'll clip the rope-end biner to the pro-end biner and pull the bottom of the sling kind of tight and straight, making a straight little bundle that hangs no lower than my QD's and resembles in appearance a short section of hawser-laid rope. i could probably post up a series of pics if I needed to...
for double length slings, i always just make an extendable out of them, whether or not i intend to extend, as it were. then they're usable in whatever form.haha, you knew it was there, sty, and you still got pwned!
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clausti
Feb 9, 2008, 4:41 AM
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dudemanbu wrote: I rack on my harness because it looks cooler.
psh, i dunno. i think slings LOOK cooler, they're just too PITA to use.
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dudemanbu
Feb 9, 2008, 4:49 AM
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clausti wrote: dudemanbu wrote: I rack on my harness because it looks cooler. psh, i dunno. i think slings LOOK cooler, they're just too PITA to use.
no way man. having all that gear at waist level is like having two extra huge swinging dicks.
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clausti
Feb 9, 2008, 4:53 AM
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dudemanbu wrote: clausti wrote: dudemanbu wrote: I rack on my harness because it looks cooler. psh, i dunno. i think slings LOOK cooler, they're just too PITA to use. no way man. having all that gear at waist level is like having two extra huge swinging dicks.
whatever, I don't have a dick to start with, i certainly don't want two "more" swinging!
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dudemanbu
Feb 9, 2008, 5:27 AM
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wow, my first post edited not by choice.. and i didn't even swear.
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clausti
Feb 9, 2008, 5:36 AM
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dudemanbu wrote: wow, my first post edited not by choice.. and i didn't even swear.
dude, what was that? will they really edit your post for swearing?
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climbingaggie03
Feb 9, 2008, 7:59 AM
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I rack up one piece at a time, unless it's nuts, then it's one carabiner at a time.
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charley
Feb 9, 2008, 2:18 PM
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I carry too much stuff, but I don't know or haven't figured out what to leave. I do leave some big stuff sometimes. I don't know whats up there so I take it all. I have two water bottles, shoes, 6 inch square emergency bag, nut tool, bail biner, belay device, long and short cordalette, 4 lockers, prussics, webbing and rap ring, cpl extra biners, gloves, and maybe more on my harness. My gear goes on a double sling that goes on like a shirt. It has a sling on each side. I have nuts on the front of each side small in front, right side has the cams small to big, the left has hexes on two biners small to big, then passive tri-cams, then on each side I have 6-24 inch draws/slings tripled/alpine, then two 12 inch slingsdoubled, and one 48 inch runner daisy chained. There is also a screamer and a cpl other things. It is heavy enough that I won't allow any thing else. I prolly have four pieces to fit any crack from pinky to 4 inch fist. This is for multi pitch trad.
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