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biscuits
Feb 27, 2008, 10:19 PM
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I was reading long & leubens book "advanced rock climbing" and they state how to set up for lowering off rings at the top of a sport climb. I always thought that it would put excessive wear on the rings and i was tought to rappel. Can anyone tell me if its normal to lower or frowned upon. Thanks.
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shoo
Feb 27, 2008, 10:23 PM
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Generally frowned upon, but commonly done anyway.
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ja1484
Feb 27, 2008, 10:33 PM
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shoo wrote: Generally frowned upon, but commonly done anyway. ^ Pretty much. I have to wonder if it's really a problem for stainless steel rings. I've noticed well-aged stainless rap-rings at crags where they are no doubt being lowered on daily in season, and they seem to show almost no wear. I recognize that aluminum rings can easily be killed with a season of lowering off at any moderately traveled crag, but I have a hard time finding an excuse for any fixed hardware made of aluminum (excluding fixed trad pro, for the picky).
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hanginaround
Feb 27, 2008, 10:34 PM
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It's Just bad form! Just rap off, it's more fun anyway.
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pylonhead
Feb 27, 2008, 10:51 PM
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JT512? Where are you, man? We're rehashing the lowering vs. repelling thing. Again.
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caughtinside
Feb 27, 2008, 11:00 PM
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This troll never fails to catch the tradsters.
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anykineclimb
Mar 13, 2008, 12:57 AM
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pylonhead wrote: JT512? Where are you, man? We're rehashing the lowering vs. repelling thing. Again. repelling trolls?
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pylonhead
Mar 13, 2008, 1:05 AM
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anykineclimb wrote: pylonhead wrote: JT512? Where are you, man? We're rehashing the lowering vs. repelling thing. Again. repelling trolls? Blech. Rappelling. At least I didn't go the "raping" route. You really didn't have anything better to do than resurrect a two week old thread to correct my spelling?
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climbsomething
Mar 13, 2008, 1:10 AM
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anykineclimb wrote: pylonhead wrote: JT512? Where are you, man? We're rehashing the lowering vs. repelling thing. Again. repelling trolls? *giggle
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timd
Mar 13, 2008, 10:40 AM
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This is definately a question for the "Expert" Village
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wyoclimb
Mar 14, 2008, 8:58 PM
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another reason not to lower off rap rings watch your rope spin every 18 inches or so as you lower it with weight on it. Can't be good for easy rope work. Or am I the one twirling.
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irregularpanda
Mar 14, 2008, 10:30 PM
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hanginaround wrote: It's Just bad form! Just rap off, it's more fun anyway. It is bad form, and accelerates the gear's senescence. An interesting side note that I learned recently, when rings, (or anything for that matter) have been fixed to cordage (possibly old cordage), lowering off could possibly heat up the rings enough to burn through the cordage! http://www.theuiaa.org/upload_area/files/1/Use_of_slings_when_lowering_off_and_abseiling.pdf sorry, I don't yet know how to make the clicky.
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anykineclimb
Mar 14, 2008, 10:43 PM
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pylonhead wrote: anykineclimb wrote: pylonhead wrote: JT512? Where are you, man? We're rehashing the lowering vs. repelling thing. Again. repelling trolls? Blech. Rappelling. At least I didn't go the "raping" route. You really didn't have anything better to do than resurrect a two week old thread to correct my spelling? well, it is rc.com We should all have something better to do
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winkwinklambonini
Mar 15, 2008, 1:15 PM
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j_ung wrote: caughtinside wrote: This troll never fails to catch the tradsters. I'm more a traddy than anything else, and I almost always lower from rings. We're talking about these, right? [image]http://www.fixeusa.com/images/products/anchors/032-040_300x373.gif[/image] It's perfectly fine to lower from these. Ropes aren't channeled into the same place on the ring every time and, even if they do wear out, they're easy as Hell to replace. I hadn't thought about the even wear aspect of those anchors. Still it's easy to just throw a couple of draw on any anchors and let the follower deal. Cuts wear in half. <---bad choice of words
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j_ung
Mar 17, 2008, 2:52 PM
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winkwinklambonini wrote: j_ung wrote: caughtinside wrote: This troll never fails to catch the tradsters. I'm more a traddy than anything else, and I almost always lower from rings. We're talking about these, right? [image]http://www.fixeusa.com/images/products/anchors/032-040_300x373.gif[/image] It's perfectly fine to lower from these. Ropes aren't channeled into the same place on the ring every time and, even if they do wear out, they're easy as Hell to replace. I hadn't thought about the even wear aspect of those anchors. Still it's easy to just throw a couple of draw on any anchors and let the follower deal. Cuts wear in half. <---bad choice of words Agreed. I'm guessing here, but I think it's a reasonable guess... TRing through these is a different story. The constant weight of at least a rope keeps the rings oriented the same way throughout the TR session. Whereas using draws to TR and lowering the last climber from the rings virtually eliminates wear and tear (relative to, say, standard cold shuts). I haven't developed anything in a couple years, but when I did (and if I do again), I preferred a standard bolt hanger, with a steel quick link under that and a stainless ring under that. It's tough to imagine an anchor better suited to modern casual cragging.
