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gand5000
Mar 4, 2008, 3:58 AM
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Registered: Mar 4, 2008
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Hey all. I've been lurking for a little while here, decided to finally register and post. I'm heading to Colorado Springs here in the next couple weeks for a weekend on spring break. I'm craving rock right now. I'm looking for bouldering or sport climbing in the 5.7-5.9/10 range--love the area, Co. is maybe my fav. state ever. But I don't know about the climbing near the Springs, since I'm relatively new to the sport. I remember Garden of the gods has some climbing. I heard Shelf Road has a lot of climbing options too. I just climbed my first crack and loved it, so cracks are a plus. Anywhere else good? How far is Shelf Road from the Springs?
Proximity is a definite priority--we're only taking one car, and only 2 of us climb, the other pair is probably going to take the car to see the parents/in-law (they're a newly fiancee'd couple). So close is good, although it is conceivable that I could rent a car for a day to reach some place significantly far from town.
Thanks in advance,
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climbingaggie03
Mar 4, 2008, 4:16 AM
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Do you lead Trad? Most of the Garden of the Gods is trad, although if you can handle some runouts, there are some good 5.6-5.8 routes.
Shelf road is a good ways from the springs (couple of hours) But there is quality sport climbing in red rocks open space which is near garden of the gods.
Anykine knows the area better than me, but that's my 2 cents.
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thewyseclimber
Mar 4, 2008, 4:36 AM
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Shelf Road is a little over an hour from the Springs, with more sport @ 5.10 and below than you can possibly climb in a year, on solid and interesting limestone (and maybe the occasional soft grade...). The camping is choice, and this is about the best time of year to be there. I have climbed there in all parts of the year, and I love the rock, the scenery, the routes, and the place. Garden has some nice climbs, but often lousy rock, plus tourists. Red Rocks canyon has a few nice climbs, but pretty slabby and dirty, in my opinion, but in a nice quiet setting. Bottom line, if you want 5.10/9/8/7 sport close to the Springs, go to Shelf. You'll thank yourself later. PM me if you would like more specifics.
(This post was edited by thewyseclimber on Mar 4, 2008, 4:47 AM)
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gand5000
Mar 4, 2008, 5:19 AM
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climbingaggie03 wrote: Do you lead Trad? Most of the Garden of the Gods is trad, although if you can handle some runouts, there are some good 5.6-5.8 routes. Shelf road is a good ways from the springs (couple of hours) But there is quality sport climbing in red rocks open space which is near garden of the gods. Anykine knows the area better than me, but that's my 2 cents.
Appreciate it. No, I don't lead trad--no rack. I'm a poor college kid for now. Besides, I'd kinda like to feel comfy leading at 5.10+ before going the extra mile for all the necessary trad gear.
Where is the red rocks open space in relation to gotg? Or, how would you get there?
(This post was edited by gand5000 on Mar 4, 2008, 5:49 AM)
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charley
Mar 4, 2008, 6:05 PM
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I would suggest red rock open space. It is kinda right across the road from GOG. It is close to town and you can get the guidebook at rei and maybe other places. There is sport starting at 5.7 maybe 6 and up to pretty hard. The rock is soft red sandstone and some holds have broken but there is alot to do. It also has two walls facing each other so you can chase or hide from the sun a bit. There is a bit of info in the routes section on here. Have fun.
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endercore
Mar 4, 2008, 6:23 PM
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red rocks is on the left side of highway 24 on your way from the springs towards manitu springs / woodland park.
you have to get a free permit from the garden visitor center to climb at either red rocks or the garden. You can buy the red rocks book for super cheap at the visitor center too. Either of those options are probably your best bet because they are pretty close to town. The quality of rock at shelf is 100 million times better but it is a bit of a drive as it is near canon city.
there is also some stuff near cheyenne canyon.
(This post was edited by endercore on Mar 4, 2008, 6:25 PM)
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