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on_belay_hombre
Jan 8, 2008, 3:58 PM
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Just back from a trip to Red River Gorge. My dose of KY was three days jam-packed with climbing temperatures from the (finger numbing) low/mid 40's to sunny low 70's. 
After not climbing outside in more than 4 months, we climbed nothing less than 10a with me on a strict "no leading" policy as to not re-injure my ankle which was still pretty weak. 
I arrived Friday night after the 8 hour drive from Northern Virginia to meet some friends from RPI who were on a 2 week winter break trip to RRG and T-wall. They were camped at Miguel's which was closed but still usable for camping and a campfire. They were asleep when I got there but I found a spot in a tent nonetheless.
Saturday was cloudy and cold. Not so bad for hiking or even belaying, but the rock just numbed the fingers solid. Even so, we managed 6 or so climbs in the daylight hours at Johnny's Wall and Tectonics before heading out for the warmth of Beer and a campfire.
Sat night one of the guys got pretty sick and that left 3 of us for climbing on Sunday while he slept it off. We headed to the Drive-By Crag...and after getting lost, finding it, then finally climbing as some sun came out for some low 50 degree whether, we got on Make a Wish (10a) and took turns on that for awhile. We then discovered that Breakfast Burrito was the climb on the cover of the guidebook ...as a 10c, it had to be tried. I witnessed a 30+ ft whipper and caught a 20 ft whip, luckily no major injuries amongst the guys: a swollen lip and a tweaked ankle. By the time we got to a point where we could get our gear back, it was approaching dusk. I'm looking forward to trying this climb for real when I'm back in shape.
Monday's weather pulled through and then some. By the time we were set up at The Hideout, it was 65 degrees and getting warmer and we were already climbing in T-shirts. I got in 4 climbs including Boltergeist 10.b, before having to bid my friends goodbye and head back to my car for the 8 hour trek home so I could get to work on Tuesday . I pulled a nice 10d rounding out an awesome trip of about 12 or so 5.10 climbs.
The solo hike out was rewarding with the sun out and knowing I had yet another trip with some great stories, awesome climbing, good company and good laughs.
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jgloporto
Jan 11, 2008, 3:38 PM
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on_belay_hombre wrote: Just back from a trip to Red River Gorge. My dose of KY was three days jam-packed with climbing temperatures from the (finger numbing) low/mid 40's to sunny low 70's. After not climbing outside in more than 4 months, we climbed nothing less than 10a with me on a strict "no leading" policy as to not re-injure my ankle which was still pretty weak. I arrived Friday night after the 8 hour drive from Northern Virginia to meet some friends from RPI who were on a 2 week winter break trip to RRG and T-wall. They were camped at Miguel's which was closed but still usable for camping and a campfire. They were asleep when I got there but I found a spot in a tent nonetheless. Saturday was cloudy and cold. Not so bad for hiking or even belaying, but the rock just numbed the fingers solid. Even so, we managed 6 or so climbs in the daylight hours at Johnny's Wall and Tectonics before heading out for the warmth of Beer and a campfire. Sat night one of the guys got pretty sick and that left 3 of us for climbing on Sunday while he slept it off. We headed to the Drive-By Crag...and after getting lost, finding it, then finally climbing as some sun came out for some low 50 degree whether, we got on Make a Wish (10a) and took turns on that for awhile. We then discovered that Breakfast Burrito was the climb on the cover of the guidebook ...as a 10c, it had to be tried. I witnessed a 30+ ft whipper and caught a 20 ft whip, luckily no major injuries amongst the guys: a swollen lip and a tweaked ankle. By the time we got to a point where we could get our gear back, it was approaching dusk. I'm looking forward to trying this climb for real when I'm back in shape. Monday's weather pulled through and then some. By the time we were set up at The Hideout, it was 65 degrees and getting warmer and we were already climbing in T-shirts . I got in 4 climbs including Boltergeist 10.b, before having to bid my friends goodbye and head back to my car for the 8 hour trek home so I could get to work on Tuesday . I pulled a nice 10d rounding out an awesome trip of about 12 or so 5.10 climbs. The solo hike out was rewarding with the sun out and knowing I had yet another trip with some great stories, awesome climbing, good company and good laughs.
Great TR!
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imnotclever
Jan 11, 2008, 3:57 PM
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Ok, I skimmed the TR, and clicked on your profile cause your avatard looked like a chick and hombre is a guy so I figured I see what's up with that.
I will now take this opportunity to yell NERD! I'm assuming your name is not RISA for a CE, that's just crazy.
