|
treemonkey
Mar 4, 2008, 5:58 AM
Post #1 of 22
(1810 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Nov 27, 2006
Posts: 76
|
Why is it you never see Sharma trad climbing, he is always bouldering or clipping bolts?
|
|
|
|
|
c22
Mar 4, 2008, 6:07 AM
Post #2 of 22
(1797 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Dec 19, 2004
Posts: 195
|
He's done trad, it just seems like no one cares for some reason.
He definitely crushed the fuck out of the moonlight buttress and The excellent adventure variation up the Rostrum.
|
|
|
|
|
erick
Mar 4, 2008, 6:14 AM
Post #3 of 22
(1780 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Aug 12, 2005
Posts: 191
|
some people like different styles more than others.
if you wanna follow some inspiring trad climbers, check out some of what sonnie trotter has been up to. he's hit up some absolutely sick trad lines.
|
|
|
|
|
Rufsen
Mar 4, 2008, 11:43 AM
Post #4 of 22
(1690 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Jan 8, 2008
Posts: 126
|
Dave Macleod
|
|
|
|
|
sungam
Mar 4, 2008, 12:00 PM
Post #5 of 22
(1678 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Jun 24, 2004
Posts: 26804
|
James Pearson. Check out his route http://www.ukclimbing.com/news/older.html?month=2&year=2008#n42441
Absolutely ridiculous moves. if you go to the hotaches link then to the climb link, you can DL a bit of footage.
He was also the first person to flash font 8B, which he has now done 3 times.
-MagnuS
|
|
|
|
|
jimo
Mar 4, 2008, 12:09 PM
Post #6 of 22
(1673 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Apr 21, 2005
Posts: 79
|
THere is a clip of him leading trad in the King Lines DVD 5.12- What they didn't show was him and his partner burning at the top...
|
|
|
|
|
zwillia1
Mar 4, 2008, 12:46 PM
Post #7 of 22
(1645 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Sep 15, 2007
Posts: 92
|
TROTTER! sonnie is so cool man. .14d trad. thats insane. also, really cool guy. (never actually met, but spoken through emails a couple times). also, im pretty sure tommy caldwell has done some pretty legit trad stuff... the dude freed el cap twice in a day, so he's got my vote.
|
|
|
|
|
treemonkey
Mar 4, 2008, 4:38 PM
Post #8 of 22
(1509 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Nov 27, 2006
Posts: 76
|
Yea trotter is the shit. But there is so much hype over Sharma
|
|
|
|
|
clemsonscooby
Mar 4, 2008, 5:17 PM
Post #10 of 22
(1411 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Dec 21, 2006
Posts: 190
|
Why ruin a professional climbing career because you got on trad that was too hard and took a nasty fall... Trad doesn't push the edge of climbing like sport and bouldering can. Its just so much harder to climb 5.14 trad. There are a lot better climbers in the world than Sharma as well. Look at how he does in international competition, i.e. Arco Rock Master.
|
|
|
|
|
dreadlock
Mar 4, 2008, 5:19 PM
Post #11 of 22
(1406 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Mar 11, 2002
Posts: 51
|
Chris Sharma and Tommy Caldwell(whom I think is one of the best all around climbers out there) are some of the nicest pro climbers you'll ever meet. Those guys don't spray about themselves that's the media and others hyping their accomplishments. There are alot of hard sport climbers out there that also trad climb, like Yuji Hirayama or the Huber brothers Alex and Thomas for example.
|
|
|
|
|
dta95b7r
Mar 4, 2008, 5:41 PM
Post #12 of 22
(1340 views)
Shortcut
Registered: May 20, 2007
Posts: 74
|
treemonkey wrote: Why is it you never see Sharma trad climbing, he is always bouldering or clipping bolts?
|
|
|
|
|
sticky_fingers
Mar 4, 2008, 5:44 PM
Post #13 of 22
(1325 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Jun 17, 2003
Posts: 420
|
There's a climb featured in the new "50 Classic Climbs" that Sharma is doing trad...don't remember what it was, but it had a little roof.
