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camhead
Feb 29, 2008, 8:37 PM
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so, the other day, a spanish friend of mine and I went to go check out Epitaph. I'm nowhere near climbing that thing lol, but my friend was feeling pretty strong at the Creek, he just onsited Ruby's, and was going to try to fire the rig in one go.
It was an awesome day. But we got to the route, and there were fixed lines hanging all over it. What the fuck is this? Some lame ass probably aid climber needs to practice jugging I guess.
The ropes were in the way, and Tomaso couldn't even do the stems, the fucking ropes were hanging in the way.
This is fucking lame. We went and talked around at Pagan, and nobody knew about it.
Anyone know here about it?
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caughtinside
Feb 29, 2008, 8:50 PM
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Fixed lines are a very disturbing trend in modern climbing, and it's all about sponsorship dollars it seems, which is really sad.
There are just too many pros, pro wannabes, and heroes in their own minds that just have to have the sikkest tick to spray about, or want to turn classic climbs into their own outdoor gyms.
A little closer to home, the Cookie cliff and other spots have fixed lines all winter long, so people can just show up with the mini T and zip up and down with an iPod on all day. No need to waste time with a weak partner! The rationale is, it's the offseason, who cares.
Well I carez! The valley can be climbed year round and those ropes are in my way! I'd like to be able to lead Outer Limits without having to step around a line that's a foot from the crack!! LAME. GET A PARTNER AND LEAD IT.
Now on 4 pitch iconic routes. Pathetic. Some weak loser with dreams of Freerider is dangling on Playing Hooky. No, you don't get to rename a route that went free before you managed to eliminate one lousy hanging belay!!
Normally, I'd suspect DP of this sort of shenanigan, but he's already done it. Probably some other aspiring pro, without the cojones or the skill to work it on lead, like Katie did.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Iy42ndIUHrA
Watch that vid, and then pull those fixed lines! The crux has a big but safe fall. Let others experience the rock as it was meant to be experienced!
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dbrayack
Feb 29, 2008, 8:56 PM
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It was me, sorry.
I was soloing it and got bit in the eye by a copperhead - i lost the eye...and while down soloing, I got bit again on the other eye (which thankfully still works), but I couldn't see very well, so I fixed a rope and rapped. You can have it. and kill that snake for me (both of them)
(This post was edited by dbrayack on Feb 29, 2008, 8:58 PM)
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camhead
Feb 29, 2008, 8:58 PM
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yeah, I never thought it would be some toproper. i thought it was an aid climber jugger. but yeah, probably some wannabe.
it was really lame. Tomaso had to fly back to Asturias today, and he could have had a 3rd ascent on Epitaph.
oh, and this is in moab, btw. I forgot to mention earlier. lol
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angry
Feb 29, 2008, 9:13 PM
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Did you go up the route? I'd like to talk to you about some "details" if you did.
And CI, the rock doesn't belong to anyone, nor did you have reservations. First come first served.
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caughtinside
Feb 29, 2008, 9:26 PM
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angry wrote: Did you go up the route? I'd like to talk to you about some "details" if you did. And CI, the rock doesn't belong to anyone, nor did you have reservations. First come first served.
That's right, the rock doesn't belong to me or anyone. And if leaving shit all over the rocks counts as reservations I want no part of that.
Funny how supposed 'trad' climbers are so strict on some ethics, but so lax when it benefits them. Someone should clean those ropes. Kind of like the fixed pads in Chaos Canyon.
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angry
Feb 29, 2008, 9:32 PM
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Well, I will probably take down my fixed ropes in a couple weeks when I get back to Moab.
Is that more or less impact than permanently and pointlessly altering a famous route? Or did Tomaso's onsight of Ruby's grant him immunity to do whatever he wanted in the desert?
Wanna know what I'm talking about? Ask Camhead.
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caughtinside
Feb 29, 2008, 9:38 PM
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angry wrote: Well, I will probably take down my fixed ropes in a couple weeks when I get back to Moab. Is that more or less impact than permanently and pointlessly altering a famous route? Or did Tomaso's onsight of Ruby's grant him immunity to do whatever he wanted in the desert? Wanna know what I'm talking about? Ask Camhead.
I'm not interested in your cryptic comments. I'm intersted in you removing your trash from the face of a famous and classic route.
It makes me laugh though, after years of comments from you how you onsight or send .12 cracks second go, how you've gone straight to taking the easiest way to fall up cracks that are too hard for you.
Bravo. I'm looking forward to the spray I'm sure we will all be subjected to when you finish wiring the route into submission.
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angry
Feb 29, 2008, 9:57 PM
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First off homo, I am not even interested in spraying you down on the Tombstone. That's not why I'm messing with it. I am messing with it because it's hard, fun, close to the road, and it's easy to stay in a hotel in Moab at night.
Also, who are you to talk climbing? Seriously, the only significant accomplishment in the sport you've pulled off is aquireing a set of offset nuts. Should I write Alpinist and tell them that a dude with a visor in Cali something cool on Ebay? Fucking HB.
Between the jeeps, the motorcycles, the cars, and the motherfucking parking lot right beneath the road, I'd think most reasonable people wouldn't expect a pristine experience.
