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.sam.
Feb 19, 2008, 3:19 AM
Post #1 of 9
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Registered: Feb 19, 2008
Posts: 21
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hey guys, headed to aconcagua in january and wondering if the gear clothing me and my partner are planing to bring will be adiquit, here is the list
for me, i get cold very easy, i swear im a lizard or something...
mountain hardwear absolute zero parka, arcteryx alpha lt gortex jaket, montbell down ul parka, patagonia r1 hoodie, arcteryx wool base layer, black diamond liner gloves, black diamond samuri gloves, black diamond mercury mitt, arcteryx gamma mx softshell pant, cloudveil koven shell pants, patagonia micropuff pants, patagonia r1 base layer pants, smartwool mountineering socks, koflach vertical boots with intuition denali liners, mountain hardwear absolute zero overboots, vbl socks, and a warm hat/ balklova.
my friend, who is always quite warm
perrty warm columbia down parka, older patagonia softshell, patagonia r4 jaket, patagonia r1 pullover, capeline base layers, older patagonia fleece lined hardshell pants, capiline base layers, smartwool mountineering socks, koflach degree boots, vbl socks, and a warm hat and such he has some type of warm mittins but i forget
as far as sleeping i have a mountain hardwear -40 bag witch im sure is overkill but my friend just has a marmot 0 bag, might this work?
any help or recomendations would be great! happy climbing
cheers
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yves
Feb 21, 2008, 1:12 PM
Post #2 of 9
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Registered: Nov 10, 2004
Posts: 125
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Could you explain : your post is registered in Feb and you are saying that you are going in Jan ?
Did I miss something ?
Specify what route you want to doIn reply to: and I will answer right away : normal route , Polish , South Face ? Y.
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guanoboy
Feb 21, 2008, 2:07 PM
Post #3 of 9
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Registered: Jan 2, 2004
Posts: 244
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You have plenty of clothing. I would recommend that it is not so much the gear as staying hydrated, taking aspirin, and going slow.
Your body makes more red blood cells (oxygen carriers) at elevation and this thickens your blood making it harder to pump around your body. If you are dehydrated, it is even harder to pump that thick blood. Water and aspirin thin the blood making it easier to stay warm. This is more important than your clothing.
have fun
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csproul
Feb 21, 2008, 3:56 PM
Post #4 of 9
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Registered: Jun 4, 2004
Posts: 1769
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honestly, your list sounds like overkill in some areas to me...but you know your sensitivity to cold better than I do!
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mtselman
Feb 21, 2008, 7:05 PM
Post #5 of 9
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Registered: Jan 9, 2002
Posts: 134
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A good idea would be to take ski goggles in addition to sunglasses. It may be VERY windy up there and the goggles will help.
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dreamy
Feb 21, 2008, 7:10 PM
Post #6 of 9
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Registered: Oct 15, 2006
Posts: 14
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Your partner, OK. But it looks as if you’re taking a whole store to Aco
This November I managed with (up) FF Icefall jacket, Wild things Alpinist jacket (both eVent), Pata R2, Hoddy, Capile 2, (down) Pata Micropuff, Master Guide, R1, Capile 2; Smartwool socks, Pata liners and Nupse boot; Arva liners, Marmot windstopper gloves, BD Mercury Mitts. Stayed toasty for three days at Berlin (-20C at night inside the refuge) waiting for good weather (I had no hurry), and only dressed heavily during the first hours of the summit day. You haven’t specified your route, but most probably if you are faster than me you’ll be staying at Nido waiting for good climate. From there, if its get to rough you can downclimb to Plaza de Mulas in a couple of hours.
Regarding the sleeping bag, if it gets to cold, your friend could always use his parka.
Take very seriously guanoboy’s advice, and go light and fast.
Enyoy.
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.sam.
Feb 22, 2008, 3:52 AM
Post #7 of 9
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Registered: Feb 19, 2008
Posts: 21
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hey thanks guys, sorry i didnt specify the route, were looking at the polish glacier route most likely, if anyone has some imput on the south face that would be great. im having some trouble getting info on that aspect. most of my climbing is lower elevation more technical climbing (brenva spur montblac, north face of the gand jorasse, an odd combo of the standard route and the northface of the matterhorn) i would love to climb something kinda technical on aconcagua but dont know how id react to the elevation or the difficulty of the routes... any advise?? thanks again for the responces
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dreamy
Feb 22, 2008, 5:28 AM
Post #8 of 9
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Registered: Oct 15, 2006
Posts: 14
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For what you say the south wall might be a little to “tech” for you. If you are thinking in the polish glacier route (more windy, snowy, cold and lonely than the Normal), why not try the polish “Directa” for your summit?. You’ll find info at Summit post and elsewhere.
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yves
Mar 28, 2008, 5:17 PM
Post #9 of 9
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Registered: Nov 10, 2004
Posts: 125
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Sam,
Sorry, but is seems my answer disappeared from the forum between yesterday and this morning.
To address your question about "what climb", I feel that if you [as leader and not second] have done Brenva Spur to MtBlc, you have done more difficult and more committed that the Polish glacier; if you have done Grandes Jorasses by Nth face (Cassin), you have done (rock-wise) more difficult than some Aconcagua South Face routes.
However, apart from the altitude (6960m), the wind can be very strong (up to 150 km/h) and at this altitude it has serious consequences.
Moreover, the classic French route on the South Face is a wall which begins at 4250 m and goes up to the summit ridge at 6900 + m; minimum three days, with tent, rock and ice gear and with difficulties of up to 6a (5.10a) at 5000 m and WI 3+/4 at 6000m. You would need the whole mountain equipement and a very strong partner. It is another dimension and in case of accident you are on your own; BTW after 5000 and the rock towers it would be very difficult. Any route on the South face needs serious mountain/expedition experience.
Polish glacier is a nice route which can be taken by the normal route through a long walk/traverse from Nido de Condores (camp 1 at 5200m).
Hope that helps, Yves.
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