|
|
|
|
|
corson
Mar 5, 2008, 12:20 AM
Post #14 of 22
(1196 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Oct 16, 2005
Posts: 193
|
And Matt Segal, The stack bro's., Decaria, Wright,etc,etc. Lots of strong guys plugging gear!
|
|
|
|
|
deltav
Mar 5, 2008, 12:23 AM
Post #15 of 22
(1185 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Sep 29, 2005
Posts: 597
|
Sharma is so over rated...Sonnie Trotter is the man. Check him out climbing Cobra Crack 5.14d.
Caldwell's pretty BA too.
|
|
|
|
|
camhead
Mar 5, 2008, 12:30 AM
Post #16 of 22
(1166 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Sep 10, 2001
Posts: 20939
|
whoa, thiis thread has gotten really stupid!
1. clemson guy, if your comment was meant as a troll, bravo. otherwise, you don't know what you are talking about.
2. the climb in 50 favorite climbs that Sharma was on was the Alien variation of the Rostrum.
3. Wright is NOT in the same category as Segal, DeCaria, and the Stacks...
4. I don't think that Trotter ever gave Cobra Crack 14d
this thread just made me dumber.
BALH
|
|
|
|
|
sungam
Mar 5, 2008, 12:35 AM
Post #17 of 22
(1153 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Jun 24, 2004
Posts: 26804
|
There's some footage of him trying rhapsody on committed as well. I guess it's considered harder than cobra but whatever. I stipp reckon JP's route is fucking razz, though.
-MagnuS
|
|
|
|
|
dynosore
Mar 5, 2008, 3:50 AM
Post #18 of 22
(1100 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Jul 29, 2004
Posts: 1768
|
clemsonscooby wrote: Why ruin a professional climbing career because you got on trad that was too hard and took a nasty fall... Trad doesn't push the edge of climbing like sport and bouldering can.
Uh, if all you care about is somewhat arbitrary grade numbers on 50 ft routes. How many sport routes are on El Cap, Cerro Torre, Trango Tower?
|
|
|
|
|
cchas
Mar 5, 2008, 2:24 PM
Post #19 of 22
(1000 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Jun 9, 2005
Posts: 344
|
I find these arguments funny as shit. You get a bunch of people who say that so-in-so is a "sports climbing wussy" (maybe not your words but definately your thoughts as percieved by the posts), whereas the guy has led trad routes in his first couple of weeks of leading trad that you could never get on top-rope (Excellent Adventure-5.13a- I believe was like his 10th trad lead).
and I've heard the alpine comparision shit way too often, but hate to say it, these sport climbing weenies are taking it to the bigger routes, Gullich on Trango Tower, Caldwell has done an "interesting" route in Patagonia......
you guys crack me up 
(This post was edited by cchas on Mar 5, 2008, 2:26 PM)
|
|
|
|
|
bigfatrock
Mar 5, 2008, 2:44 PM
Post #20 of 22
(976 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Aug 2, 2006
Posts: 1321
|
I think I saw him climbing Snake Dike last year, I'm pretty sure it was him. He was smoking a J before the start of the climb. I was too nervous to go talk to him though.
|
|
|
|
|
zwillia1
Mar 6, 2008, 1:26 AM
Post #21 of 22
(833 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Sep 15, 2007
Posts: 92
|
i think people need to just stop talking about who's overrated and who's not. every professional sport has their share of people who demonize the best, but really... if someone is good, really really good, and THEY don't compare themselves to others, in what way can you see fault in his or her actions? have you ever heard sharma compare himself to anyone, saying he's better than so and so? for that matter, have you heard those words leave lynn hill's mouth? or trotter or graham or whoever? if someone is really good, they deserve credit. end of story. people demonize sharma like he's "overhyping" himself. The only people hyping him is us.
|
|
|
|
|
|
