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brs1986
Feb 11, 2008, 4:12 AM
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hey can anyone give me some directions to the wilton climbing area in central mo. having a hard time finding it. thanks
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atlnq9
Feb 11, 2008, 5:22 AM
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From Wilton, north on road along railroad tracks until road turns away. Park here. Hike across tracks up to rocks. Thirty minutes from Columbia.
Private - Closed - Owner will tow cars
this is the best site for MO areas, a little out of date but still contains most any area, also some people to contact about access
http://camm.mu.org/cwiki.py?page=Home
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brs1986
Feb 12, 2008, 4:22 AM
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so do many people go there now that the owner has made it privet and no trespassing crap? or am i going to get arrested for climbing there?
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atlnq9
Feb 12, 2008, 4:43 PM
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If you are caught you will probably just get chased away with a shotgun, I have never climbed there so wouldn't know if people still climb there or not. try contacting the MU climbing club, I am down in Rolla.
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brs1986
Feb 12, 2008, 8:54 PM
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ah. well. that doesnt sound pleasing at all does it. its a shame all the pictures and descriptions for the routes look pretty good. yeah ill have to try and contact them to see what they say. im from jeff city but go to school in springfield. ah its to icy and cold to climb anywhere around here anyways.
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EvilMonkey
Mar 27, 2008, 1:29 AM
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you could always try hitting it up without headlamps during a full moon. less likely to get caught that way.
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climbtraditional
Apr 14, 2008, 11:37 PM
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I have climbed at Wilton over a dozen times, and have NEVER had a problem. I'm not sure why people who haven't climbed there are commenting about the accessiblity. Park at the far end of the bluff when the road turns away. It will look like you are biking the Katie Trial. There are many good routes here, primarily located on the far left side--Streaker is a 5 star 5.12 route. Lamentations is a sandbag at 5.9, with the cruz move being a 5.10. Jumpshot and Space shot, both at mid 5.11 are good too. Traverse of my dreams in an excellent route as well. The trad isn't as good. There are several other great routes in the area. Over the years, I haven't seen too many other climbers in the area. You need to be in pretty good shape to climb here.
(This post was edited by climbtraditional on Apr 15, 2008, 11:07 AM)
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atlnq9
Apr 15, 2008, 6:21 AM
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all i did was relay the wishes of the land owner from my sources, also the katy trail state park has banned climbing. i am a firm believer of obeying land owner wishes, don't give us a bad name, maybe somebody could contact the owner and state park, new data access regulations maybe?
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climbtraditional
Apr 15, 2008, 11:06 AM
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your source says the owner's going to chase us w/ shotguns? Ok, but my source, who was actually put up several of the climbs on the bluff, says the owner doesn't even live on the property. I will grant that it is on private property.
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atlnq9
Apr 15, 2008, 2:48 PM
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No, that was sort of a joke, but I have heard of it happening at other places.
A couple Q's, are there no trespassing signs or purple fence posts? and you say you have to park so it looks like you are biking the katy trail, is this just to fool park rangers because I have heard of them running people off of other areas of the katy trail even though the cliffs aren't on their property?
I f this area really is open then thanks for the input!
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RightSleeve
Apr 17, 2008, 5:58 AM
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I've climbed at wilton before. I'm rather new to climbing and I've experienced very mixed messages about climbing around the trail. Andromeda and Wilton are both usually either closed or open depending on which climbers you are talking with. Even then it becomes a closed/open scenario based on where you park. Is there solid information on this or is it always word-of-mouth?
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freakystyley
Apr 30, 2008, 2:48 AM
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all river areas in bocomo are on private land and are always technically closed - by climbing there you are tresspassing.
that said,
river access is always word of mouth because new people park wrong, change clothes along the road, cause a scene, bring a big group of noobs, get hurt, and draw undue attention to the sensitive areas. stick around long enough and you will see for yourself. River access is a very sensitive topic among locals for various reasons.
(This post was edited by freakystyley on Apr 30, 2008, 2:55 AM)
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RightSleeve
Apr 30, 2008, 5:38 PM
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That's what I was assuming was the story about being open or closed. So what is the best method for getting to these locations? Using Andromeda for an example, do you park at the top and risk irritating the landowner or ride in by bike and risk getting a ticket for leaving the trail?
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freakystyley
Apr 30, 2008, 5:40 PM
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one more thing, a perfect example of my reply was the above post about being there a dozen times and where to park...DO NOT park where the road turns away from the bluff. this will block either the road or the farmers field entrance - most regulars know this. there is not enough shoulder to park in this area. Park where country club road meets the river road, it is between the two bluffs and where a small cattle farm sits as well as a katy trail crossing. park along the shoulder here - and hide your copy of climbing mag under the seat.
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freakystyley
Apr 30, 2008, 5:47 PM
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getting a ticket for leaving the trail? thats as good as getting run out of wilton with a shotgun - in 15 years I have never witnessed either.
NEVER park on top of andromeada. drive to huntsdale and bike in. Sheriff will orange sticker/ticket or tow your car atop andromeada as instructed by the owner.
Think of it this way, you and a buddy park on top for a quick few runs...99% chance of being no big deal. then all your buddies show up with different people and then we have 4 cars full of obviously tresspassing climbers. Bike in - I appreciate you asking.
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RightSleeve
Apr 30, 2008, 7:14 PM
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Yeah the ticket thing for leaving the trail is the main line of reasoning I've heard as to why people park at the top of andromeda. I've only been there once and I parked at Rochport and rode in.
Parking at Wilton is described in Marcus Floyd's book the same way you described.
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