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jhump
Feb 26, 2008, 5:53 PM
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I am aiming to do the NW Face of Half Dome this summer with my girlfriend in a day. I have climbed the route previously with bivy and hauling. I found the climbing pretty straight forward and used minimal aid. I did bring way too much aid gear.
My QUESTION: What is a minimal aid setup for this mission? No rack advice, just aiders, daisy/fifi recommendations. I will free everything 5.10+ and under and only need to aid the few bolt ladders and a few other 5.11+ and up cruxes. I have a standard fifi, 2 adjustable daisies, 2 alpine aiders, 2 light metolius aiders. Any ideas?
Thanks,
Jeremy
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jhump
Feb 26, 2008, 6:08 PM
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I would also like to know how some use quick draws/biners and other gear readily available to pass aid points quickly, instaed of dedicated aid gear.
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glahhg
Feb 26, 2008, 6:26 PM
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you have dedicated aid quickdraws?
I don't think you need any different gear, just go faster and don't haul... that should do it....
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krusher4
Feb 26, 2008, 7:38 PM
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Pulling on gear seems to be a standard trick for passing short aid points. try to get on the wall when there isn't too much of a crowd and make sure your fit enough to free climb that many hard pitches, you sound like you got it.
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sspssp
Feb 26, 2008, 7:53 PM
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I took one pair of alpine aiders and 2 adjustable daisies (for the zigzags) and I was happy with that. My partner jugged the zigzags on a ropeman and a cinch. (We free climbed/yarded everything else.) I thought this was a reasonable comprise between efficiency and weight. Whatever you plan on doing, practice it first.
Maybe I missed out, but I don't really know what "tricks" using standard gear to pass "aid spots" you might be thinking of.
Make sure your GF knows how to handle the pendulums. The pendi after the first bolt ladder you can save time if you don't clip the last few bolts. This lets your partner swing across without going to the top.
(This post was edited by sspssp on Feb 26, 2008, 7:58 PM)
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jhump
Feb 26, 2008, 7:57 PM
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Dedicated aid quickdraws? I don't know where you got that. I am asking if some use a quick draw, for instance, insteadd of a daisy, for aiding.
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pmyche
Feb 26, 2008, 10:14 PM
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jhump
Feb 26, 2008, 10:55 PM
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Good stuff, guys. Thanks. Some more thoughts...
I was pretty green when I did this thing last time in 2001- at least to the aiding/hauling game. I remember the aid being straight forward, but I know I had too much stuff which bogged me down.
I was thinking of leaving the daisies behind, just climbing the aiders and clipping into a draw to place the next piece. I could also go with 2 aiders, no daisy and a fifi- clipping the fifi into the piece to place the next. I have heard of others doing this. I remember top stepping not being critical. No daisies keep the aiders free and untangled (an issue last time). It also makes them possible to drop.
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highlander
Feb 28, 2008, 2:13 AM
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I try to use my aiders as little as possible, pull on gear as much as possible, and use your sticky rubber. Sometime I use just one aider with one regular daisy with a fifi. I like the metolius pocket aiders for this type of climbing because they are really light weight and fold up into their own little pocket until you need them. Much of the harder sections contained fixed gear, clip the fixed gear for pro and back clean your gear that you think you may need higher to keep you from having to bring as much gear, just bring a free climbing size rack.The bigger the rack the slower you will move and the more difficult the free climbing will feel. Light and fast!
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