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imnotclever
Jan 11, 2008, 4:03 PM
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Ok, so I checked your myspace, and it looks like your name is Risa. Wow, but, I'm still sticking with the Nerd comment. 
/designs soldier pile, sheet pile, soil nail, deep foundations, structures, slopes, etc.
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on_belay_hombre
Jan 11, 2008, 4:08 PM
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~sigh~
Two things:
1) My name *is* actually Risa...and yes...it was a joke in school that RISA 2D is a well known civil program...I'm cursed, oh well  . I also work with a guy who writes reports on foundation systems, and his last name is Caisson...
2) "On belay Hombre" was a joke from a couple years back in college that came to mind while I was picking a screen name...and unfortunately, I didnt realize it made me sound like a dude till after I had created the profile and thus, a bit late to change. So I am cursed yet again. It's meant to be read more like I'm telling the "Hombre" that they are "on belay".
and as a side note: As an engineer, it is automatically assumed that one is a nerd...
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granite_grrl
Jan 11, 2008, 4:23 PM
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Too bad that you were in recovery time on your trip, but not much you can do about that.
I hit up both crags and climbs when I was in the Red last fall. Couldn't wrap me head around that blind move on Breakfast Burrito and I bailed. Kicking myself that I didn't go back for a red point after TRing it clean.
Mmmmmm....dreaming of the Red.....
PS - yes, you are automatically a nerd because you're an engineer
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cfal
Jan 22, 2008, 5:07 AM
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I started reading this and thought "Hey I was just at the Red, what a coincidence" I continued reading and found a striking number of similarities in your story to my trip. Then I saw RPI and I was really confused for second. Then I realized who you were.
I'm a little slow.
Good report. We'll have to meet up again when I'm better and your ankle is good to go.
-Adam
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on_belay_hombre
Jan 22, 2008, 1:34 PM
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Hey Adam! I heard you escaped the sickness!
I'd imagine it would be a bit uncanny to read the TR at first...haha.
It was an awesome trip, and though I was only there for a few days of it, it was enough to remind me that I really dont want to take the 'cliche' path of the desk jockey. Definitely more trips to come...and soon.
Gunks? 
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dreday3000
Jan 22, 2008, 2:58 PM
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Breakfast burrito is a GREAT climb, but its no joke. Aside from the considerable pump, In warmer weather, you have to watch out the wasps nest mid way up the climb.
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xtremst80
Jan 22, 2008, 4:19 PM
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Nice TR! How about some pictures to add to it?
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gobennyjo
Feb 7, 2008, 4:12 AM
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Nice Trip Report
I had a pretty crazy adventure to RRG back in November, too. My friend TJ and I were taking our first trip to Kentucky during Thanksgiving last year. My truck sucks gas and never works so we took his 89 Plymouth van up there from South Carolina. Saturday night we were about 10 miles out from the exit for Slade, and I joked around and said, "Well we are within walking distance; so everything is good." Well about 1 mile from the exit his van threw a rod at the top of a hill. I put it in neutral and we started coasting. We had just enough speed to coast up to the Shell station.
So we sat there just laughing about what had happened. Here we sat in Kentucky with no method of transportation home or anywhere in a place we had never been. So we walked into the Shell and made friends with the lady at the counter. We asked if she knew anyone that was selling a car or think they would want a scrap car. She said she did not know but go talk to Frank, the owner of Country Boy's Tires.
We walked back behind the Shell and started talking to Frank. He was as country as they come but an incredibly nice person. He said he would be interested in buying the van but did not have a car to sell. We sat there and talked to him for hours about Slade, Miguel's, cars, politics and such. We decided we would go through with the deal in the morning. We loaded all our stuff up in the back of his truck and he took us over to Miguel’s.
The next morning we woke up and decided we needed to do what we had come there to do, CLIMB!
We grabbed all our climbing gear, the guide book, and some food for the day. We walked the couple of miles to the Shell, and sold the van to Frank. We met some other climbers at the Shell and got a ride over to Roadside and climbed for the day. We came back and talked over ways to get back over some Ale8's and pizza.
We talked about getting a ride with some friends from Michigan that where headed to South Carolina, but there car was full. Frank had offered to drive us to Lexington and get a greyhound back, but they were really expensive on short notice. We also had a bunch of stuff since we planned on car camping. We walked around the parking lot looking for SC plate and we found a ride to Boone, NC but that would put us back to late. TJ had already gone over is allowed absentees but his professor allowed him to miss the two extra days already. Also there were some of our friends back in South Carolina that had missed the trip cause of tests. Eventually we got a ride back from people from South Carolina, who we went climbing with for a day and graciously tipped in gas and time.