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dta95b7r
Mar 17, 2008, 3:38 PM
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In a perfect world people would stop getting lowered off links and rings when rappelling is an easy option. I encountered a few anchors that looked damn near scary (bringing replacements next time I visit) in red river gorge. But I don't see the trend ending.
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corson
Mar 18, 2008, 1:07 PM
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Isn,t this the sport climbing forum? Rapping off of rings on a sport climb? WTF. Maybe if it's 6 pitches. How about clipping in a couple draws then lowering or TRing or what the F ever else you want to do. DONE AND DONE. Clean draws later or donate to the cause....your choice.
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markc
Mar 18, 2008, 1:26 PM
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corson wrote: Isn,t this the sport climbing forum? Rapping off of rings on a sport climb? WTF. Maybe if it's 6 pitches. How about clipping in a couple draws then lowering or TRing or what the F ever else you want to do. DONE AND DONE. Clean draws later or donate to the cause....your choice. "Clean draws later or donate to the cause..." What? Sport climbing would soon outstrip the cost of traditional climbing if I made a habit of leaving draws at the top. I don't think anyone is suggesting that each member of the party is directly lowering off the fixed protection. I've read this as the way the last party member gets off the route when they've cleaned their own gear. Depending upon the nature of the route, I'm about as likely to rappel as to lower. The extra time spent isn't significant, and my partner can use that time to grab a drink, swap shoes, etc. That said, it's pretty common for the last member of the party to be lowered. We should all speak up if we see someone toproping or every member of a party lowering from fixed anchors.
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dbrayack
Mar 18, 2008, 1:37 PM
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depends on the climbing area. Each place has its local "ethics" or pretty much general practice.
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corson
Mar 19, 2008, 10:17 AM
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markc wrote: corson wrote: Isn,t this the sport climbing forum? Rapping off of rings on a sport climb? WTF. Maybe if it's 6 pitches. How about clipping in a couple draws then lowering or TRing or what the F ever else you want to do. DONE AND DONE. Clean draws later or donate to the cause....your choice. "Clean draws later or donate to the cause..." What? Sport climbing would soon outstrip the cost of traditional climbing if I made a habit of leaving draws at the top. I don't think anyone is suggesting that each member of the party is directly lowering off the fixed protection. I've read this as the way the last party member gets off the route when they've cleaned their own gear. Depending upon the nature of the route, I'm about as likely to rappel as to lower. The extra time spent isn't significant, and my partner can use that time to grab a drink, swap shoes, etc. That said, it's pretty common for the last member of the party to be lowered. We should all speak up if we see someone toproping or every member of a party lowering from fixed anchors. Whatever dude. My comment was a sardonic allusion to the possibility that a second may not be strong enough to pull a move and or complete a climb in order to re-capture two draws. Since this is the sport climbing forum I assumed there are probably at least some in here who actually climb at their limit.As far as leaving draws.WHATEVER. Two draws? I have 30-40 draws up right now fixed on various routes in Maine and NH. Im sure you don't complain about people leaving draws when your climbing on fixed gear that someone else placed.How do you think that shit got there in the first place? As far as lowering off the anchors? Obviously, with a few limited exceptions, it has and is in my opinion, become the norm to lower off of rings.It is minimal wear and tear and you know what? If the rings do wear out.Ummmmm, after like ten years of daily use. Then someone like me will come along, i nvest their own time end money and drill bits.and drill,etc, and replace them. No big deal.We should all speak up about lowering/tr-ing off anchors? Double whatever. First lowering off anchors is usually, with some exceptions of course, fine. TRing off of anchors is a whole other bin of oranges.If you cant' place draws to tr off of then you are just a total WANKER! In that case, SPEAK OUT by all means. peace C
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stymingersfink
Apr 18, 2008, 1:50 AM