As to my cryptic comments, you might be more interested if you were to ask Camhead and Tomaso what they were doing on a C2 with a hammer and hardware. Or why some of my ropes were no longer connected to the bomber anchors but were still up, attached to old school mank that's probably held on by mud and bat spit.
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camhead
Feb 29, 2008, 10:31 PM
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So, are those your ropes, dude? Seriously, that is not cool. I would of given you a belay.
Climbing is spiritual to me. The fixed ropes take away from the experiance, plain and simple. I'm still fucking pissed.
as for the anchors that your roeps were on, they WERE bomber. Just not yours. Much worse would have happened if you had pulled shit like that in Spain. You wanna leave ropes on the wall? Then pay the price, asshole.
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angry
Feb 29, 2008, 10:46 PM
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camhead wrote: Climbing is spiritual to me.
camhead wrote: as for the anchors that your roeps were on, they WERE bomber
camhead wrote: Much worse would have happened if you had pulled shit like that in Spain.
camhead wrote: You wanna leave ropes on the wall? Then pay the price, asshole.
Spoken like a true religious man. "Mess with my spiritual and you deserve to die." Fuck that shit.
Regardless of whether or not you've got a problem with fixed lines, you've got some stuff to answer for. What's the deal with the brand new drilled angles protecting the non-crux?
And do I need to mention it again, you nearly fucking killed me!!!1
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caughtinside
Feb 29, 2008, 10:49 PM
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Oh come on. You can't seriously expect us to believe camhead was banging pins up there. You need to have your head examined.
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majid_sabet
Feb 29, 2008, 10:52 PM
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camhead wrote: So, are those your ropes, dude? Seriously, that is not cool. I would of given you a belay. Climbing is spiritual to me. The fixed ropes take away from the experiance, plain and simple. I'm still fucking pissed. as for the anchors that your roeps were on, they WERE bomber. Just not yours. Much worse would have happened if you had pulled shit like that in Spain. You wanna leave ropes on the wall? Then pay the price, asshole.
Fixed ropes are generally set by experienced climbers especially during winter for training where some climber may suffer from lack of having partners.
Many of these guys will remove them when the right time comes so you should just leave them alone. Last thing you want to post some sh*t on-line and inform them whole world about their locations.
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angry
Feb 29, 2008, 10:57 PM
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I'm not saying Camhead did it. I am saying that I was on the route the 23rd, 24th, and 25th. Then again on the 28th.
This photo was taken around 2pm yesterday. Those drilled angles were not there the prior days.
I'm guessing his Euro bonemaster did it but he allowed it to happen.
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camhead
Feb 29, 2008, 11:18 PM
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I just clicked on that link. apparently this angry asshole thinks its cool to fix lines and spray on the internet about it. are you kidding me or what? I can't believe you posted that shit, and then expect some of the world's best climbers to just take it like the little man you are.
and, you can bitch about drilled angles, and altered anchors WHEN YOU SEND THE FUCKING ROUTE! And when you get in magazines. You are a fucking whiny little bitch if you can't handle jugging on ropes that you can't see their anchors.
I repeat, Tomaso WOULD HAVE SENT it if there had not been fixed lines. That is a fact. THAT IS THE BOTTOM LINE! If you don't believe me you can ask, well, Cedar, or Didier, or Micah, or any one a a whole bunch of very good crack climbers that climb HARDER THAN YOU, and know Tomaso, asshole.
I'm going to email him about this. He may not respond for a while since he's you know OUT SENDING hard shit, you fucking snivelling little fucking worm. I'm sure you never even came close to doing the moves on epitaph fuck this shit I'm out of here.
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curt
Mar 1, 2008, 3:08 AM
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ASDF and pffffft 
Curt
(This post was edited by curt on Mar 1, 2008, 5:19 AM)
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pyrosis
Mar 1, 2008, 3:28 AM
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So if it's dick to leave fixed ropes hanging on a classic line, what is it to add drilled protection to a classic line?
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potreroed
Mar 1, 2008, 4:36 AM
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So why didn't Tomaso just remove the offending ropes and send the route???
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zeke_sf
Mar 1, 2008, 4:42 AM
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pyrosis wrote: So if it's dick to leave fixed ropes hanging on a classic line, what is it to add drilled protection to a classic line?
pussy?
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billcoe_
Mar 1, 2008, 5:34 AM
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potreroed wrote: So why didn't Tomaso just remove the offending ropes and send the route???
Nice question. Maybe it was too technical to get up them ?
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miavzero
Mar 1, 2008, 6:04 AM
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Reminds me of the time when my Dad pretended to be at odds with our neighbor so the two of them could go on a "reconciliation" fishing trip.
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organika
Mar 1, 2008, 6:15 AM
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what was exactly added to the route and where?
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jason1
Mar 2, 2008, 5:00 PM
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what's a five letter word for pins that shouldn't be there.... why i think it's booty!
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areyoumydude
Mar 2, 2008, 5:50 PM
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caughtinside wrote: Normally, I'd suspect DP of this sort of shenanigan, but he's already done it. Probably some other aspiring pro, without the cojones or the skill to work it on lead, like Katie did.
That's funny, she seemed to be TRing it when I saw her up there. Still a bad ass send.
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