So we still had a few more days to spend there. The next day we walked a little over 7 miles to Left Flank. One of the best parts was crossing through the Nada Tunnel on foot, not what I expected. We climbed for the day and got a ride back with some climbers. After that we walked to Lady Slipper then hitchhiked back. Then we went to Pistol Ridge for our last day of climbing.
It was not the trip I expected but was one of the coolest adventures I have ever had. It was like being a little kid again in the huge playground that covered miles with nothing to do but eat pizza, hang out and climb.
edit: to try to fix paragraph indentions
(This post was edited by gobennyjo on Feb 7, 2008, 4:15 AM)
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uptick
Feb 29, 2008, 5:14 PM
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Can be a drag down there out of season...and in season too when the weather gets so friggin hot (guess that shows I'm getting old and tired of putting up with sleeping in my car bullshit...). Found a nice place down the road that has food, showers, etc. For $14 a night including breakfast, hard to beat. It's a hostel but a nice one:
http://www.truenorthoutfitters.com/
(This post was edited by uptick on Mar 7, 2008, 4:22 AM)
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on_belay_hombre
Mar 19, 2008, 11:42 AM
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Unfortunately I didnt get any pictures! Well...one or two but nothing quality. We were too busy climbing!
Since my ankle is fully healed and I'm leading again, I think i'm due for a trip back...mmm...8 hour drive...
Maybe some footage is in order for the next climbing video.
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dbrayack
Mar 19, 2008, 11:48 AM
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imnotclever wrote: Ok, I skimmed the TR, and clicked on your profile cause your avatard looked like a chick and hombre is a guy so I figured I see what's up with that. I will now take this opportunity to yell NERD! I'm assuming your name is not RISA for a CE, that's just crazy.
I use RISA all the time...
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on_belay_hombre
Mar 19, 2008, 12:05 PM
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I feel so used...
granite_grl - Let us know how it goes, it looked like an awesome lead if not also a completely crazy move...
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dbrayack
Mar 19, 2008, 12:07 PM
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granite_grrl wrote: granite_grrl wrote: I hit up both crags and climbs when I was in the Red last fall. Couldn't wrap me head around that blind move on Breakfast Burrito and I bailed. Kicking myself that I didn't go back for a red point after TRing it clean. I'm leaving for the Red tonight for a 5 day weekend over Easter. Breakfast Burrito is going DOWN!
Hey Granite Girl - I'm not sure if we've met, but I'm a really cool guy - maybe you can set up some stuff on Top Rope for me? I'm leaving thursday night or Friday morning and will be at the Red....
-Dan
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granite_grrl
Mar 19, 2008, 2:51 PM
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dbrayack wrote: granite_grrl wrote: granite_grrl wrote: I hit up both crags and climbs when I was in the Red last fall. Couldn't wrap me head around that blind move on Breakfast Burrito and I bailed. Kicking myself that I didn't go back for a red point after TRing it clean. I'm leaving for the Red tonight for a 5 day weekend over Easter. Breakfast Burrito is going DOWN! Hey Granite Girl - I'm not sure if we've met, but I'm a really cool guy - maybe you can set up some stuff on Top Rope for me? I'm leaving thursday night or Friday morning and will be at the Red.... -Dan
cree pee
I usually only get requests like that via PMs!
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kostik
Mar 19, 2008, 3:25 PM
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I'm going to the Red tomorrow. Will be there Fri-Sun. Military Wall most likely.
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lena_chita
Moderator
Mar 19, 2008, 6:36 PM
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granite_grrl wrote: granite_grrl wrote: I hit up both crags and climbs when I was in the Red last fall. Couldn't wrap me head around that blind move on Breakfast Burrito and I bailed. Kicking myself that I didn't go back for a red point after TRing it clean. I'm leaving for the Red tonight for a 5 day weekend over Easter. Breakfast Burrito is going DOWN!
Have fun and good luck on the Breakfast Burrito! I want to get back on that climb, too. I fell on it at the end of an interesting and "excitement-filled" day. Note to self: Know when to call it quits! If you have smashed every single knuckle on both hands earlier in the day, they will be very swollen, and trying to crimp while clipping the last bolt will feel very painful. Duh!
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binrat
Apr 2, 2008, 1:05 PM
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Just got back from the red. Was down for 4 days of climbing. Rain every morning to start and all day for 2 days. I should have paced myself better as I was getting burnt by day 3. Great place to go when there is still snow at home.
binrat
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uptick
Apr 11, 2008, 6:10 PM
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Even in the rain, there are dry places to climb. Rain will keep the Chumley's away.
Supposed to precip this weekend and get cold. Should be great!
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