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corson wrote: As far as lowering off the anchors? Obviously, with a few limited exceptions, it has and is in my opinion, become the norm to lower off of rings. If you cant' place draws to tr off of then you are just a total WANKER! In that case, SPEAK OUT by all means. peace C the problem occurs when the lowering sport wanker decides he want to become a traditional leader (traditional being the operative word here) and tries to bring his nasty sport habits across from the dark side. Quite frankly, traditionally (for the majority of routes), one tops out then walks off. After some period of time (and some compromise of "traditional" values), rap anchors are installed. Now people begin eschewing the walk off for the rap off. I'm willing to compromise a bit and overlook this, hell even participate in it (i don't really like hiking farther than necessary in tight climbing shoes either). However, when people try to bring their sport-wanker ethos of lowering through the chains to my "traditional" area (even the trad climbs that are fully bolted, or "slabs" as they are commonly known), I'm gonna get a little pissed. I really don't give a fuck if they state their position as "don't worry, ten years from now when the anchor's worn I'll come up and replace them on my on time and dime". Learn the local ethic before engaging in an activity which goes against it. At the very least, act in a manner which does the least amount of damage, until such a time as you become aware of what the local ethic is.
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corson
Apr 18, 2008, 10:06 AM
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First of all this is a sport climbing forum. If it was general or trad or something other than sport climbing I could see your point.However once again on rc.com someone comes along audaciously takes a comment out of context and sprays on some all-truistic bullshit. Your comment assumes two things.Both of which are incorrect. First of all it assumes that I dont know my local ethics.Hmmm, How could you know this? I have lived all over the country and climbed all over the world, as well as put up a few FA's both trad and sport,and even a few bouldering problems here and there.I know what the local ethics are in more than a few areas and have ALWAYS abided by them.Second your post assumes I dont trad climb.I will admit in the last several years I have forsakin my rack for the convenience of bolts, but I still trad climb and at a reasonable level.Respectable anyway.As far as topping out trad climbs.There are many walk off and many rap off's, it depends on the climb and the area,and even within those parameters it can vary.J-tree rap offs, Yosemite walk offs. Your profile reveals a qoute from MLK so I have to assume you are a decent person.Please try to keep in context. I am no wanker. I have made plenty of sacrifices, and committed to tons of hard work to stay in the game and continue to climb hard. Even with running a busines,taking care of a family,and commuting 3 1/2 hours every weekend back and forth to the crags....After all these years it is still FUN.Good luck to you, happy climbing!
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stymingersfink
Apr 18, 2008, 2:34 PM
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corson wrote: First of all this is a sport climbing forum. If it was general or trad or something other than sport climbing I could see your point.However once again on rc.com someone comes along audaciously takes a comment out of context and sprays on some all-truistic bullshit. Your comment assumes two things.Both of which are incorrect. First of all it assumes that I dont know my local ethics.Hmmm, How could you know this? I have lived all over the country and climbed all over the world, as well as put up a few FA's both trad and sport,and even a few bouldering problems here and there.I know what the local ethics are in more than a few areas and have ALWAYS abided by them.Second your post assumes I dont trad climb.I will admit in the last several years I have forsakin my rack for the convenience of bolts, but I still trad climb and at a reasonable level.Respectable anyway.As far as topping out trad climbs.There are many walk off and many rap off's, it depends on the climb and the area,and even within those parameters it can vary.J-tree rap offs, Yosemite walk offs. Your profile reveals a qoute from MLK so I have to assume you are a decent person.Please try to keep in context. I am no wanker. I have made plenty of sacrifices, and committed to tons of hard work to stay in the game and continue to climb hard. Even with running a busines,taking care of a family,and commuting 3 1/2 hours every weekend back and forth to the crags....After all these years it is still FUN.Good luck to you, happy climbing! I'm not assuming anything, I simply stated the observation of the tendency for n00bs in any activity to get the often incorrect idea that what works for some areas works for every area. What works in some situations is not necessarily appropriate for every situation. Know your options, and the best/worst places to pull that trick outta the bag. or did you not read that in my post?
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